Hi, I am trying to help a fellow ethusiast gather up some photos of this hard to find recovery vehicle. If anyone has some to email or knows of some good web sites I would love the intell. If you don't know what one is here is a site.. .http://www.m578-recovery.nl/ Thanks again.

Were you aware that Verlinden makes a conversion for this? I just stumbled across it this morning then I saw this post. Kind of odd that such a rare vehicle and I would see two different deals on it in one day.

http://www.verlinden-productions.com/vp_htm_1801_2400/2163.html

I have a few photos I took in my motor pool: https://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?set_albumName=albun63&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

There are several sets of M578 pictures on Prime Portal:
http://www.primeportal.net/recovery/recovery_home.htm#M578

I've got a set on Full Metal Jacket but it's tied to AMPS so you can't get in unless you are a member. I can send them via email though.

Paul

Thanks Guys, These are great!

try alltheweb.com

click the pictures tab

then search

good search engine

reb

Jeff................check your p-m's


aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

Steve, have you got either some close up shots or drawings of the hydraulic cylinder for the spade? I did the Verlinden conversion and like you, separated the two halves of the blade, but I neglected to put in the cylinder that raises and lowers it.

From where I think it attaches at both ends (spade and chassis) it doesn't appear that it can be a two piece strut, as when it's long enough to reach extended, it's too long to close all the way. Is it a three piece strut by chance? I've got a complete Tech Manual, but for some reason there is no picture of the strut.

Tom

I have the T-M ........my spade actually "works"----e-m me and I will send you a copy of my "mini-video" ---that might help explain---worked out action of my spade from the exploded view in T-M....also had vehicle to get basic sizes from........... will add to this post (here) when I get the "figure" on with action
aye
Barv
(GOSMG)
Atatchment................................

( barv)

I can see from you sketch what I haven't done. I incorrectly assumed the cylinder attached to the hull as it does on the howitzer version, and when I cut the blade so it opens, I did not put on the "ears" on the part of the blade, (part "24") where it attaches.

What will help a lot is to know (approx) where to locate the attachment point on the blade (angle w/respect to the blade itself). While the exact distance off the blade where the attaching holes are is also important, the are going to wind up being where the are based on what I can actually "make".

Am I correct in reading your notes that the cylinder is actually collapsed (shortest length) when the blade is open?

Tom

Tom....have shot new video clips........e-mail to-night 2130 UK..........YES ...piston closes------spade opens ......like a scissor -type action between "Y " arm and piston off-set on locations on "anchor" plate
BTW.......my spade and all parts are scratch-built from "sheet"
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)
PS.....If any -one has still got a copy of my original vid-clip ...could you please send me a copy .....barv

Real ......COOOOOOL!!!!!!!!-------thanks for that........ ---builds in real time ---Mmmmmmmm!!!! :-) :-) :-)
Love it ...............
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

You are hard corps!!! I did mine the old fashioned way. I took a small coping saw and actually separated the cast resin blade in the Verlinden kit into two pieces!

Won't be doing THAT again anytime soon!!!!

Tom

Tom.......... Had no options .....no kits around 10years ago when I decided to build this...........hope that the video has helped....again thanks to Marcel for the posting of my "vid-clip"...................
Jeff will e-m as soon as I get it all together..........
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

Yes, the video clips and the stills have helped tremendously!

What is going to make this especially difficult for me is that I'm going to be "grafting" this on to an already completed kit, which doesn't actually have ALL the features on the resin that are shown in the line drawings. So not only do I need to make the cylinder, I have to add on the two places to attach it.

At this point I am really not going to take apart what's already there, so I'm going to have to add it on somehow.

I don't know if you have it, or can get it, but one thing that would really be helpful to know.

What are the lengths as measured from the two different attachment points of the "collapsed" strut, and of the "extended" strut?

As I looked at my kit last night when the blade is "open", it appears that the "collapsed" length between the two places I would be attaching the strut seems to be quite short. I'm thinking what I need is a "cylinder" open on one end with an attachment on the other, into which I would insert a "rod" with an attachment on the other end.

When "collapsed" (pin all the way in to the cylinder) the length between the two attachment points has to fit between to two attachment points and it looks to be pretty short from one end to the other. (Maybe 4-5 mm?)

About how much distance are you measuring?

Tom

Tom..........will try to find my "hand sketches"....taken off the actual vehicle ......will e-m you
Q......?? Distance between pivot points of piston .in open and closed positions???...OK
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

Thanks, Steve!!!

YOU 'DA MAN!!!!!!

Tom

Tom.........still hunting for drawings------measured model .......open 18"........closed 12"-14"---as near as I can get------basicly sits in place of the "solid" block on lower spade(artil)
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

Sounds about right. That would make the size on a 1/35 scale model about 1/2 inches in the open configuration and about 3/8 inches in the closed if I'm reading your numbers right.

It's small, but "proportionally" it works. (The extended length can't be more than twice the collapsed or the two pieces pull apart, and the collapsed can't be less than half the extended, because they "bottom out".)

This helps a lot!!

Tom