Hosted by Darren Baker
same old Sherman
Marlowe
Ontario, Canada
Joined: June 12, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Joined: June 12, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 03:23 AM UTC
I'm new at posting photos so bear with me. Here are three images (in three separate posts) of my first serious attempt to create "realistic" effects using an airbrush. Having studied all the pictures of Shermans I could get my hands on, I wanted to make one that looked aged and weathered. I created the multitone OD effect by mixing dusty green (acrylic) with a couple of dark green shades (enamel) together. I call this "Old tank with new barrel" and more images can be seen in the Gallery of Track48. I used Hudson and Allen coniferous foliage, Tamiya accessories, Tarmac resin crates, Hauler PE, and Track48 resin open-spoked idler wheel. The aluminum barrel is by Armourworkshop/LionMarc Designs. Grand line bolts were used on the bogie assemblies.
DaveCox
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 11, 2003
KitMaker: 4,307 posts
Armorama: 2,130 posts
Joined: January 11, 2003
KitMaker: 4,307 posts
Armorama: 2,130 posts
Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 03:35 AM UTC
I'd rate this as a very good 1st attempt at this kind of finish. The colour may raise a few eyebrows but as an experiment in getting different effects I think you've done well. The main point that you do need to address is that the stowage on the rear deck (and probably the sandbags on the front) need some method of keeping them in place - rope or similar.
BTW, you can put more than one image in a post rather than create three seperate threads!
BTW, you can put more than one image in a post rather than create three seperate threads!
Marlowe
Ontario, Canada
Joined: June 12, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Joined: June 12, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 03:47 AM UTC
Thanks Dave. I decided originally not to use thread as rope or any other kind of tie down as it often looks awkward. That is why I used the metal band for a storage bracket and covered the boxes with a tarp. However, I have now added thread as rope to secure the stowage items. I have since re-done the front removing the box and jerrycan and covering the entire glacis plate with sandbags. As for the colour, the model itself is much more faded OD in appearance than comes out in the photo which has darkened it somewhat. For example, the red colour on the engine deck stowage bracket is in actuality a very realistic rust colour, it just doesn't come through in the photo. To understand the effect I was going for,refer to Concord Pubs. US Tank Battles in France 1944-45, p. 65 middle, for an idea of various shades of colour, dust, dirt, stains etc., and to The Sherman at War (2): The US Army in the European Theater 1943-45, p. 42 ,top, for an example of a dirt and dust encrusted transmission housing. I also studied the colour photos in Michael Green's M4 Sherman. I like, especially, the old M4A1 in Italy at the front of the book whose paint is so faded it is more light grey than green.
Marlowe
Marlowe
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 05:32 AM UTC
Thats a damn good looking Sherman there Glenn. I like the oil stains on the turret and the tracks! How did you end up creating the rust on the stowage?
Marlowe
Ontario, Canada
Joined: June 12, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Joined: June 12, 2005
KitMaker: 289 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Friday, September 16, 2005 - 06:07 AM UTC
My favourite way to create rust is to apply a base coat of burnt umber( enamel) and while it is still wet add an acrylic flame orange paint I get at a local craft shop. If I want the rust to look dry and faded, a reddish beige colour, I add a pinkish pastel powder to the mix and let dry. My philosophy of tank modelling is that the viewer should fell the need to get a tetanus shot just by looking at the model or its picture.
Glenn
Oil stains are created using dirty (diluted burnt umber) varsol or mineral spirits or turpentine. I also use burnt umber for all washes to create shadows and sand for highlights as these colours are less extreme than black and white.
Glenn
Oil stains are created using dirty (diluted burnt umber) varsol or mineral spirits or turpentine. I also use burnt umber for all washes to create shadows and sand for highlights as these colours are less extreme than black and white.