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Dioramas: Buildings & Ruins
Ruined buildings and city scenes.
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how to make bricks
NateH
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Nebraska, United States
Joined: August 21, 2005
KitMaker: 8 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 01:17 PM UTC
I was just wondering what was the best way to make individual bricks from scratch. The scale isn't necessarily that important as long as they are 1/35 or larger, nothing smaller. Is there some mold I can buy that allows me to make several (possibly hundreds) of bricks all the same size? I'm creating an ancient roman diorama which will include arch's and walls built from scratch. I already experimented with foam. It worked okay but I didnt quit get the texture I was looking for. Any help would be appreciated.
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
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Posted: Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 02:03 PM UTC
Two main options - the first is cork. Head to Target or ACMoore or Walmart and get a roll of cork in the office or craft section.
Cut long strips off first, then cut the strip down into indi bricks.

Second way - is here
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/58

EDIT - 3rd way - Kancali (advertiser on the left) has a brick mold set you can look to purchase.
blockhaus
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Spain / España
Joined: July 04, 2003
KitMaker: 693 posts
Armorama: 682 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 07:46 PM UTC
about cork I use this metod:

cut strips of two mm. cork

cut in bits around 6mm

make a cardboard structure

glue the bits in this structure





hope this helps
CArlos
nato308
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Iowa, United States
Joined: October 23, 2003
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 609 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 09:59 PM UTC
Carlos has the monopoly on cork... Cork is a great source for bricks, stone, and other archietectural details it works very well. The down side with cork, you MUST keep with using a sharpe blade all the time! If you don't the cork tends to stretch, distorting the shape you want. Despite this, I use cork extensively for brick or stone.

Paul
redneck
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: June 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,602 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 30, 2005 - 02:56 AM UTC
I don’t know how well it would work yet but for a dio I’m working on I’m planing on cutting some out of plaster board.

You would need to remove the paper backing first then cut out the bricks and probably do a little sanding.

If you don’t want to cut out all the brick for a wall you could always cut a piece the size of the wall and simply carve it. Indenting the seams and roughing up the edges a bit.
exer
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Dublin, Ireland
Joined: November 27, 2004
KitMaker: 6,048 posts
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Posted: Friday, September 30, 2005 - 03:51 AM UTC
Roll out a sheet of plasticene to about 1/2- 3/4 cm thick cut it to the shape of your wall. Turn the plasticene sheet over. Now use a brick shaped object to impress whatever brick or stone pattern you want into the plasticene. I use different sized brick shapes carved from sprue. When you've finished making your pattern build a retaining wall around it. You now have a mould of the brick wall. Mix up some plaster of Paris adding a suitable brick colour, water based paint. Pour the plaster mix into the mould and shake it gently to make any air bubbles rise out. When it dries you can peel off the plasticene and there you have your brick wall. If you're careful you can reuse the mould a few times. The method is adapted from the book "Roy Porter's Model Buildings Masterclass" which is well worth getting.
tango20
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Delaware, United States
Joined: August 01, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 336 posts
Posted: Friday, September 30, 2005 - 06:24 AM UTC

Iam buy any standards in the same leauge as my friend blockhouse but i used this way recently and it seemed to work,gives you a few options.
Cheers Chris


As you can see from this pic i covered the foam in spakle with a pallet knife ..let it dry and then drew the brick work on with a pencil and a stright edge and scored the stone work in



After carving in the stone work i gave a very fine spray of Plasti cote Fleck Stone,let it start to dry and then messed about with it untill i had the effect that i wanted ,only give it a light spray though there is tones in the can ,it will last along time i would prastice on something else before you take the plunge ,hope this info helps Chris


As luck would have it the joint where the front of the bridge was joined and flares out in a way lent its self to what i wanted to create ,there are loads of bridges around here in Delaware very similar and they all seem to have these little spots where the water seeps through i .
What i did do was score around the bricks a lot more than the others giving that depth and relief spread some more spackle..like poly filla quick drying and with a pallet knife keep spreading it clean it off then do it again untill you get the effect you want.
When thats done i have to buy and paint about 16 figures and land scape it,i must be bloody mad...lol lol but i love it,even if it is 1am
tango20
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Delaware, United States
Joined: August 01, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 336 posts
Posted: Friday, September 30, 2005 - 06:30 AM UTC

Dear Blockhouse
What i ment to say in my reply post was iam not in any way in your leauge with regard building structures,though i had better get that in before i get ...a "what a cocky s--t you are Tango 20" .Fingers going to fast for my brain again....lol lol

Cheers Chris
Mojo
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 11, 2003
KitMaker: 1,339 posts
Armorama: 637 posts
Posted: Friday, September 30, 2005 - 01:30 PM UTC
Or, try this
Bricks

Dave
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