I'm painting a Revell F-86D's under carriage...
painted the standard Zinc green and covered w/ Future...
2 days later, I washed w/ thinned oil mixed w/ turpintine.

PROBLEM.
My wash came out THICK, like Thick glue on my parts...
when I tryed to clean up using a Q-tip made from sponge...
all it did was "collect" a GEL type glob of paint, oil and turpinoid..
"WHAT HAPPENED...."

Are my techniques wrong?

Or is it something else....

Maybe the turps were too strong?? I only use Humbrols enamel thinner for washes. A little more expensive, but you never have to worry about this happening!

Sounds like you have an incompatability with your thinner and paint. Are you using artist's oils? If so, I swear by Windsor and Newton oils, and also their turpentine. The turps is very expensive but you can buy the small bottle and that goes a very long way. Hardware store grade turps and thinners usually don't work out very well.

As mentioned by the others it has something to do with the turpentine. I use minieral spirits and so far I have no bad experiences...

Cheers

I've always used Hardwarestore thinners and white spirits. Never had this problem.

Tobar,
What type of paint did you use?
Tom

Hi Thomas,

From a chemical viewpoint I can tell you that what happened is that your turps (solvent) dissolved a coating that you had applied previously. As some suggested, thinners can vary a lot. Those intended to clean brushes and so forth will contain a good proportion straight chain (or normal paraffinic) solvent, those intended as thinners will contain mostly branched chain (or iso-paraffinic) solvent. Straight chain solvents are more aggressive and tend to redissolve previous coatings particularly if they are not fully cured. Stay away from these as thinners for diluting paint especially in washes.

What puzzles me is that even straight chain solvents should not cause the mayheim you described if the model was sealed in Future. Future is an acrylic coating and once cured it is rock solid and impervious. At the risk of offending you, which is far from my intention, I would say that either it was not THE Future that you used, or somehow it had not cured properly maybe due to high ambient humidity or perhaps the coating was patchy.

The last thing is the paint underneath the sealant. Was it an enamel? This should not have mattered if you had a complete coating of Future, but if not, the wash would have redissolved the paint especially if it had not had time to fully cure or if the solvent was straight chain. If your paint was acrylic itself, again it should not have reacted to the wash.

Does this make sense to you? I have access to a wide variety of solvents at work and I use a variety in modelling, depending on the effect I am looking for.

My latest discovery is a brilliant paint stripper for acrylic paints on plastic or resin. Takes all the paint off in two coatings and washes off with water to leave the plastic pristine ... the product is Easy Off Oven Cleaner from Reckitt Benckiser!

Cheers,

I hope it turns put well for you,

Mario

Thomas:

As others have stated, it could be an incompatability problem between the turpentine you used and whatever coating was on the model. Also, you may have not given the Future sufficient time to cure (at least 24 hours but longer in humid conditions).

For oil washes I use exclusively Windsor Newton artist oils. They are more expensive, but a tube will last forever! Also, I use Turpenoid as the thinner. It is also more expensive, but think of the cost in time and money of the model you may have irreparably ruined. I have also used Naptha (lighter fluid) as a thinner and it works also, but the fumes are bad. Turpenoid has no smell.

Never use any solvent based wash over enamels or lacquers, only acrylics.

HTH

Definitely sound like incompatable paint and thinner. For decades I have used acrylic paint and denatured alcohol. Never, had a compatability issue and I am able to reproduce a number of wheather results with this wash. One other benefit - the mixture dries quickly and I have never had the wash "melt" anything.

Were you using FSM latest bete noire the sludge was expecting to wipe off the excess later? Not a good thing.
First thing to remember, a wash should be applied where uyou want it and allow capillarry action to draw it out. Test your wash before you apply it. It should draw out along a sharp edge or panel line. Doing this will eliminate the need to wipe off excess and will give you the right consistency every time.
I use dollar a gallon DIY thinner with either oils or enamels right on acrylics and enamels with no problems. Just remember NOT to drag the brush across and you're golden.

Thanks Everybody for your 2-cents...
I looked into my bottle of Turpinoid...
For some reason it was thick.. like a liquid vaseline....
I recently moved, and I think something had mixed with my bottles because I remember they had dropped and I think thinner, PT or Lacquar , spilt onto some bottles......

I'm glad that all this advise will stay on the form for futher reference....

By. the way .... I just glued my F-86D, gear up and hung it from the celling in my sons room ... He liked the Alclad paint job on it...

Problem solved....