What is an appropriate way to weather hatch bottoms. I rarely see models with open hatches and black and white photos are little help. I assume that they collect some grime from dirty hands pushing them open..?
Thanks,
Andrew

This may sound really stupid but wouldn't the inside of the hatch cover likely be the same as the outside?? If it was lets say white, and u had your hatch open wouldn't that be asking for trouble. (I know if you had your hatches open you were probably in a safe spot anyway)

bison, you are right, but Oberst is asking about weathering them. I would use the regular wash and drybrush, but followed with some fairly heavy pastel dust to simulate the grit and grime you want, Oberst.

Nic

The concept of painting the exposed surfaces of hatches is dependent upon the desired result of the selected exterior scheme. Assume the vehicle is painted green to blend in with the operational environment. The interior is painted white to take advantage of ambiant light through vision blocks, interior lighting and any open hatches. An open hatch painted the interior color would negate the intended purpose of the exterior color scheme. A vehicle painted sand or other light color would not be as susceptible to having its exterior color scheme compromised by an open hatch painted a light interior color. When you speak of hatches I assume you are refering to TC loader and driver hatches. Escape hatches located in the floor are painted the same color as the floor. If you have to use the escape hatch in combat it's too late to worry about what color it is. While we are assuming, don't assume that hatches are open only in safe areas. While it's prudent to button up when assulting a heavly armed position it's not prudent nor practical to do so when reconning an area or traversing known ambush sites. Vision blocks can limit your ability to detect and respond to enemy activity. In areas where mines are deployed it's safer outside the vehicle rather than in it.
Do the interior side of hatches get dirty? Not to the degree you would would think. They do get worn however mostly from somebodys butt sitting on it. Hatches that expose the interior side are usually difficult to walk on and do not tend to be located in heavy traffic routes. How about pushing them open will that get them dirty? Most horizontal hatches I'm aware of have some kind of counter balance or spring assist to open them. This also helps keep the damn hatch from giving you a good whack in the head if your hand slips. They're heavy. They dont stay shut unless latched so to open them you have to grab the latch, unlatch the hatch and hold on when it pops open. Even hatches with no assist are usually pushed open with what your holding on to. As with everything else, there are exceptions so if you want to model a dirty hatch do a little research and determine how the hatch would have been normally opened.
Good question though. While your at it why not detail the latch mechanism if one is not provided or maybe redo a molded on latch to be a little more realistic?

Wow ARMDCAV, what a lenghty response.
I am talking about the radio operators and drivers hatches.
I have painted the underside the base color of the tank exterior, dark yellow.
Your point that the hatches were counterbalanced or spring assisted is one that I forgot although I shouldn't have as these springs are included. The hatch undersides are reasonably well detailed and are for a Panther G. They are quite simple and as I can see require no real additions.
I assume that you are suggesting minimal weathering to these hatches because they were not frequently in contact with dirty hands or boots?
Thanks for the responses,
Andrew

I'm no German armor expert by any means but I believe that the driver and the assistant driver/ hull gunner hatches are the rotating type? or were the hatches on the G different?. If the rotating type they lift up and rotate around to stops or hold downs. I'm not sure of the interior color but as far as walking on and greasy hands? If the rotating type the interior side couldn't have been walked on and I believe that there was an interior operating lever to raise and rotate the hatch. Could be wrong here but if so the operating lever would have been the primary method. The top or exterior probably got walked on, a lot though.
Some of my post do tend to be 20 dollar answers for 5 dollar questions but I do try to make my responses usefull.

Herr Oberst:

A couple ideas on weathering inside surface, I assume of "flip-back" hatches.

There will be chipped paint around the edges, the square edges catch everything catches them, rings on fingers, personal gear etc, plus paint on edges is fragile.

Second is dirt, grease and body oils from crew members - take my word - tanking is dirty business To replicate the dirty hands handiling the hatches and associated wear, use a Q-tip or similar item and rub around edge of hatch and locking handles, where handling, dirt etc, will smooth the paint. The paint will pick up a slight sheen compared to flat paint else where. Some graphite (pencil lead) can also be rubbed on handles and edges of hatches to reflect paint rubbed/worn completely off and the metal being rubbed underneath. Just be careful not to overdue the graphite.

Hope these ideas are helpful

Jeff

On the Panther G, the hatches differed from a Panther A as they opened like normal hatches, a M4 for instance. This would mean that when open, the underside of the hatch would face upward.
Thanks for the 20 dollar answer,
could I have another?
Andrew

[quote]On the Panther G, the hatches differed from a Panther A as they opened like normal hatches, a M4 for instance. This would mean that when open, the underside of the hatch would face upward.
Thanks for the 20 dollar answer,
could I have another?
Andrew

Followed my own advice and did a little research. Seems that the G had swing open hatchs and a periscope installed in the hatch and the drivers vision port removed from the front (can;t spell glaises).Almost impossible to open a rotating hatch with periscope installed. Had the same problem on the 48 with the drivers IR periscope. I would think with the periscope installed the drivers hatch would be a no step zone. Having been a tank driver, gunner and TC I know that there are certain things you do and don't do on a tank. Kind of crew etiquette. One of those would be keeping your GD muddy boots off of someone elses hatch and seat when getting in or on the vehicle. Slaming the hatch closed and getting a face full mud or dirt may cause you to wish bodly harm on someone.
As to your question about weathering, I do know that the interior of the hatches didn't get AS dirty as the exterior of the vehicle. The interior of the hatches wern't exposed as much as the exterior of the vehicle to factors of weathering such as fading, abrasion, spills and ground in dirt. Another reason the hatches are cleaner may be as I said before, open hatches make great seats.

The glacis plate vision port was removed but the rotating periscope is infront of the hatch and not on it. Other than that, your advice seems solid.
Thanks for the help,
Andrew

Well that figures. As I said I'm not a German Armor expert so I go by what I read. FSM did an article on panthers last month and it says in the article " the main features were the elimination of the drivers pop-up view port (relying on the drivers hatch with a periscope)". Which is correct I don't know. I'm building an ausf A from Italeri and had a few questions which I posted today. May build the G. I built an interior for my A and added radiators and fans where Italeri had just boxes to blank off the interior. Nothing spectacular or hard to do but adds a lot of depth to the model. The model was cheap (the money not the kit0 and using what I had in my parts bin, a little resin, I now have a more complete replica without spending a lot. Good work on your G I still need to weather my A and will use youe chip method.