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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Varnishes
umustb
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: April 27, 2005
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Posted: Friday, September 02, 2005 - 05:13 PM UTC
What are some of the Varnishes that should be avaliable in our LHS?

And which would you recommend?
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Friday, September 02, 2005 - 05:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

What are some of the Varnishes that should be avaliable in our LHS?

And which would you recommend?



I havent used many i have to admit as i tend to stick to one if it works for me. Im currently using the Humbrol Satin Gloss as a varnish to seal the base coat and decals on my armor.
mpalao
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Madrid, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: June 19, 2005
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Posted: Friday, September 02, 2005 - 11:35 PM UTC
Hi, the varnish application is by airbrush or by brush?
It's necesary to thinned or no?
If the application is by brush, what is the brush type to use?
Thanks
umustb
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Monday, September 05, 2005 - 01:35 AM UTC
Thanks for the reply Jeremy..

I think Miguel has some good points there.. I'm rather new to "sealing" my builds... so maybe someone can enlighten us here on the purpose of varnishes.
lordQ
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Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: June 21, 2004
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Posted: Monday, September 05, 2005 - 01:44 AM UTC
i tend to apply it by airbrush.

It gives a nice smooth result without brushstrokes.
I use the 0.6 mm nozzel for this kind of work. Don't spray from to close, it will flood your work with varnish and ruin your work.
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 12:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi, the varnish application is by airbrush or by brush?
It's necesary to thinned or no?
If the application is by brush, what is the brush type to use?
Thanks



I used a brush in the past to apply the varnishing but like paint, it wont give you an even surface like an airbrush does.

You can use an airbrush to spray the varnish on but word on the street is to thin it or else that will be the last time you use your airbrush. It seems turpentine is the key ingredient for the thinning process.

As a rule of thumb, you never spray your model at close range as the varnish / paint ends up running.
Easy_Co
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 06:07 AM UTC
Every one is talking about this Future or Kleer floor sealer it seems the best gloss varnish never used it myself I use an acrylic from the local hardware store I have one gloss one matt it doesnt have Model on the title so its much cheaper but it works for me.
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 06:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Every one is talking about this Future or Kleer floor sealer it seems the best gloss varnish never used it myself I use an acrylic from the local hardware store I have one gloss one matt it doesnt have Model on the title so its much cheaper but it works for me.



and you apply it using an airbrush or just a paint brush?
Erik67
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Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 10:23 AM UTC
Kleer is applied with an airbrush. Don't need to thin it either.

Erik
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 11:25 PM UTC
And if you need a flat coat, you can mix future with a flattening agent (like tamiya's). To get a dead-flat finish, 1 part flattening agent to 3 parts future was suggested in FSM. I experimented with brushing that on (as I don't have an airbrush) but it left white residue due to the high amount of flat agent. I think that mix should be airbrushed instead. Mixes with lesser amounts of flat agent works great when brushpainting.

This future / flat agent mix also mixes very easily before painting. The two parts separate as with humbroll varnish, but shake the container a couple of times and it's perfectly mixed. Stirring separated humbroll varnish requires a hefty stick and elbow grease.

My search for the right varnish hasn't been easy...

I have used revell's enamel varnish. Works well, but dries a little satin.
Humbroll's varnish in tins is similar to revell's. I advice to stay away from the varnish in the glass bottle, as the flatting agent separates and is very annoyning to mix again.

I've also tried Vallejo's both varnishes. Model color stuff dries quickly, does a flat coat, but isn't very durable and makes the color somewhat duller (or is it just my eyes?)
Game color is similar, but a little better.

The most recent varnish I've tried is Xtracrylix. This stuff seems great! It's sold in large bottles (100ml), which is good. Mixes easily, and is easy to brush on. Works great.

I've also tried microscale's gloss varnish too. Good stuff, but must be brushed on carefully to prevent bubbles. I think this would be best airbrushed. Otherwise a good varnish.
mpalao
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Madrid, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: June 19, 2005
KitMaker: 243 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 09, 2005 - 09:58 AM UTC
Thank you for all answers. All this information is very important for me. Thank you.
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