Hi all,
My M1A2 is almost ready for paint, only still got to add tow cables to the turret...Some stowage is added already to the tank, more will follow!
I think I'm actually starting to like modern armour :-)
Time to get it painted and also time to build a small diorama!
Martin
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1A2 ready for paint
Martinnnn
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 09:37 PM UTC
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 10:49 PM UTC
Wow nice job. Its fully assembled already or can the tracks and all be removed??
Reason i ask is because im the type of guy that must paint all parts, even the parts that cant be seen so i tend to paint it only when the model is 80% built. Thats just the method to my madness though.
Reason i ask is because im the type of guy that must paint all parts, even the parts that cant be seen so i tend to paint it only when the model is 80% built. Thats just the method to my madness though.
Martinnnn
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 10:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Wow nice job. Its fully assembled already or can the tracks and all be removed??
Reason i ask is because im the type of guy that must paint all parts, even the parts that cant be seen so i tend to paint it only when the model is 80% built. Thats just the method to my madness though.
Hey
I've painted the wheels and lower hull already so I just gotta mask them and paint the rest of the tank. Weathering etc will finish the job The tracks look like they're all black on the pics but I painted them already as well, just gotta weather them
Martin
Vodnik
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 12:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I've painted the wheels and lower hull already
You should paint center hubs of road wheels black. In reality they are made of clear plastic, so that the level of oil inside can be seen. They usually look black from the distance. Sometimes they are slightly oversprayed with camouflage paint, but never fully as the level of oil must be checked regularly.
Pawel
Martinnnn
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 12:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI've painted the wheels and lower hull already
You should paint center hubs of road wheels black. In reality they are made of clear plastic, so that the level of oil inside can be seen. They usually look black from the distance. Sometimes they are slightly oversprayed with camouflage paint, but never fully as the level of oil must be checked regularly.
Pawel
Ok thanks for the tip, I'll do that! (it's not in the instructions)
GSPatton
California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 07:23 AM UTC
Martin
the "flat" surfaces of the M1A1 are covered with a non-slip coating before the paint is applied. A number of different methods can be employed - dissolved putty in the airbrush at high pressure, Mr Surfacer 500, white glue dabbed on with a stiff brush, or my favorite - yellow carpenters glue with model RR snow. this stuff is small round grannules and when mixed with the glue - thinned properly, can be brushed over the surfaces.
On the M1 almost all flat surfaces are covered, look at photos of the real tank and you will notice, around the drivers hatch the coating is not uniform and the area where the hatch swings is not coated.
Also, dont forget the steel wire spings that hold down the front fenders. A real simple add on -
the "flat" surfaces of the M1A1 are covered with a non-slip coating before the paint is applied. A number of different methods can be employed - dissolved putty in the airbrush at high pressure, Mr Surfacer 500, white glue dabbed on with a stiff brush, or my favorite - yellow carpenters glue with model RR snow. this stuff is small round grannules and when mixed with the glue - thinned properly, can be brushed over the surfaces.
On the M1 almost all flat surfaces are covered, look at photos of the real tank and you will notice, around the drivers hatch the coating is not uniform and the area where the hatch swings is not coated.
Also, dont forget the steel wire spings that hold down the front fenders. A real simple add on -
Martinnnn
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 08:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Martin
the "flat" surfaces of the M1A1 are covered with a non-slip coating before the paint is applied. A number of different methods can be employed - dissolved putty in the airbrush at high pressure, Mr Surfacer 500, white glue dabbed on with a stiff brush, or my favorite - yellow carpenters glue with model RR snow. this stuff is small round grannules and when mixed with the glue - thinned properly, can be brushed over the surfaces.
On the M1 almost all flat surfaces are covered, look at photos of the real tank and you will notice, around the drivers hatch the coating is not uniform and the area where the hatch swings is not coated.
Also, dont forget the steel wire spings that hold down the front fenders. A real simple add on -
Reference pics are welcome..... :-) Especially on the steel wire springs as I don't know what you mean by this, sorry!
Don't know about the non-slip coating, never done this before and as this is a model for a friend I want to be sure it's a good model. I don't think he knows about the coating anyway.....he was more than pleased with the model now already you see :-)
Still I am considering it...
