Quick (and probably simple) question for the experts........I have a few tank builds in process which have either wire mesh or photo-etch grills over the exhaust covers. When I have gone to prime and/or air brush them I have found that some of the squares in the mesh clog with primer/paint. I was left with taking a needle and poking the holes clear before it dried but that was a royal pain (and I'm sure unnecessary).
Is there any thing I can do (preparation, technique, etc.) to avoid this from happening?
Thanks in advance.
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Airbrush Problem On Mesh / Photoetch Grills
Scy33
Virginia, United States
Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 10 posts
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Joined: December 08, 2003
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Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 02:42 PM UTC
GunTruck
California, United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 5,885 posts
Armorama: 3,799 posts
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 5,885 posts
Armorama: 3,799 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 03:10 PM UTC
Without knowing the type of paint, airbrush & other circumstances surrounding your experience - I'd recommend thinning your paint mixture and reducing the air pressure.
Tell us more about what paint you're using and your settings - I'm sure other members here will jump in to assist.
Gunnie
Tell us more about what paint you're using and your settings - I'm sure other members here will jump in to assist.
Gunnie
Scy33
Virginia, United States
Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 10 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 10 posts
Armorama: 10 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 03:16 PM UTC
Sorry.....when painting, I was using Tamiya Acrylics with Tamiya thinner. Spraying at roughly 30 PSI with roughly a 1.5:1 thinner to paint ratio. When spraying primer, it was straight out of the store-bought can (white plastic primer from Rustoleum). Thanks again.
GunTruck
California, United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 5,885 posts
Armorama: 3,799 posts
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 5,885 posts
Armorama: 3,799 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2005 - 04:14 PM UTC
Okay...
I think the Rustoleum Primer you're using is too thick. I like to use Tamiya Acrylics for priming (XF-1 Flat Black or XF-2 Flat White) - thinned at least 50% with Lacquer Thinner. I don't recommend this if you're not used to it - fumes and all. I use it because it cuts down the thicker Tamiya pigment and gives me a smooth finish in the end.
Many other modelers use other mediums to thin Tamiya Acrylics instead of the Tamiya thinner. I always recommend you check out their results - mine too naturally - to see if that is what you're seeking before investing in different products.
When I thin Tamiya Acrylics, I don't go beyond 80% (8 parts thinner to 2 parts paint) because this mixture is too thin. It results in "creep" - the paint sprays down so thin that it pulls away from corners and edges as the thinner evaporates. However, after some practice in control, you can create some interesting effects with "creeping" the paint.
As Tamiya has changed its paint formula over the years, I find my thinner to paint ratio somewhere close to 70%. I've never experienced clogging the finest brass mesh when thinning to this ratio and keeping the PSI between 15 and 20.
Hope this helps you.
Gunnie
I think the Rustoleum Primer you're using is too thick. I like to use Tamiya Acrylics for priming (XF-1 Flat Black or XF-2 Flat White) - thinned at least 50% with Lacquer Thinner. I don't recommend this if you're not used to it - fumes and all. I use it because it cuts down the thicker Tamiya pigment and gives me a smooth finish in the end.
Many other modelers use other mediums to thin Tamiya Acrylics instead of the Tamiya thinner. I always recommend you check out their results - mine too naturally - to see if that is what you're seeking before investing in different products.
When I thin Tamiya Acrylics, I don't go beyond 80% (8 parts thinner to 2 parts paint) because this mixture is too thin. It results in "creep" - the paint sprays down so thin that it pulls away from corners and edges as the thinner evaporates. However, after some practice in control, you can create some interesting effects with "creeping" the paint.
As Tamiya has changed its paint formula over the years, I find my thinner to paint ratio somewhere close to 70%. I've never experienced clogging the finest brass mesh when thinning to this ratio and keeping the PSI between 15 and 20.
Hope this helps you.
Gunnie
twells
New York, United States
Joined: March 31, 2002
KitMaker: 76 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Joined: March 31, 2002
KitMaker: 76 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Monday, September 05, 2005 - 04:29 AM UTC
I often paint the grills off the model if possible. I will put the grill on a piece of double sides tape, spray the grill and wetaher it on the tape. Once I pull the grill off of the tape - the sticky tape will pull any paint from within the mesh grill leaving a clean mesh appearance. I the use elmer's white glue to attach the grill depending on where it is going. Dullcote or flat varnish has no effect on the mesh once sprayed (won't clog the holes).
Just did a basket on the Tamiya Leo 2A5 (in place) and had good results with the tape thoughtricky to get in place while the basket is affixed to the plastic parts -
Just did a basket on the Tamiya Leo 2A5 (in place) and had good results with the tape thoughtricky to get in place while the basket is affixed to the plastic parts -