Looks pretty good. Nice rendition of a Paladin. A few things to make it better though.
First, the track. As you know, the track doesn't float above the road wheels like on the model. To fix it, superglue the top run down onto the 2nd through 6th road wheels. Place popsicle sticks between the hull and track to hold it down till it sets up. Spare track blocks are missing from the battery covers and front hull. These can be made from the spare track links in the kit. Simply cut apart into individual links and add them to the hull. Or you could add small pieces or square styrene to replicate their mounting points. I also like the replaced road wheel on the right side. To make it look even better, you could paint the hub and lug nuts sand to show that they are from the original vehicle as well. Road wheels and sprockets could use some more weathering as well.
.50 cal is in the pintle backwards. The pintle mount should angle to the rear, not forward. Pintle mount and cradle on the .50 cal should be either sand or dark green as well (could also be flat black), but not the same gunmetal as the .50 cal. Most of ours (3ID) were sand, like the vehicle since the mount and cradle stayed on them and only the weapon was taken off and stored in the arms room. I would take a few links off the belt on the .50 cal as well. It should fit inside the can, not hang out over the edge.
Some of your fuel/water cans on the turret sides are incorrect as well. The metal cans with the funky X with a square on them are WWII vintage US and German Blitz cans and are no longer used. New, plastic water cans can be found in the Tamiya Modern US Equipment set and would look much better.
Rust on the exhaust looks too orange. Try drybrushing with some brown and black to tone it down some. Could also use some screening over the exhaust outlet as well.
On the tubular housing on the right, front, turret face, it is missing the lifting handles and a small lift ring on the top. The handles in the kit are correct and the lift ring can be made out of thin wire wrapped around a sewing needle.
Could just be the pics, but the antennas look like thin wire and are kinked in spots. They would look better being made out of 0.20 styrene rod. It approximates the fiberglass antennas well. Antennas are in the wrong place too. The short digital antenna should be on the left side of the rear ammo box, while the long FM antenna is in the forward left position.
To make it more accurate, you could also add the extra plate over the driver's hatch out of 0.20 sheet styrene as well, then add the handles on top of it.
The travel lock shouldn't be open as far as you have it either. It only opens enough for the barrel to clear it and then returns to the closed position when stowed.
The tow cable looks to much like the rest of the turret to me. I owuld paint it steel , then some rusty/dirty brown colors.
Bilge drain hose looks good, but your outlet is too close to the side of the howitzer. It should be all the way over to the right side of the panel, on the flat piece next to the split line for the engine cover. The bilge hose then is in kind of a double L shape on its side. It comes out, angles roughly 90 degrees down, turns roughly 90 degrees out to the edge of the hull, then turns 90 degrees down and over the edge to dump.
Great job on the lower sliding ring near the mantlet cover, most modelers miss this.
Sorry for all the details and nit-picking, but I worked on these all the time as well and have been over them with a fine -toothed comb. I've built a bunch of the Italeri Paladins as well.
It looks good as is, but could be even better with the tweaks I mentioned. Little more work and it will be great.
