I have been working on an M-4A3E8 w/ the HVSS suspension,and the 105 mm howitzer.I am using the Dragon POA CWS H-5 kit,which is a combo flame thrower/105 howitzer tank as used in Korea.
My Hunnicut book shows the M-4A3E8 (105) with the HVSS,so I decided to go smoke free,and just make it go



BANG!


I used hex styrene rod in predrilled holes,to simulate the bolts attaching the suspension mounts to the hull.


I will add the support rollers after the painting is mostly done,I have masked off the areas where I will glue,to avoid having to scrape paint.



This is a simulation of hinges for the exhaust air deflector.



These white tubes,from round styrene rod,are a necessary detail.They represent the holders for the caps for the headlight electrical connectors.

Looks nice Carl. There is also a small chain on the little white tube that holds the cap so it doesn't get lost. I beleive aber has a small enough PE chain available is you are feeling in the mood. :-)

Tanks,John. I have some fine chain.I intend to use it after painting,since it is the right color

Looking great Carl

Hey Carl! Looking good. Have you thought of using some fuse (or brass) wire glued in small drill holes for the foul weather attachment pins on the glacis MG? Leave them long, then trim them to size later... They come up well, especially as I haven't seen any aftermarket products containg this
I like the hex rod idea!
where did you get the foundry numbers for the trans. cover?
Brad

Ahhh,the thigees would be like snaps.Yeah I can do that.
The casting numbers are by Kendall Model Company (KMC I dont know if it is still available.I have more of them to add.I use a smear of Elmers white glue to tack them in place,then i flood with a drop of super glue.

Well it's almost paint time.The turret is all assembled,I do have a few more details to add.


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Great Carl! The fun is almost ready to start...
On the turret, is that a smoke grenade port at front left? Did they have them, or was it just a Dragon turret from another kit?
Brad

Before I paint,I will check The Hunnicutt ( amen).I think the 105 howitzer tanks had the launcher,I was thinking about that too as I was putting in various details...

Hi Carl:

Two details if you are interested:

The differential housing casting marks should be on the underside in the center. The markings were moved about halfway through the production of the earlier single-piece housings, probably to present as clean a ballistic surface as possible.


The hull lift lugs were actually castings with flared feet welded to the hull, not bent round bar in sockets.


KL

For my casting numbers,I am running from a picture I have,in Crismon I think.Also I will check to see what the weld bead looks like on the lifting hooks.Alllthese special areas will get putty prior to painting.oh,BTW mine is the HVSS version.
I am thinking of making it Korean era,since the kit supplies the metal chevron track,not the T-66. (++) (++)

Check the diff hsg shape in the photo. If it is a so-called "sharp beaked" type or has the double tow lugs, it is an E8543, like on the kit. If it has markings up on top it probably has single lugs and is the earlier E4186 housing.




All the M4 and M4A3(105) tanks were built by DTA, with the HVSS ones the last of the bunch. If you find a hull image for one it's generally good for all.

Have fun,
KL

Green





Now a night of roadwheel painting.

Out of the entire process of constructing a model, i have to say painting roadwheels have got to be the more mundane task but one of the more essential ones seeing as weathering occurs most down there and probably catches the eye the most.

Painting roadwheels is zen like for me,very relaxing,Ommmmmmmmmm (++) (++)

You know you are almost done,when it climbs on a pile of skeleton sprue stuff...







The requisite MV Lens.Thats a Hudson and Allen Tow Cable,in an Eduard clamp

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Tonight I started the heavy mudslinging.I am using my favorite base,Hudson and Allen "MUD"
It makes a nice heavy mud,when mixed slightly with water.SO I am using it as the undermud.




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Very nice Carl