Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 07:29 AM UTC
Hi all,
Here are some new pics of my first RC project!
Unfortunately I found out the tracks aren't long enough to add the extra wheel for the Patton tank so my conversion from Pershing to Patton will not be 100% accurate. I just want that dozer blade on front of my tank!
Martin
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
Armorama: 1,423 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 07:52 AM UTC
Hey Martin, looking good!
Have I missed a post? When did you decide to convert the Pershing to a Patton, and don't you have to change the turret then? However, there must be somebody out there with some extra track links... To bad it is not a Leopard... Then you could have a my extra set of tracks for free. They are just collecting dust around the house.
Cheers
Erik
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 08:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Martin, looking good!
Have I missed a post? When did you decide to convert the Pershing to a Patton, and don't you have to change the turret then? However, there must be somebody out there with some extra track links... To bad it is not a Leopard... Then you could have a my extra set of tracks for free. They are just collecting dust around the house.
Cheers
Erik
Hey
Maybe I forgotten to mention it here at armorama lol.
The M46 is actually a M26A6.
Biggest differences are new transmission and engines.
Exterior differences are an extra (small) wheel next to the drive sprocket, a new 90mm barrel and some differences in the rear of the tank.
I want to convert my tank to a dozer tank. M46 patton tanks were sometimes fitted with M3 dozer blades. M26 Pershing weren't. So my tank won't be fully accurate anymore.
Oh well....more about fun than accuracy in my opinion
Martin
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 08:08 AM UTC
Are you changing the outdrives as well? The M46 Patton had the rear drive sprockets in a slightly elevated arrangement, that is why the need for the idler wheel so that the tracks didn't get wrapped up when in reverse. Funny, the M60 and M48 didn't have these so ya wonder why they actually felt the idler system was needed.
Also, the Patton had a different grill setup and exhaust and the turret remained the same. I would recommend the Pershing/Patton in action book by Squadron/Signal number 40. Great side by side comparisons of both versions!
Great ambitious project! Good luck!
Jeff
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 10:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Are you changing the outdrives as well? The M46 Patton had the rear drive sprockets in a slightly elevated arrangement, that is why the need for the idler wheel so that the tracks didn't get wrapped up when in reverse. Funny, the M60 and M48 didn't have these so ya wonder why they actually felt the idler system was needed.
Also, the Patton had a different grill setup and exhaust and the turret remained the same. I would recommend the Pershing/Patton in action book by Squadron/Signal number 40. Great side by side comparisons of both versions!
Great ambitious project! Good luck!
Jeff
Yes well I changed the position of the drive sprocket but the tracks aren't long enough then. So, not possible for the moment, I don't want to invest more money in the tracks for now!
I have plenty of pics and drawings but the signal book sounds very interesting. I might take a look, thanks for the tip!
The 3 main areas I want to change:
- The extra wheel (which is not possible for now..)
- The rear of the tank
- The 90mm gun (used the M26A1 90mm gun)
I'l take a look at the engine deck/grills as well. Just checking with the reference pics everytime I go to the next step in the instructions :-)
The dozer blade is also gonna be a challenge. But the biggest problem (space) is already solved!
Martin
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 11:53 AM UTC
Sounds like you're on top of things! Keep us updated with the photos!
Jeff
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 01:15 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Funny, the M60 and M48 didn't have these so ya wonder why they actually felt the idler system was needed.
Actually, the M48 and M48A1 had the rear tensioning idler. I don't know why it was subsequently deleted except that they must have done something to solve the problem.
Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2004
KitMaker: 67 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 03:05 PM UTC
I may be able to get hold of someone thats already cracked up some tracks, and may be able to get you some links... I wanted to ask him myself as I had a need for some of them myself...
HEY !(insert brainstorm - ain't it the right night for a storm of brains?)
How would you like the older metal-link tracks from a Leopard? If I can get spare links from him to stretch your Pershing set for my Leopard, I'll offer this set to you for the Pershing ones ya got.
Think about it...
WhiteWolf
WhiteWolf McBride
Ontario, Canada
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Monday, October 31, 2005 - 08:48 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I may be able to get hold of someone thats already cracked up some tracks, and may be able to get you some links... I wanted to ask him myself as I had a need for some of them myself...
HEY !(insert brainstorm - ain't it the right night for a storm of brains?)
How would you like the older metal-link tracks from a Leopard? If I can get spare links from him to stretch your Pershing set for my Leopard, I'll offer this set to you for the Pershing ones ya got.
Think about it...
WhiteWolf
Lol I don't understand
Please explain
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2004
KitMaker: 67 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 01:16 PM UTC
Ok... which do you prefer, the new Sherman Pershing type track, or the old pre-DMD tracks like on the Sherman, Leopard and Gepard?
Tamiya Sherman has 77 links, Pershing has 82, and the old Leo/Gepard has 87 (plus spares)
If you like the older track, I'll offer mine for your pershing track and a mild inducement. Should be more than enough to allow you to stretch the hull some to make the mod realistic.
If you prefer the new track, when I ask for some spare links for myself, I can ask for you as well, if you can figure out how many you need.
Make sense now?
WhiteWolf McBride
Ontario, Canada
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 - 06:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ok... which do you prefer, the new Sherman Pershing type track, or the old pre-DMD tracks like on the Sherman, Leopard and Gepard?
Tamiya Sherman has 77 links, Pershing has 82, and the old Leo/Gepard has 87 (plus spares)
If you like the older track, I'll offer mine for your pershing track and a mild inducement. Should be more than enough to allow you to stretch the hull some to make the mod realistic.
