This build is lightly weathered. (in the future I plan to put it in a winter dio with whitewash but I won't do that till I get the groundwork finished.)

Painted with a basecoat of Model master Olive Drab AnA 613 then an oil wash followed by a light coat of MM Faded olive drab. The turrent tie downs are made from wire. the canvas is scratchbuilt from tissue paper. And the Tracks are from Tamiya's M4A3 Sherman. The markings are all stenciled on with an airbrush.. I used very few markings as most pics of M-10 seem to have very basic markings.

I'll be the first to admit that this isn't my best work. I was trying some different OD painting techniques and the color seems to be a bit off.

The track grouser's might or might not be used for the dio as about half the pic's of M10's have them missing.. and as for stowage well that will have to wait for the dio too someday... for now its finished. or as finished as a kit ever gets.... LOL









build notes

Hi delbert,I like it good build, bit clean for my tastes but when you winter it up it should look great. is that a aftermarket barrel or the kit one, I put a barrel depot one on mine I agree about the markings I checked all my references and couldnt even find one with a registration number, any way nice model.

Thanks John.. and its a bit clean even for me but I left it that way so future modification will be easy.. which is also why theres not much stowage.. LOL

The Barrel is the kit one.. I have a pretty good technique for getting rid of those darn seam lines and have a light touch so I don't flat spot the barrel doing it..

First I get rid of all locating pins.. then I hold the parts together and brush plastruct liquid cement down the seams.. when It dries I lightly sand the seam down.. use more plastruct.... sand some more.. then use a polishing stick to finish it off...... comes out pretty good if I say so myself...

and if you think the M-10's are a little shy on marking's.. take a look at pics of the M-18 Hellcats.. each one has enough markings for a platoon of M-10's. they were afraid that with the new suspension on the M-18 they would be mistaken for german tanks...

Nice looking build Del..I can imagine how long it took to do all those tie downs...


Dave

Looks great Delbert Are the ammo rounds plastic or brass?

Yeah the barrel looks great I guess Im getting old and impatient those tie downs are nice give us a heads up on how you did them

thanks for the nice comments fellows. the one thing I really enjoy and I'm sure many others do is the feedback from fellow model builders that know how much work really goes into these.. guys at my work place are stunned when I tell them a build took more than a few days...

Chad...

the shells are the plastic kit ones.. painted with Model Master Brass Non-Buffing Metalizer. I really like the line of Model master Metalizers both buffing and non buffing.........

John

the tie downs were fairly simple. I checked my wire stock and the 32 gauge wire (if i found the right coversion formula its about 0.27 mm) seemed to be the most in scale with the kit.. so I used that..

I sanded off the moulded on tiedowns (totaly nonfunctional on the kit..

even after polishing I could barely see the outlines of where the tie downs were so I used that as my pattern.

used a micro drill to drill holes through the sides for the tie downs...wire just barely fit in the holes... broke about 4 micro bits in all.. lol

marked the with of the tie downs I wanted on a pair of surgical pliers and used them as my bending brake (or form) using another pair of pliers to get the bends sharp..

put the wire all the way through and used thin superglue on the inside to glue in place.. once glue dried I nipped off the extra wire and sanded as best I could..

I got the main idea to do it this way from this Armorama feature..

Modelling Tie-Downs by: Paul Owen

although I did do mine a little differently as I didn't use the strechted spruce plugs. And I needed extra care for the inside as that area could be seen a bit on the finished model..

also mine are not exactly what they mostly look like on the M-10 but I thought that close would be better than the ones that came molded on..