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Tamiya contemporary MBT kits
woodstock74
Joined: December 28, 2002
KitMaker: 1,189 posts
Armorama: 692 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 03:11 PM UTC
OK, so its brilliant that the periscope glass comes in clear plastic bits on Tamiya's newer MBT kits. But how on earth do you mask those tiny bits when ready to paint? The cupola periscopes I see as doable (masking them), but the glass in the 360 degree target acquisition sight is recessed (specifically on the Challenger 2 Desertised). Anyone tackled this difficulty and have an easy (obvious?) work around?
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 03:16 PM UTC
Best technique is to put the glass in after painting.
Personally, I don't like the clear periscope glass anyways. Modern tanks' periscopes are not clear. Most are coated with an anti-laser coating that appears from red, to blue, to purple, to black depending on the angle. I represent this by blanking off the periscope openings with sheet styrene. Then
I paint them black. Next, I overcoat the black with a thin layer of clear red. Add a couple coats of gloss, and they look just like the real thing.
Personally, I don't like the clear periscope glass anyways. Modern tanks' periscopes are not clear. Most are coated with an anti-laser coating that appears from red, to blue, to purple, to black depending on the angle. I represent this by blanking off the periscope openings with sheet styrene. Then
I paint them black. Next, I overcoat the black with a thin layer of clear red. Add a couple coats of gloss, and they look just like the real thing.
woodstock74
Joined: December 28, 2002
KitMaker: 1,189 posts
Armorama: 692 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 03:24 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Best technique is to put the glass in after painting.
Personally, I don't like the clear periscope glass anyways. Modern tanks' periscopes are not clear. Most are coated with an anti-laser coating that appears from red, to blue, to purple, to black depending on the angle. I represent this by blanking off the periscope openings with sheet styrene. Then
I paint them black. Next, I overcoat the black with a thin layer of clear red. Add a couple coats of gloss, and they look just like the real thing.
Point taken, though that would require painting the model first then assmebling it considering the build nature of the Challenger turret for example (once built you wouldn't be able to slot the glass back in).
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
KitMaker: 12,596 posts
Armorama: 9,071 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 04:21 PM UTC
I use Elmer's white glue and a sharp toothpick to cover the areas I do not want painted. When dry, I pick off the Elmer's with an X-Acto knife tip.
Moezilla
Joined: June 01, 2004
KitMaker: 1,161 posts
Armorama: 542 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 04:36 PM UTC
Another tip I've heard (but not tried yet myself) is to use rubber cement as a mask, similar to what Sabot has recommended above. Cheaper than buying the liquid masks on the market and sounds fairly easy to do and remove.
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 29, 2005 - 06:59 PM UTC
Hi all,
similar to the masking liquid is the masking tape. More challenging as you need to cut the exact shape and dimension but that way you precisely match the surface you need to protect more than with rubber mask.
What solution you'll use, don't forget to remove the mask just after the paint has been applied unless you may risk removing unwanted paint chips from around your periscope glass.
I'm saying that from experience :-)
olivier
similar to the masking liquid is the masking tape. More challenging as you need to cut the exact shape and dimension but that way you precisely match the surface you need to protect more than with rubber mask.
What solution you'll use, don't forget to remove the mask just after the paint has been applied unless you may risk removing unwanted paint chips from around your periscope glass.
I'm saying that from experience :-)
olivier
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 02:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For my OIF M1A2, I just painted everything on the tree, then assembled it. For my leopard, I assembled the Hull and turret with White Glue... painted it, dissasembled it, added the details and reassembled it...
Not really the preferred methods, but whatever works for you. I wouldn't recommend doing it the above ways.
Epi
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 02:39 AM UTC
Gino,
Was it you that mentioned the plastic confetti method?
Well, I was using Gino's method until who ever mentioned the confetti method. That is what I used on my M1 Panther II.
Plastic Confetti you ask? Yes, I picked up a small bag of mettalic plastic confetti at Hobby Lobby for about $1.50 and it has enought to do thousands of periscopes. You simply cut the periscope or lens out from the individual coneffeti and glu in place after everythng is painted, including the original clear lens.
Was it you that mentioned the plastic confetti method?
Well, I was using Gino's method until who ever mentioned the confetti method. That is what I used on my M1 Panther II.
Plastic Confetti you ask? Yes, I picked up a small bag of mettalic plastic confetti at Hobby Lobby for about $1.50 and it has enought to do thousands of periscopes. You simply cut the periscope or lens out from the individual coneffeti and glu in place after everythng is painted, including the original clear lens.
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 - 03:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gino,
Was it you that mentioned the plastic confetti method?
Don't think it was me. I have heard of it as well. Haven't done it myself. Loooks great though, might have to try it too.
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