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Armor/AFV: Braille Scale
1/72 and 1/76 Scale Armor and AFVs.
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UM Reconnaissance Tank Sd.Kfz. 140/1 review
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 01:05 AM UTC
With most of the campaigns I enlisted in finishing up, I've finally had some time to work on reviews. Here is the Unimodels Sd.Kfz. 140/1 Reconnaissance Tank based on the Czech tank 38(t). Nice little kit that is better and cheaper than the Attack Hobby kit.

UM Reconnaissance Tank Sd.Kfz. 140/1
lanks
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 27, 2005
KitMaker: 8 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 - 10:02 PM UTC
Has anyone else had an issue with lining up the track runs especially btween the drive/idler sprockets and the main runs.
I have just acquired the Hetzer and new Marder 76r. Again very nicely detailed kits. I have started the Hetzer and although the box is labelled as the early version there are parts to make other variants.
There is a later mantlet, a differnent engine deck with later large suppressor exhaust, later type idler wheels and I think a flamm barrel as well.
Looking forward to building both if I can get to grips with the running gear.

Mark
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 06, 2005 - 12:30 AM UTC
That's normally a tricky part of building 1/72 scale link and length track. You have to ensure the road weels, sprockets and idler wheels all are along the same plane or else they will "drift" and not line up properly.
lanks
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 27, 2005
KitMaker: 8 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, October 10, 2005 - 01:32 AM UTC
I have now sorted my on problem and may be of use to others building this family of kits.
The way I have put the hetzer together in regards the tracks is as follows.
-Fit the bottom run as show on the instructions.
-Glue the drive sprocket halves together but do not fit to the chassis. Make a run of the individual links and while they are still pliable fit to the drive sprocket.
- Cut the length of the fixings for the drive and idlers by about a half. Fit the drive sprocket but do not glue in place.
- This allows for one of the solid track lengths ( part 11) to be fitted between the lower track run and the sprocket assembly and flexibilty to line everything up.
- Follow the same process for the idler.
- Glue the upper track runs together as one unit before adding to the vehicle. This should, as mine did, line up fairly accurately if the lining up as been done when fitting the lower run and the sprocket assemblies.

Hope this helps

Mark
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