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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
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My opinons on modelling zimmerit (long post)
ericadeane
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Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2005 - 04:29 PM UTC
Modellers of German AFVs know that this is a complex technique to tackle and sometimes we face it with fear or dread. In 1/35 scale, we are offered the following ways to zimm our tanks:

a) pyrograuve

These are our own applications with some putty (miliput, Zimm-it-Rite, Squadron, Tamiya Polyester, etc.) in combination with one or some of these:

b) screwdriver
c) stamps (homemade or R&JProducts, etc)
d) combs (Tamiya)
e) roller tool (AFV Club)
f) or other homemade tools

Finally

g) add-on resin aftermarket sheets (Atak or Cavalier) or resin aftermarket replacements parts (VP and some others)
h) PE zimm sheets (Eduard & Tamiya)

My own attempts have left me unsatisfied. Why? Because they generally looked clunky when compared to wartime photos. I sought lots of advice and read many articles and DG posts. Here are some of my conclusions and the directions that I'll take in the future. The following apply to the common "horizontal ridge" pattern or the Panther "vertical ridge" pattern. (We know some stamped types on StuG IIIs and other complex types were seen occasionally.)

1) What was on the real examples? I examined the photos some generalities were present. The ridges were almost completely of uniform width (of course, some irregularities existed in the application process). Secondly, the distance between the length of one ridge to the next was uniform and regular. Lastly, the ridges were usually straight and didn't curve off.

2) What were the tools used? I'm unaware of any factory photos showing the application process. There are Panthers with freshly applied zimm but we don't see tools laying around. From the regularity of the patterns, I've considered these three items: a ridged stamp, a toothed trowel or a toothed roller. These would all yield an equal length ridge and the distance between one ridge to the next would be uniform.

I think it's safe to eliminate the idea of a long stamp. Why? Because a trowel or roller would be so much easier. (We're pretty confident that stamps were used with other patterns (waffle, eg.)) If anyone has ever seen people apply adhesive on a floor before applying the floor surface, you have an idea of how a toothed trowel would be used to apply the wet zimmerit, how it was smoothed out, and then a ridge pattern could be left.

But the uniform length of the ridges and their straightness would point to the fact of a roller. It would be easy for a toothed trowel to make long and curvy ridge patterns. I'm unaware of this being evident. This leaves me to believe that the zimmerit was applied and evenly thined out with some sort of trowel device and then a roller gave it the final pattern. Rollers would yield 1) regular width, 2) uniform distance between ridges and 3) "straight" ridges (with no curve off).

Make sense? Remember, these are huge tanks and not 8" models I'm speaking of. Ever climb onto a Panther or King Tiger? They are enormous. The job to smear zimm on these beasts was quite a task.

3) How do our model methods compare? Well, if we are trying to replicate the look of a roller applied zimmerit, here are my thoughts (These are my opinions only. Sorry if I'm killing one of your sacred cows):

a) pyrograuve: from a distance, looks acceptable. Upon closer examination, the irregularity is too much compared to photographic evidence. Thickness doesn't look right at all. The least convincing method IMHO.

b) screwdriver: too much irregularity like pyrograuve. Also tends to pushs piles of putty around rather than "stamping" down

c) stamps (homemade or R&JProducts, etc). If done carefully, can be made to work. Can't rush it though if you're trying to depict the real thing. Don't let piles build up at the egde of your stamping.

d) combs (Tamiya). Useable if carefully done. However, the recommended method of dragging the comb for 3-4mm and then jinking up or down for the next column creates a very unrealistic, curling "tail" at the end of your ridge pattern. Also, you can't have overlapping ridges (since you're combing into new wet putty) as was fairly common .

e) roller tool (AFV Club). In combination with some other tools, this is probably the best way to make the regular patterns, especially on the large flat surfaces.

f) or other homemade tools. I'll off to find the right gear like the AFVClub tool. I hear it's just a simple RC gear. I can even go for one for my 1/16 Tiger II if I get a larger gear. Grind them down to the correct width. Voila. Homemade rollers.

g) add-on resin aftermarket sheets (Atak or Cavalier) or resin aftermarket replacements parts (VP and some others). The pattern makers seem to have used the comb method with its "tails" on several examples I've seen. Check individual samples. Seam filling is added chore.

h) PE zimm sheets (Eduard & Tamiya). Too regular. No damage can be done. Also application requires seam clean up. Might as well make it yourself.

Conclusion: Get a roller of some sort and probably the Tamiya applicators for the hard to reach spots (AFV Club's handle has a small ridged comb). Use your favorite putty (Milliput, Tamiya Polyester, Zimm It Rite, etc.) and go for it.

Roy
MonkeyGun
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England - North East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2005 - 04:49 PM UTC
Excellent post Eric

I remember my first attempt at adding zimmerit on a Tamiya Tiger and i still wake up in a cold sweat thinking about it
I tried the small flat bladed screwdriver with milliput which , looked ok on the large flatter surfaces (but as you say it ended up with raised ridges all over} and attempting to get a decent effect around the gun mantle , and the glacis plate was a nightmare. But lesson learnt , I decided to model allied arnour instead :-)
rfeehan
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Kansas, United States
Joined: July 20, 2003
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Posted: Friday, August 26, 2005 - 03:30 AM UTC
Buying that AFV club applicator is nearly impossible I tried everywhere I could think of on line and currently have one back ordered for weeks with someone and they can't seem to get it. Very frustrating.

Any idea where this could be gotten? By that I mean a mail order shop that actually has stock of them.

I like the idea of making rollers from gears (I think an old FSM article discussed this years ago actually) but what would be a good source of gears? RC cars perhaps.

Good post.
dsmith
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Joined: August 22, 2003
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Posted: Friday, August 26, 2005 - 03:42 AM UTC
If you are looking for an AFV Club roller, I think Winston from [url=http://www.wingsntreads.com/[/url] has some. He's a nice guy, great to do business with.
ericadeane
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Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
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Posted: Friday, August 26, 2005 - 08:16 AM UTC
Mutiple methods: I agree!


Looking at some other comments and references to various photos, I'm in agreement that there were definitely multiple methods -- including using an individual bladed tool to make the pattern. I just examined some period photos of a Jagdtiger and its pattern is clearly NOT done by a toothed trowel or roller.

Ah well... so much for my general pronouncements! LOL Bring on the screwdriver!
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