Hi all,
even if this post is more designed for Vodnik, I think it could serve other posters.

I want to give a try to the modification of the rear wall but I'm a bit scary about messing it up. Would you have any advice on how to do this properly.
I've undertood what to do with the wall itself (getting it straight), I'm still trying to understand what to do with the lower hull and the upper hull. The article is less precise in these areas. I mean about what cutting.

BTW if anyone is aware of the size and shape of the spacers between the wall and the metal plates on which are fixed the bins, I'd be happy to know this too.

TIA
olivier

Olivier,

To be honest I never attempted to make rear hull changes I described in the article...
But the goal is to have the rear wall flat and straight. The lower part of lower hull tub remains unchaged and it should define the angle at which the rear wall will be set. You need to modify the side sponsons area of the lower hull tub and sides of upper hull part to match the new flat rear wall. (Check you e-mailbox.)

Please note that my article does not mention one serious inaccuracy I discovered recently in Tamiya Bradley kits. The suspension arms and road wheels of Bradley should be offset with right side parts attached further forward on the hull (typical for all torsion bar suspensions). The same is true for idler wheels - they are attached assymetrically with the right one being a few inches more forward than the left one. It is quite noticeable on the real vehicle once you know what to look at. This is also the reason why the two ribbed track guards on both sides of loading ramp are not identical, with the left one being much larger.

Pawel

Thanks Pawel,
just more more point regarding the arms attachment. In the Tamiya kit, do you know which side is mislocated and should be modified ?

TIA
olivier

PS : I'll try to change the rear wall, if I miss it will you send me another test sample :-)

The left side idler wheel is definitely too far forward in the kit, so it is likely that road wheels on this side are also too far forward. But I'm not quite sure - I was researching the Bradley suspension recently, but not in relation to Tamiya kit. Again - check your mailbox.

Pawel

Here you go Olivier. Yes, not only do have the manuals for the TOW Hummers and the TOW system itself, I also have a Bradley to play with everyday. As soon as it gets a bit warmer and some light outside, I will go a take some better pictures of the back for ya.
I know this is only a Bradley M2A0+, but the hull is basically the same as the M2A2 ODS's, just picture the extra armor on it.

Pete,

Actually there are some noticeable differences in this area between M2 and M2A2ODS with the latter having simpler design.

Pawel

Here are the pages from the parts manual for both the M2A2 ODS and plain M2 Bradley. As you can see, they are bolted on the same way.

Along with the pictures above and Pawels great article, hope these sheets help out.

M2A2 ODS


M2

Thanks Pawel and Pete,
I've already done the lower skirts panel. Tonight I've made the rear wall. Next step will be the supports of the rear bins with their two plates. Maybe, I'll present one of open with the door damaged or lost.

As soon as I can, I post pics. Leaving for an game in the field tomorrow, I won't be on line the next week or so.

olivier