Hi Guys, just about to start on Revell's ex-Dragon JagdTiger, and I'm going to use Eduards PE set for it. I've also got the set for Italeri's Blazer ordered.

I've never used PE before, so any tips or hints on success with the stuff would be greatly appreciated.
Do all PE sets need anealing to start with ?
Whats the best method of part removal and cleanup?
Any other things I need to know ?
Thanks.
Tim

What does anealing mean? I guess they must not need it because I have never had problems with PE and I don't do anything special with it, other than making sure it receives a primer coat with the rest of the model.

Nic

Sorry, should be annealing.
I remember seeing a pic somewhere of a pe set being heated over a candle to remove some of the metal's surface hardening - annealing. I just didn't know if it was something that HAD to be done or not.
Tim

Hi!
Annealing is just to heat the pe part until it gets the red color, let it cool on the air (don´t put it under water) it is made to facilitate to fold it....
just my two cents$

Yea Im am trying pe on my next model too A marder III I am also going to do the verliden interior on it it should be a dandy.

Would annealing help then if you were trying to put dents in fenders or side skirts? Do you do it one piece at a time or with the whole tree of PE? And what do you hold it over the candle with, tweezers?
Thanks,

Nic

Using a scalpel is a good way to start to get the PE piece off the PE sheet....but trimming the PE piece was impossible with a scalpel. I tend to use a tiny pair of medical scissors and I was shocked how easily it was to cut PE with these scissors. With these scissors, it was like cutting a thick piece of paper. Here is my simple technique when cutting PE.

1, First tape the PE sheet and the particular PE piece you want to remove from the PE sheet to a piece of glass or mirror that you've laid on your desk top.The glass must be resting on a desk to deal with the high pressures from the scalpel. The Sellotape holds the sheet in place during cutting and keeps the tiny piece from flying away into the carpet etc.
2, Next, take your sharp Scalpel blade cut the PE piece from the sheet by pressing down hard till you cut through the tab holding the PE piece to the PE sheet. Now you have the piece roughly cut from the PE sheet...time to do fine trimming.
You could, as I mention, use a pair medical scissors to do fine trimming on PE but for smaller parts you can use a simple nail file held in a pair of needle pliers. Experiment with different things to see what you prefer.
Remember....Sellotape to the PE sheet when cutting smaller pieces to hold them to the sheet as you cut the attachment tabs....this will keep these pieces from falling through the cracks in your floorboards or into the carpet or shooting across the room.
When trimming PE try to place the PE piece away from the tips of the scissor blades and more towards the fulcrum or pivot holding the scissors blades together.

Annealing I find useless unless "bending" PE around a pin or tube whilst still hot.

Regards, Martin

PHEW:
Annealing is described as the following:
A heating and cooling operation implying usually a relatively slow cooling. Annealing is a comprehensive term. The process of such a heat treatment may be: to remove stresses; to induce softness; to alter ductility; toughness; electrical magnetic, or other physical properties; to refine the crystalline structure; to remove gases; to produce a definite micro-structure. In annealing, the temperature of the operation and the rate of cooling depend upon the material being heat treated and the purpose of the treatment.
In short: you apply a constant heat to a PE part (individual not tree) and "bend/alter" the part and allow to cool.
I don't EVER anneal PE as I say unless it is to create a "ripple" effect in the ABER PE Canvas; as in the FAMO canvas doors that I am working on now.

Thanks Martin, I mainly got the pe set for the radiator screens, and I'm not sure how many of the other bits I'll use - I'll see how the big bits go then make up my mind ( yeh, I know, no sense of adventure...... )
What's best for gluing the bits on - cyano or epoxy ?

So heating the PE is not a good idea for softening the part?

Damn I got a Italeri Crusader II tank and I have the 2 Eduard PE sets for it, and I wanted to dent and damage the sandshields, any suggestions?

I also have only recently started using photoetch. An Eduard set for the Italeri water tank truck. I use either superglue or 5 minute epoxy to glue the pieces done and also I use a curved blade in my knife to cut it. That way I just roll the blade over the edge of the part I wish to remove. A point though. I did originally have problems with the parts coming unstuck. So I washed the fret in metholated spirits and if you are inclined you can take a sip or two at the same time. This removes any oil residue on the parts and does not leave any residue behind.

Cliff (I'm a driver not a private)

You can anneal the parts you want to bend or add battle-damage to ie fenders but it is not necessary to do it to the whole tree: The annealing process only softens the metal enought to allow all sorts of bends and "ripples" in the metal.
Cyanoacrilate glue is best, but if you are new to PE it may prove to be wise to invest in an epoxy as the others say. 5 minute curing and no less is my advice.

Ok, next question:

wat is the best way to heat PE? I don't have one of those small torches so that is a no go, would a candle flame work?

A candle flame is fine but don't touch the part with the tip of the plame or you will "scorch" or burn the part leaving black "soot" stains. Place the item in a pair of tweezers and hold 1 to 2cm over a naked flame until it becomes HOT. You WILL see that the part changes colour slightly as the oily residues burn off and the part becomes hot. You will need to work quickly as the cooling on PE is rapid!!!
Figure out what you need to do first.