Hello all....I am having some difficulties with my Aztek A470 airbrush, so I am hoping to get some assistance from all of the experts out here. Before I ask my questions, let me briefly describe my set up.

I airbursh Tamiya acrylics, thinning 50/50 with Tamiya thinner, I am using the tan nozzle from the A470 set, have a moisture trap on my line from compressor to brush, and I work only with 1/35 armor. My difficulties lie within the following:

First, I am having difficulty in painting the green/brown camo on German armor....my lines seem either too wide, and sometimes seem two hazy on the edge. So, my question is, can someone please explain at what pressure they apply the camo and maybe more importantly, how far from the target do they hold their airbrush?? Or, once you depress the button, do you not pull it as far back (which I believe mixes the paint with the air). I have practiced and tried a lot, but I just don't get the results I am looking for.

Second, every time I depress the button, paint splatters out. Now, I know I am to start and end off the model, however I am planning on working on a 251 and the camo to be applied doesn't necessarily run the length of the vehicle, i.e. would be random lines that begin and end on the vehicle. Can someone explain what, if anything I can do to stop this initial splatter?

Thank you for any and all assistance!

Sounds like a worn seal - What I did was put the aztek in a junk drawer and went out and bought a Cresendo and a 150 and i could not be hapier

Maybe your nozzle has a problem, take it apart and check if its clean.

to back up what john said. i got myself a badger 150 after having troubles with my aztek nozzles and ab and i couldnt be happier, all the pieces can be easily replaced, and i can get very thin lines with tamiya acrylics( only paint i use for now). That is using medium head nozzle! i got nice lines on my camo pattern for my ambush pattern on my king tiger.

cheers!
Frank

I run about 25 lbs. pressure. and adjust the wheel until I just have to begin pulling the button back after pressing it all the way down. I have trouble controlling where I spray if I have to pull the button ALL the way back. Of course, how far I pull the button back determines how much paint goes out. In effect it is more of a rocking motion than an actual push down-pull back motion. Hope I did not confuse the issue to much.
capnjock

I am currently using an old Proffecional model of Aztek(1995). I have sometimes the same problems but they generally are due to lack of exercise:} Firrst I am not sure but as far as I remember the nozzle you use is for enamels, not acrylics. Try to use the black one. I also may recomend you to use enamels for finer and acrylics for wider surfaces. Always start to spray elswhere, specially on acrylics(because they dry faster so that they may spit more ofter)not on the model. I am generally using 2 bars(around 24-25psi) but it gets even finer around 1.5-1.4 bars. Range of fireing depends on how much paint you are spraying and the fineness you want on the pattern. I sometimes spray from 3-4cm.
Here is a 1/144 MarderIIIM that I painted with my Aztek with the tan nozzle on:


It is generally about the exercise and getting used to the trigger. More time you spend with your airbrush, better it gets, no matter what the airbrush is. Althugh I must admit the fellows up are right about Badger:}

Hey there Trabbot,

First of all,...I have the same set up as you...and have had no problems at all...first thing to do, is to take apart the tan nozzel, and make sure its clean.

Once its clean, if you want to do fine camo, mix your paint more like 60/40, or even 70/30, thinner to paint. Reduce your air pressure down below 10lbs....the lower the better, I usually run 5-8lbs.

On the back of the Aztek body, is that steel knob....that controls paint valve on the airbrush, taking it from a single action AB...IE, you only have to push the button down to get paint to come out...this would be all the way to the right...or clockwise if you were looking at the Aztec from the back.

If you turn that knob all the way to the left, or counter clockwise...it turns it into a double action AB....you now have to push down on the button for air, and pull back for paint....the more you pull back...the more paint will come out.

With the combination of the lower airpressure, thinner paint, you have to get alot closer to your modeling subject...thus you are able to create finer lines.

If your rear adjusting knob is all the way to the left, and you have your paint and air good....you should be able to produce thin lines no problem.

Also contrary to popular belief...the tan nozzel can be used with either enamel or acrylic paints, as well as other painting mediums with no problems....I have used it with both acrylic and enamels and have had no problems at all.

As far as seals go...there really aren't any in the aztec.....unlike other airbrushes, all the moving parts are up front in the nozzel.

Beyond anything....make sure its clean!!!!

i posted this before... this is a reply email from Testor Corp

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Please try the trouble shooting & cleaning methods in the following form. Please keep in mind: You Should Never Submerge The Airbrush Body In Any Cleaners.

Aztek Airbrushes are among the most innovative and "user friendly" airbrushes on the market. You'll spend less time cleaning your airbrush and more time creating with it. Most Airbrushes require complete breakdown of the brush for periodical cleaning and maintenance.

