One more problem, well maybe not to a lot of you people, but I'm a little confused. When using Dragon magic tracks, do you paint the links one by one or pre-assemble in sections and then paint? Also. how and where do make the final joint. It's a tight fit around those wheels. Bonus prize for the best answer (no, I'm not telling you what it is) lol. Thanks all and a Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays.
Claude
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Magic Tracks...
DIAMONDS088
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:28 AM UTC
3442
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:48 AM UTC
paint in sub assemblies. i use the guide on my tiger to build them around my drive sprocket. Tenax 7r ( sold at militaryhobbies) is a great tool for this purpose as it allows a weld in hte two parts and gives working time and makes the tracks plexible to obtain a sag and strong tie. once i wrap the tracks the sprocket i make two sets of tracks that role around the rear wheel in back (still using tenax) then for hte rest i use tamiyas super fine cement and finish the top and bottom links of the track and then attach to the rear wheel section prime, paint weather etc, then attach to the front section that has been painted weathered on the tank.
hope its clear
Frank
hope its clear
Frank
DODGE01RT
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:54 AM UTC
Claude,
It is the old answer of "what ever works for you".I've not done the magic tracks but I've done a ton of the individual link kind.I paint them after they are together.As for putting them on the kit,you can make them totally,take the drive sprocket and put it into the tracks then onto the kit.
Jim
It is the old answer of "what ever works for you".I've not done the magic tracks but I've done a ton of the individual link kind.I paint them after they are together.As for putting them on the kit,you can make them totally,take the drive sprocket and put it into the tracks then onto the kit.
Jim
DIAMONDS088
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:55 AM UTC
Merci Francois,
Moi qui croyais recevoir une reponse du bout du monde...
J'utilise deja une colle (liant) similaire a Tenax, et oui, ca facilite le montage. Je voulais des opinions pour confirmer ou demolir je que je pensais faire. Encore une fois, merci,
Claude
Moi qui croyais recevoir une reponse du bout du monde...
J'utilise deja une colle (liant) similaire a Tenax, et oui, ca facilite le montage. Je voulais des opinions pour confirmer ou demolir je que je pensais faire. Encore une fois, merci,
Claude
Mojo
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 04:21 AM UTC
I built mine into two sub-assemblies for each side... painted and weathered them.. Then put them on the kit and glued them together...
Dave
Dave
blaster76
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 04:41 AM UTC
I've done tons of individual links and always prepainted the basic color while the link was on sprue. I weathered and "wore" them after assembly. Here with the majic tracks, they come separated in a bag. when I do it I will assemble in sections then paint, then mount. Ayway you look at it, it is going to be a wee bit more difficult
Tapper
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 04:49 AM UTC
Step 1: Throw Magic Tracks away
Step 2: Buy a set of Fruils.
Step 3: Watch blood pressure return to normal level.
Step 2: Buy a set of Fruils.
Step 3: Watch blood pressure return to normal level.
wingsntreads
Vendor
Minnesota, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 05:32 AM UTC
How would blood pressure lower by getting fruils? I would just pickup a set of LionMarc's resin tracks that have the holes pre drilled and the pins pre cut. Looks just a nice without the labor and cheaper to get.
Tapper
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 05:42 AM UTC
In that they are easier than Magic Tracks.
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 10:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
How would blood pressure lower by getting fruils? I would just pickup a set of LionMarc's resin tracks that have the holes pre drilled and the pins pre cut. Looks just a nice without the labor and cheaper to get.
As far as LionMarc tracks are concerned, it's true they have pre drilled holes and cut pins. But you'll need to sand quite all the shoes to ensure a perfect fit. I tried the BMD tracks and feeled satisfied of the final result but, say again, after some work I didn't expected when buying this set.
In Friul tracks, the dark side is the metal wire anticipated to be the axes. It's to soft and of the wrong diameter. But all in all, the result is very good too and you won't fear breaking a link.
olivier
Moezilla
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 11:09 PM UTC
If I were going to spend the money for LionMarc's or Fruils, I'd go with the Fruils. Heavier track for about the same price. Haven't touched either of them (or the magic tracks yet lol) but after playing with magic tracks I may end up getting some.