Thanks,
Martin
GSPatton
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 10:04 AM UTC
Martin, if you go into my (my photo) you will see a photo of a USMC LAV in the water. This gives a good example of the texture. I will try to post other photos tomorrow.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 10:32 AM UTC
Adding the anti-slip coating is actually pretty easy. Check out my post on adding it with Rustoleum Texture paint.
Anti-slip Coating
Another question for you. Why do you put all the gear and weapons on before painting? Doesn't this make it harder to paint the details and keep crisp paint lines. It is much easier to leave them off and paint them saparately, then add them after with superglue. Same can be said for the track as well. Guess it is just a personal preferance on building/painting order. Seems like a pain in the a#@ thoug to do it that way.
Anti-slip Coating
Another question for you. Why do you put all the gear and weapons on before painting? Doesn't this make it harder to paint the details and keep crisp paint lines. It is much easier to leave them off and paint them saparately, then add them after with superglue. Same can be said for the track as well. Guess it is just a personal preferance on building/painting order. Seems like a pain in the a#@ thoug to do it that way.
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 03:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Another question for you. Why do you put all the gear and weapons on before painting? Doesn't this make it harder to paint the details and keep crisp paint lines.
Im guessing they were just placed on for this photo session?
Regarding the tracks on the abram, much as they look black in all reference photos, is the actual colour sort of like a metallic grey covered in sand? I left mine in black but wasnt too sure about this one.
Martinnnn
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 - 06:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Adding the anti-slip coating is actually pretty easy. Check out my post on adding it with Rustoleum Texture paint.
Anti-slip Coating
Another question for you. Why do you put all the gear and weapons on before painting? Doesn't this make it harder to paint the details and keep crisp paint lines. It is much easier to leave them off and paint them saparately, then add them after with superglue. Same can be said for the track as well. Guess it is just a personal preferance on building/painting order. Seems like a pain in the a#@ thoug to do it that way.
Thanks!
The gear, mg's, stowage etc are just on for the pics
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 - 02:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks!
The gear, mg's, stowage etc are just on for the pics
O.K., I have seen many people do it the other way (everything on before painting) and it just doen't make sense to me.
Quoted Text
Regarding the tracks on the abram, much as they look black in all reference photos, is the actual colour sort of like a metallic grey covered in sand? I left mine in black but wasnt too sure about this one.
The tracks are steel and rubber. The square blocks (pads) on the outer face and down the center of the inner side are rubber. The areas in between and the guide horns, triangular parts sticking up are metal. In a sandy environment, the metal parts get very ploished and look shiny. The rubber will look like dusty rubber. There can also be minor surface rust on some areas of the track, but very little in desert environs.
Martinnnn
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Posted: Wednesday, September 21, 2005 - 02:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThanks!
The gear, mg's, stowage etc are just on for the pics
O.K., I have seen many people do it the other way (everything on before painting) and it just doen't make sense to me.
Yeah I think it's much easier to paint the tank and the assecoires as much as possible!
Martin
M1A2sep1CD
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Posted: Friday, September 23, 2005 - 02:12 PM UTC
can one ask where the glass is in the vision blocks?
Martinnnn
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Posted: Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 03:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
can one ask where the glass is in the vision blocks?
I always add glass after painting, lot easier
Martin
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
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Posted: Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 10:44 AM UTC
I had this issue when i was building mine.
Would you be able to show us (when you do it) how you added the panels after painting?
Would you be able to show us (when you do it) how you added the panels after painting?
HeavyArty
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Posted: Saturday, September 24, 2005 - 12:26 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I had this issue when i was building mine.
Would you be able to show us (when you do it) how you added the panels after painting?
My guess is that the commander's cupola is not glued down. Then you can simply remove it and place them in from the bottom.
I blank the periscopes off with sheet styrene and then paint them black, put on a thin coat of clear (stoplight) red, and finally a couple coats of gloss. This makes them look like they are caoted with the anti-laser red film that is on actual optics. The clear lenses don't look realistic to me at all.
Jurgen
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Posted: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 - 09:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Reference pics are welcome..... Especially on the steel wire springs as I don't know what you mean by this, sorry!
I think he meant these ones....
hth