The "Reverse Flow" or "Back Flow" method is common for most other brands of airbrushes, however it should not be used with any of the Aztek Airbrushes. Please do not use this method, the paint should never be forced to flow through the entire airbrush body. You are damaging the components of your airbrush every time you back flow. The only parts that need to be cleaned are the nozzles and the nozzle housing.
Repeated damage by this method of cleaning will result in an un-useable airbrush and is not covered under warranty.

CLEANING
When you are finished with a project, you must clean your Airbrush thoroughly before you put it away. Fill the Paint Cup with thinner or a recommended cleaning agent for the type of product that you are using and spray through the Airbrush continuously until the solution runs clear. It is also very important to use the Cleaning Tool, provided with your airbrush, to remove any excess build up of paint that has been missed.

DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE AIRBUSH TO CLEAN IT. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE TO FIX ANY PROBLEMS. TAKING THE AIRBRUSH APART WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY.

CLEANING FLUIDS:
All Aztek nozzles, paint cups and the front and sides of most airbrush bodies are resistant to all common solvents including: ACETONE, MEK, MEBK, TOLUENE LAQUER THINNER, ECT. These solvents can be used to clean dried and wet paint without damaging the airbrush.

Shaking the closed container a couple of times during the 30-minute soak will help loosen the dried paint. If the nozzle swells, let it sit for awhile and it will go back to its original size once the acetone has evaporated. Do not soak the A270 airbrush nozzles, it will damage the "O" ring inside, rendering the nozzles un-useable.
TIP: You can soak the Nozzles and Paint Cups in Acetone in a closed container for no more than 30 minutes.

DO NOT IMMERSE THE AIRBRUSH IN ANY THINNERS OR CLEANERS.
INTERNAL AIR TUBES MAY BE DAMAGED BY SOME OF THESE CHEMICALS.
DO NOT STICK FOREIGN OBJECTS IN THE FRONT END (NOZZLE HOUSING) OF THE AIRBRUSH. USE THE RECOMMENDED CLEANING TOOL/NOZZLE WRENCH OR THE CLEANING ITEMS DESCRIBED ABOVE. DO NOT DISASEMBLE THE NOZZLES. IF YOU TAKE THE NOZZLES APART, YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO RE -ESTABLISH THE FACTORY SETTING AND THE NOZZLE WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY. IF THIS HAS BEEN DONE YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE NEW NOZZLES.

1. Remove color cup from side of airbrush body and spray out remaining media onto a scrap of paper.
(We suggest the Airbrush Cleaning Station or an old coffee can). 2. Use solvent made for the particular media that you are using. Pour solvent into Aztek cleaner bottle, hold bottle to color cup opening and push fully down on trigger and spray onto paper or into Airbrush Cleaning Station, until spray is clear. If using watercolors, flush with water or Rubbing Alcohol.
Do not force solvent into airbrush.


3. After spraying solvent, follow with water. Airbrush and nozzle are now clean and ready for storage
or for another color. If further cleaning is needed, soak the nozzle only, in solvent. DO NOT SOAK
THE AIRBRUSH.
4. To clean color cups, disassemble into 3 parts * cap, inner & base. Soak in cleaner. Rinse in water
and re-assemble.

AIRBRUSH CLEANING TOOL
Our Cleaning Tool will remove media deposits left in the airbrush body, which may restrict the flow of media and/or air. These deposits normally cannot be removed with regular blow-through cleaning. The cleaning tool is designed specifically for the airbrush body nozzle housing and cup ports. It is not for use with the
color cups or nozzles.

GENERAL HOUSING CLEANING
1. Insert reamer end into nozzle housing. Push in gently and rotate 360 degrees and remove.
With your air source, blow out any clumps of paint, that may have come free.

2. PAINT CUP PORTS CLEANING: Remove blanking plug from port. If tight, use the long bar of
the cleaning tool to push it out. Insert short bar, rotate and remove. Clean reamer and repeat.
Always remember to replace your blanking plug after cleaning.


TROUBLE SHOOTING
Possible paint build up on the needle can cause air to blow back into the nozzle. Clean the nozzles or replace.
One of the characteristics of acrylic paint is that it dries very fast. In some applications this is a desirable
trait.

When using an airbrush, keep in mind that the paint is likely to dry even faster because of the added
Air-flow through the unit. What this means to you is, even if you stop for a few seconds, you may need to
clean out the unit. If you don't run your cleaning agent or thinning agent through the unit, the paint will
dry on the tip of your nozzle and inside your nozzle, which results in the nozzle or body becoming clogged.

You should consider purchasing nozzles that are designed to decrease the amount of paint accumulation on
tip of the nozzle. This, of course, will not prevent the acrylic from drying inside the nozzle if allowed to sit without cleaning. A suggestion would be that you purchase some #50498 Acrylic Cleaner. This is a necessary solvent
should the acrylic be allowed to dry before cleaning. Soap and water will not remove dried acrylic film. Use this solvent when soaking your nozzles. If using an oil-based enamel paint, use Enamel Thinner or Airbrush Cleaner.