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 01:52 AM UTC
For what it's worth I treat them as though they are "workable", so snap them altogether so they are like a normal "rubber band" track, then paint & weather, then fasten them on in the usual way. Of course, they all fall apart as soon as you try to attach them (LOL), but usually enough of it hangs together to get them around the sprockets & idlers, then I glue all the broken bits back on. Those who've read the DaVinci Code will appreciate the process.
Red4
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 - 01:58 AM UTC
Magic tracks-
Assemble
Install and let dry, but don't attach to the road wheels
Once dry, remove..
Paint..and or weather.
As to the debate over Frui and Lionmarc...either or will require the same amount of work, just choose your poison. "Q"
Assemble
Install and let dry, but don't attach to the road wheels
Once dry, remove..
Paint..and or weather.
As to the debate over Frui and Lionmarc...either or will require the same amount of work, just choose your poison. "Q"
DIAMONDS088
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, December 15, 2005 - 08:45 AM UTC
I'm back...Thaks to all. I will now feel more at ease when I out this thing together. No pain, no gain...Dragon and co should maybe consider using metal, the Magic Tracks are well designed so, the next logical step...if you could mold plastic you should be able to mold metal??? Different technology, but at their volume, the price should not go to hight. Again, THANK YOU all and Happy Hollidays.
Claude
Claude
3442
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Posted: Thursday, December 15, 2005 - 08:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm back...Thaks to all. I will now feel more at ease when I out this thing together. No pain, no gain...Dragon and co should maybe consider using metal, the Magic Tracks are well designed so, the next logical step...if you could mold plastic you should be able to mold metal??? Different technology, but at their volume, the price should not go to hight. Again, THANK YOU all and Happy Hollidays.
Claude
you'll see the price of your dragon kit nearly double Metal is much harder and expensive to cast than styrene. it requires a very hight temperature and the equipment to do so( foundery equipment) And working in a shop that uses steel as its capital good i can say there is a seriouse shortage of metal as many plants have closed down and it would be to expensive for companys to re-open them. less suplly with the same demand means a price increase... like gas.
Frank
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, December 15, 2005 - 02:16 PM UTC
Actually Francois, I'm not sure it would be that much more expensive. True, you do need metal pots & a centrifuge to cast in metal, but for the application I'd expect a solder or white metal to be used, which puts it in the "cottage industry" class, rather like metal figures (we're only talking about 250 deg C here, & some solders are fluid at less than this, e.g. KA, No 17 etc). There is no comparison with the cost of tooling up for plastic production with the cost of the dies etc., since the moulds are silicon rubber. Incidentally, this is still the most cost effective way of casting "short run" stuff, a track link is a comparatively simple part, so mould life would be quite high. With half a dozen centrifuges, Dragon could rattle off all the track links they needed. Also wouldn't be a problem casting holes in the track teeth, in prototypical fashion. After all this is how Fruils must do it. Having worked in the industry, I'd say it would be a doddle for Dragon, if they could be bothered.
3442
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Posted: Thursday, December 15, 2005 - 05:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Actually Francois, I'm not sure it would be that much more expensive. True, you do need metal pots & a centrifuge to cast in metal, but for the application I'd expect a solder or white metal to be used, which puts it in the "cottage industry" class, rather like metal figures (we're only talking about 250 deg C here, & some solders are fluid at less than this, e.g. KA, No 17 etc). There is no comparison with the cost of tooling up for plastic production with the cost of the dies etc., since the moulds are silicon rubber. Incidentally, this is still the most cost effective way of casting "short run" stuff, a track link is a comparatively simple part, so mould life would be quite high. With half a dozen centrifuges, Dragon could rattle off all the track links they needed. Also wouldn't be a problem casting holes in the track teeth, in prototypical fashion. After all this is how Fruils must do it. Having worked in the industry, I'd say it would be a doddle for Dragon, if they could be bothered.
seeing it that way makes sense, so hopefully dragon wont wait much longer!
Frank