i have recently invested in the dragon 3 in 1 tiger late production and would like to give it a true to scale coat of zimmerit. i have used the milliput way and etch but these turn out to be overscale (milliput) and non exsistant (etch) i tried humbrol filler but it seemed to dry before i could get the desired effect!!!!! please help this is stopping the build of a very very nice kit
Cheers
Champy
Hosted by Darren Baker
applying Zimmerit
champy
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 103 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:01 AM UTC
crockett
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 04, 2005
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 302 posts
Joined: February 04, 2005
KitMaker: 370 posts
Armorama: 302 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:10 AM UTC
Well, I shared your opinion. So I decided to try the Francois Verlinden method, that is to burn the zimmerit into the plastic with a soldering iron. I've done it now on two late Tiger kits, and I feel it is great and is really easy to do.
I get a lot of feedback from modelers who are afraid to take the risk, but it is almost foolproof, if you can operate a paint brush, you can do this.....
If you are interested, obtain a 15W soldering gun and install the smallest conical tip available. Practice on scrap plastic. When you get ready to apply, mark out the vertical spacing on the hull/turret with a drafting pencil. your horizontal trough lines should be about 3mm long in scale...
Good luck,
Steve
I get a lot of feedback from modelers who are afraid to take the risk, but it is almost foolproof, if you can operate a paint brush, you can do this.....
If you are interested, obtain a 15W soldering gun and install the smallest conical tip available. Practice on scrap plastic. When you get ready to apply, mark out the vertical spacing on the hull/turret with a drafting pencil. your horizontal trough lines should be about 3mm long in scale...
Good luck,
Steve
jazza
Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:30 AM UTC
Ive never built the Tiger before but damn this looks like a pain staking process. Almost as fun as painting track wheels.
pzkfwmk6
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: January 08, 2005
KitMaker: 456 posts
Armorama: 216 posts
Joined: January 08, 2005
KitMaker: 456 posts
Armorama: 216 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:32 AM UTC
Try using Apoxie-sculpt, it is easier to use than milliput. Also cut down on the thickness of putty layer. The iron method is nice, but if you screw up, you just toasted a 30 to 40 dollar kit. It's also hard to replicate damaged zim with the iron method. Not knocking it, just giving advice.
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 09:59 AM UTC
This effect was achieved using a thin coating of Squadron "Green Stuff" putty. I'm not saying it's perfect of course!
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 10:01 AM UTC
Trying again!
warthog
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
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Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
Armorama: 1,080 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 10:39 AM UTC
If you are interested, I just use the Elmer's wood putty. and Tamiya putty..its cheaper and easy to apply and remove :-) . Maybe you could also post the result of your zimm so that we could also comment/suggest improvements...you never know, it might just be OK.
BTW, here is my zimm...
Before
After
Hope this helps...
Cheers
BTW, here is my zimm...
Before
After
Hope this helps...
Cheers