1. The nozzle is not in tight enough and air is leaking into the paint line.
Use the cleaning wrench; tighten the hand tight and another ¼ turn with the nozzle wrench.
2. The needle inside the nozzle is bent, must replace with a new nozzle. 3. Is the paint thin enough? Try cleaning out all passageways of the airbrush and paint cup and thin your paint to the consistency of whole milk. 3. Check the compressor power. Are you getting enough compressed air? If it's less than 18-20 psi,
the airbrush will not spray even acrylics properly. If you don't know the pressure, you can add a regulator to regulate your psi.
5. Check the hose for kinks or holes.
6. Check to see if the propellant can has been turned on.
7. Is air coming out of the nozzle when the trigger is depressed? Check for airline for kinks, check air source or try another nozzle. 8. Check to see if paint is thin enough for the nozzle, being used. (Consistency of milk)


In regards to the "bubbling" in the paint bottle you can try a few things. 1. Possible paint build up causes the needle to push air back into the nozzle. Clean nozzle tips or replace.
2. The nozzle is not in tight enough and air is leaking into the paint line; re-tighten nozzle.
(See above instructions).
3. Is the paint thin enough? Try cleaning out all passageways of the airbrush and paint cup and thin your paint (see thinning instructions).

AIRBRUSH DOES NOT SPRAY
1. Repeat Basic Operation Section
2. Make sure the Nozzle is in tight
3. Make sure a blanking plug is installed, opposite of the paint cup or jar. 4. Check for paint in Paint Cup 5. Check for proper air pressure. 6. Remove Paint Cup and Blanking Plug and clean between ports.
7. Install new nozzle and thoroughly clean old one. (Can soak nozzles in clear Windex or Rubbing Alcohol to loosen paint).

BUBBLES IN PAINT CUP OR JAR
1. The nozzle is not in tight enough; air is leaking into the paint line. Use the cleaning wrench to re-tighten the nozzle. 2. Paint buildup on the needle causes air to blow back into nozzle, clean the nozzle tip or replace (see cleaning instruction). 3. The needle is bent, cannot be fixed. Replace nozzle. 4. Pressure in your canister of propellant may have dropped, try placing your can in a bowl with room temperature water to maintain a constant pressure and keep the can from freezing up. 5. Hose is trapped or twisted.

INTERMITTENT SPRAY
1. Nozzle may not be tight enough, air is getting into the paint line and air is being sprayed. Re-tighten nozzle. 2. Build up on the needle is interrupting the spray (common with Acrylic paints). Thin the paint, reduce the air pressure and re-clean the nozzles. 3. Nozzle may be damaged. Closely inspect it for bent needles and cracks (do not disassemble), try a new nozzle.

AIRBRUSH SPITS IN LINE
1. Poor nozzle cleaning, re-clean nozzle and castings.
2. Make sure that the kind of paint and nozzle match. Check consistency of media, re-mix if necessary. Poorly mixed or lumpy paint goes through the Airbrush at irregular speed. 3. Moisture may be coming from compressor; you may need a moisture trap or hose with a built-in moisture trap. 4. Nozzles maybe damaged, replace if necessary.

AIRBRUSH SPRAYS CONTINOUSLY
1. Roller is too far open, adjust roller setting to loosen trigger. 1. Nozzle needs cleaning, or it could be damaged. Removing the spring can stretch it this will damage the nozzle. 2. May have internal airbrush issues, will need to be returned to us for testing.





SPIDERY SPRAY PATTERN
1. Air pressure is too great for media and nozzle, lower psi. 2. Media is too thin for selected pressure and nozzle. 3. Wrong Nozzle for media and pressure setting, try another Nozzle. 4. Airbrush is to close to the surface being sprayed.

AIRBRUSH THINNING RATIOS:

MODEL MASTER GLOSS ENAMEL PAINT: Mixture ratio: Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner, be sure not to over thin the Flat Enamels, as they can turn to a gloss if over thinned. The general rule of thumb for any paints to be run through our airbrush, is thinning to the consistency of whole milk. Your compressor setting for Enamels should be around 20-25 PSI. Enamels also require 48 hours for a full cure.

ACRYLIC: Most Model Master and Testor "Acrylic" paints pre-thinned for airbrushing. However, there may come an occasion when a color will have stronger pigments than others may and will require additional thinning. Again, the general rule of thumb is the consistency of whole milk. You may achieve this by adding thinner or rubbing Alcohol, drop by drop until this consistency has been achieved. Your compressor setting should be around 18-20 psi. Acrylics will dry to the touch, however they still require 24 hours for a full cure.