If you prefer the new track, when I ask for some spare links for myself, I can ask for you as well, if you can figure out how many you need.
Make sense now?
Yes but I don't understand why I should use old tracks from a Sherman, Leopard or Gepard. Aren't they different from the Pershing type tracks?
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 06:35 AM UTC
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Belgrade, Serbia & Montenegro
Joined: October 25, 2003
KitMaker: 1,217 posts
Armorama: 799 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 06:37 AM UTC
Martinn, this baby looks more and more beautifull each time i see it
Im gonna have to save some money to come abroad, visit you and drive it a little
Mirko
Be nice to your enemies, that will piss them off even more!
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 4,808 posts
Armorama: 1,069 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 06:39 AM UTC
Does it go forward
??
Looks very nice Martin!
One thing I'm not sure about, are those tracks links or just one piece?
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 07:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Does it go forward ??
Looks very nice Martin!
One thing I'm not sure about, are those tracks links or just one piece?
Well it are of course seperate pieces, otherwise driving would be difficult, but the tracks are already assembled for you.
So, just a quick dust coat on them and ready for action (much work on the tracks is useless, once you drive with it the paint falls off anyway
)
Mirko, you're very welcome. If I got money and time I may visit you once
Keep the coffee warm and the beers cold
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
Armorama: 1,423 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 07:14 AM UTC
Having fun building, Martin?
Looks like your project is going pretty well. My A6 is currently on display at work, and I have to demonstrate it to my collegues every day (with pleasure of course).
Have you had any difficulties in the build so far? I am curious to hear if the fittings are as superb as on the Leopard.
Cheers
Erik
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 07:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Having fun building, Martin?
Looks like your project is going pretty well. My A6 is currently on display at work, and I have to demonstrate it to my collegues every day (with pleasure of course).
Have you had any difficulties in the build so far? I am curious to hear if the fittings are as superb as on the Leopard.
Cheers
Erik
Having a lot of fun
Really, this is better than anything else I've build so far.
Pay attention people: DON"T EVER BUY A RC TANK
Cause once you've started, you can't stop.
Already saving money for a second one lol :-)
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
Armorama: 1,423 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 07:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Already saving money for a second one lol
Leopard 2 A6 (NL)...???
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 08:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Already saving money for a second one lol
Leopard 2 A6 (NL)...???
Ssst
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 29, 2003
KitMaker: 718 posts
Armorama: 684 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 08:04 AM UTC
Hello Martinnnn,
In order to make some room for the batteries and wiring, I would take the metal plate out that is used to house the DMD. Everyone that I know that has one has done this. It eliminated the binding of the cabling and keeps the cables from catching on top of the DMD.
Just My 2 Cents,
Tanks
Andy
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 08:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello Martinnnn,
In order to make some room for the batteries and wiring, I would take the metal plate out that is used to house the DMD. Everyone that I know that has one has done this. It eliminated the binding of the cabling and keeps the cables from catching on top of the DMD.
Just My 2 Cents,
Tanks
Andy
Thanks a lot for that tip!
I'm also gonna move the battery into the sound unit housing. Room enough in there, just gotta seal it "audio-safe"
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Virginia, United States
Joined: April 29, 2003
KitMaker: 718 posts
Armorama: 684 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 09:15 AM UTC
Martinnn,
Another little trick I used was to open up the speaker box and drill a hole centered in the rear and one in the front. This allowed me to run the cables from the engine through the speaker box as well as hold some of the excess wiring. Once I did this I had plenty of room for the battery in the designated place. The spring that attaches to the gun inside the turret is a little short and stiff resulting in a loss of gun elevation and depression. You can take the spring and gently stretch it, or take a replacement spring a little longer than the original (makes elevation and depression of the gun alot smoother).
Tanks
Andy
Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: April 26, 2004
KitMaker: 5,435 posts
Armorama: 2,762 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 10:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Martinnn,
Another little trick I used was to open up the speaker box and drill a hole centered in the rear and one in the front. This allowed me to run the cables from the engine through the speaker box as well as hold some of the excess wiring. Once I did this I had plenty of room for the battery in the designated place. The spring that attaches to the gun inside the turret is a little short and stiff resulting in a loss of gun elevation and depression. You can take the spring and gently stretch it, or take a replacement spring a little longer than the original (makes elevation and depression of the gun alot smoother).
Tanks
Andy
Well the engine cables are placed under the sound unit. They aren't the problem I guess.
Oh well, going to try to get as many stuff as possible in the sound unit
Should be able to save enough room to place an extra servo in the front of the tank to control the planned dozer blade
1/16th radio-controlled
1/35th static
Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 13, 2004
KitMaker: 67 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 - 02:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Ok... which do you prefer, the new Sherman Pershing type track, or the old pre-DMD tracks like on the Sherman, Leopard and Gepard?
Tamiya Sherman has 77 links, Pershing has 82, and the old Leo/Gepard has 87 (plus spares)
If you like the older track, I'll offer mine for your pershing track and a mild inducement. Should be more than enough to allow you to stretch the hull some to make the mod realistic.
If you prefer the new track, when I ask for some spare links for myself, I can ask for you as well, if you can figure out how many you need.
Make sense now?
Yes but I don't understand why I should use old tracks from a Sherman, Leopard or Gepard. Aren't they different from the Pershing type tracks?
Well... some seem to prefer the links from the old kits. Cleat pattern is still the same, but its styamped into a track shell/sheath... Here is the assembly steps from the Manual, and some pics.
WhiteWolf McBride
Ontario, Canada
