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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Mr Surfacer again
ACHTUNG
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 13, 2003
KitMaker: 266 posts
Armorama: 187 posts
Posted: Monday, October 10, 2005 - 02:30 PM UTC
Hi guys
just wondering
have u try MR surfacer as a premier for ur model ?
what is MR Surfacer 500&1000 really? and what other effects can u get other than Non-skid surface?

thks for ur help guys
Calahan
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Kansas, United States
Joined: October 09, 2005
KitMaker: 89 posts
Armorama: 85 posts
Posted: Monday, October 10, 2005 - 03:10 PM UTC
Think of Mr. Surfacer as paint with fine sand or powder mixed in with it.

I have experience with Mr. Surfacer 500 - that is the coarse(est) mix. It has the drying time of liquid paper correction fluid.

It works well filling in small pinholes and such. I also use it for creating textures like on ejection seat pads.

tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Monday, October 24, 2005 - 09:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

have u try MR surfacer as a premier for ur model?



No, I haven't used Mr Surface as a primer, but I know a number of aircraft guys that do. Its benefit is to produce a really hard surface coat that they can then buff to a really smooth finish while filling small surface scratches left from fine sanding at the same time.


Quoted Text

what is MR Surfacer 500&1000 really? and what other effects can u get other than Non-skid surface?



What is it? Exactly? Dunno, but it appears to be a plastic of some sort suspended in a laquer based carrier. The 500 and 1000 are relative indicators of the fineness of the mix with 500 being more coarse than 1000, but I don't know if it is mathmatically twice as coarse, if you see what I mean.

What can you do with it other than casting textures? An awful lot. I use it as a fine seam filler and to fill small pin holes in resin castings. I will paint it over a large area I am reshaping to act as both a filler and as an indicator of how the shaping is going.

As mentioned above, if you let it dry real hard (a couple of days) you can pretty much polish it to a high shine for any number of reasons.

I first discovered the stuff in the mid 80s and it has been one of my most versatile tools ever since.

Paul
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