Fine detail airbrushing requires practice and varies greatly with the equipment and air pressure being used. Experiment on scrap material, before you begin painting an actual project.

GUIDELINES FOR PACTRA RC LACQUER
RACING FINISH PAINTS FOR POLYCARBONATE PLASTIC, IE LEXAN BODIES:

LACQUERS: Mix 9 Parts paint to 1 part RC65, RC75 or RC95 Lacquer Thinner. You may adjust this ratio to your own preference. Please keep in mind, dry time is 5-10 minutes between coats.

ACRYLIC LACQUERS: Pactra RC Acrylic Lacquer paints are pre-thinned and airbrush ready. If desired, thin no more than 10% with Acryl #RC5800 Thinner.

You may use RC Thinner to clean dried paint from the airbrush. If you achieve a "Cloudy" appearance on the clear Lexan; you may be using too much or too strong of a thinner for these paints.

GUIDELINES FOR FLOQUIL ENAMEL AND ACRYLIC PAINTS:
ACRYLICS: For Floquil PollyScale Acrylics, thin with Polly S Airbrush Thinner #F546008 (8oz.) or #F556008 (16oz.) or distilled water. These Acrylics are also pre-thinned for airbrushing and may only require a drop or two of Acrylic thinner or water. Psi should be 16-18.

ENAMELS: For all Floquil Enamel paints, thin with Floquil Airbrush Thinner #F151611 only. For Flat colors mix 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner; be careful not to over thin your flats, as they can turn to gloss when too much thinner has been added. For Gloss colors mix 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. PSI should be 21-25 psi.
NOTE: YOU MAY FIND THAT A SLIGHT VARIATION IN THESE RATIOS MAY WORK BEST FOR YOU.

Testor Enamels: Use #8824 or 8825C Enamel Airbrushing Thinner.
Use the following ratio as a starting point. Gloss; 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. Flat; 3 parts paint to 1 part thinner. All Enamel will need to be sprayed around 21-25 psi and require 48 hours for a full cure.



NOZZEL USAGE CHART

9304C
Fine Line Nozzle (Tan)
Application: Use for fine detail work, dot work, very fine mists. Type of paint sprayed: Lacquers, inks, water colors, Metalizer Paints
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 0.4-2.1 Bar

9305C
General Purpose Nozzle (Gray)
Application: Medium area coverage.
Type of paint sprayed: Lacquers, inks, water colors, Metalizer Paints
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 1.1-2.1 Bar

9306C
High Flow Nozzle (Turquoise)
Application: Use for Illustration, large areas, high glosses, acrylic colors, washes & weathering using acrylic paints. Type of paint sprayed: Airbrushing acrylics, thinned acrylics, airbrush colors, Testor Spraying acrylics
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-40 PSI 1.1-2.8 Bar

9340C
General Purpose Acrylic Nozzle (Black)
Application: Use for illustration, medium area coverage using acrylic paints. Type of paint sprayed: Airbrushing acrylics, thinned acrylics, airbrush colors, Testor Spraying Acrylics.
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 1.1-2.1 Bar

9342C
.53mm Nozzle (Red)
Application: Use for small to medium area coverage such as camouflage. Type of paint sprayed: Thinned solvent-based enamels, Airbrush colors, Airbrush colors, Testor Spraying Acrylics.
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 1.4-2.1 Bar

9343C
.70mm Nozzle (Orange)
Application: Medium coverage area such as T-Shirts, and Crafts. Type of paint sprayed: Thinned solvent-based enamels, Airbrushing acrylics, Airbrush colors, Testor Spraying Acrylics.
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 1.4-2.8 Bar

9344C
1.02mm Nozzle (Yellow)
Application: Use for large areas, T-shirts, Model car & truck bodies, and Armor base color. Type of paint sprayed: Thinned solvent-based enamels, Airbrush colors, Airbrush colors, Testor Spraying Acrylics.
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 1.1-2.8 Bar

9341C
High Flow Acrylic Nozzle (White)
Application: Use for illustration, medium area coverage using acrylic paints. Type of paint sprayed: Airbrushing acrylics, airbrush colors, Testor Spraying Acrylics
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 1.1-2.1 Bar

9307C
Spatter Nozzle (Pink)
Application: Use for special effects & textures, uneven stippling. Type of paint sprayed: Lacquers, thinned solvent based enamels, Metalizer Paints, Testor Acrylics
Airbrush: A320, A430, A470, 1000S, 2000S, and 3000S
Pressure: 15-30 PSI 0.1-2.1 Bar

Thats odd -testors corp has repaired my Aztec twice by replacing the inner seals! I didn't say there were moving parts I said seals - one is metatal where the tip attatches to the body the other is internal and controls air flow to the tip.