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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
applying Zimmerit
champy
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:01 AM UTC
i have recently invested in the dragon 3 in 1 tiger late production and would like to give it a true to scale coat of zimmerit. i have used the milliput way and etch but these turn out to be overscale (milliput) and non exsistant (etch) i tried humbrol filler but it seemed to dry before i could get the desired effect!!!!! please help this is stopping the build of a very very nice kit

Cheers
Champy
crockett
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Ohio, United States
Joined: February 04, 2005
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 302 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:10 AM UTC
Well, I shared your opinion. So I decided to try the Francois Verlinden method, that is to burn the zimmerit into the plastic with a soldering iron. I've done it now on two late Tiger kits, and I feel it is great and is really easy to do.

I get a lot of feedback from modelers who are afraid to take the risk, but it is almost foolproof, if you can operate a paint brush, you can do this.....






If you are interested, obtain a 15W soldering gun and install the smallest conical tip available. Practice on scrap plastic. When you get ready to apply, mark out the vertical spacing on the hull/turret with a drafting pencil. your horizontal trough lines should be about 3mm long in scale...

Good luck,

Steve
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:30 AM UTC
Ive never built the Tiger before but damn this looks like a pain staking process. Almost as fun as painting track wheels.
pzkfwmk6
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: January 08, 2005
KitMaker: 456 posts
Armorama: 216 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:32 AM UTC
Try using Apoxie-sculpt, it is easier to use than milliput. Also cut down on the thickness of putty layer. The iron method is nice, but if you screw up, you just toasted a 30 to 40 dollar kit. It's also hard to replicate damaged zim with the iron method. Not knocking it, just giving advice.
Hohenstaufen
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:59 AM UTC

This effect was achieved using a thin coating of Squadron "Green Stuff" putty. I'm not saying it's perfect of course!
Hohenstaufen
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 10:01 AM UTC

Trying again!
warthog
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 10:39 AM UTC
If you are interested, I just use the Elmer's wood putty. and Tamiya putty..its cheaper and easy to apply and remove :-) . Maybe you could also post the result of your zimm so that we could also comment/suggest improvements...you never know, it might just be OK.

BTW, here is my zimm...

Before

After


Hope this helps...

Cheers
 _GOTOTOP