What techniques do you guys use to place tracks. I have made teh mistake of building teh tank hull and top gluing tehm together then trying to put tracks on (both rubber and linked). Doesn't work!! What happens when you need to fill in seams between hull and top when track already in place? Do you paint tracks seperatly and when washing you don't have access to parts of the track when already placed on teh undercarrige. As you can see many questions

Godfather - I always paint and mount my tracks after most of the tank has already been done. Depending on the design of the model kit (accessability) I leave off all the road wheels, idler, return rollers, and drive sprocket. This will allow you to slip on vinyl or link-to-link track runs in place easier and with minimal touchup. With practice, you'll get good at it.

http://www.guntruck.com/Resources/M45Pershing2.html

Gunnie

Depends on the kit. Some kits you can cement both upper and lower halves of the hull before you install the tracks. In some kits, though, I install the tracks before cementing the hull halves. Case in point with Dragon's M1A2 which doesn't use vynil tracks (link-to-length I think is what is called). I paint the tracks first, install, then install the upper hull half. Of course, I initially paint the hull bottom first. After that, install the skirts, mask the wheels and the tracks (with just plain paper), and paint the whole model.
In the kit I'm currently working on (Tamiya, M1A1), since the tracks are vynil, I could afford to cement both upper and lower halves, fill (if needed), and then paint.

BTW, I think you know this already, but there's an article here by Bob Lester which talks about installing linked tracks. Here's the link: https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/84

PS

Sometimes, I cheat. (I know, bad bad) Like in my 1/72 Challenger I (Revell Germany), I only installed the tracks that would be visible, leaving the top tracks off. The tank's skirt hides it effectively.