on the model.
I would like to know, do you have to primer your model before you paint it or can you just paint it as if you did not have any photo ectched parts on it? If you do have to primer the model, what kind of primer should I use?

Wolf-Leader,

After adding the PE, I tend to prime the whole model. Nothing special, most cases it's a dark or black fine coat. This accomplishes two things. (For me anyway)

A) To tone down the brass or whatever PE.
B) To make sure that the PE will withstand the pressure from the AB as it's better to hopefully find the blown off parts and re-assemble prior to the finish coat.

HTH

Thanks,
Kevin Keefe
Mortars in Miniature

Wolf-Leader,

most hobbypaints will adhere to PE parts, but it may be necessary to clean them first to remove the photosensitive layer. I have read on the Eduard site that you can put brass parts in a solution of vinegar for an hour or so (this will roughen surface slightly so the paint has something to grip to), wiping the parts with lacquer thinner should work too. Don't know about nickelplated steel PE though. Some will say that priming is safer, I usually prime my models with light gray car primer by Halfords.
HTH

OK you guys. Then to my understanding that I should primer the entire model inside and out with a dark gray? Then I can paint my base color on next, correct? By primering the entire model with the dark gray, does it tone down the base color? (:-) This primering process is new to me so any information will be a big help.

Priming the vehicle with either dark or light neutral colors is always a good idea. It serves a couple of purposes.

Using a lighter color such as light grey will show any defects in the model. ie: glued lines, turret halves, PE attachment points, etc...which than can be fixed before the final painting.

Using a darker color like black or dark grey will show these point too, though not as well as a lighter color, but it offers a bonus which gives you base for pre-shading the vehicle.

I use Floquil because it bonds well to PE
It is also light grey

Andrew

I use good old tamiya primer. It's light gray and works fine !

Has anyone had any success with using rattle cans of automotive acrylic grey or white..?
I don't undercoat but it seems like a good idea before airbrushing. Any thoughts

I do a lot of automotive modeling, and I use the Plasticote, and Duplicolor rattle cans of primer. I use red oxide under red, brown, and other dark finished, black under black, light grey under blue, and lighter colors, and white under yellow and white. It works well, the only thing is I have to be careful not to go too heavy handed with it, and wipe out all of my surface detail. I usually rescribe lines in the primer a bit, if I have to do a lot of coats, to cover up repair jobs. Make sure the can is fairly warm too. I put mine in some warmer than lukewarm, but not hot, water. (If I can't hold my hand in it comfortably, it's too hot) Too hot, and the darn stuff runs before it covers. I even use it carefully on 1/72 aircraft.

I was just politely reminded that I should meniton one other thing about auto primer. Most of us know to put it on in thin coats, and let it gas out between coats. If you just lay on a thick coat of it, all at once, you will probablt melt your model with it, as it does attack styrene. My first couple coats are just light mists, then slightly heavier mists. I never lay on a really thick coat of the stuff.

I use automotive primer grey to check for flaws then auto black
Brandenus Pimpus