Ever had trouble getting flat paint to actually dry flat?
I am having that problem now.
I have tried 4 different flat clear coats
Tamiya
Badger
Rustall Flat
Model Masters Acryl
I simply cannot get them to dry flat.
I recently built a Tamiya Panther G and painted it using flat Model Masters Acryl colors. It was certainly flat after the paint dried.
I applied a coat of Future in prep for decalling. After the decals dried I coated it again with Future to seal the decals. After that dried I sprayed on the above listed flat clear coats and lo and behold the tank is just a shiny and looks like the flat was never applied.
I always mix and shake the paint before using.
Airbrush used is a Paasche VL
Pressure 10 pounds
Temp in the spray booth 73 degrees
No heat was used to help the paint dry
I have tried varing the pressure and the amount of paint applied
flat colors dry properly but why does the clear coat not do the same?
Anyone have any ideas to help me solve this problem.
Thanks
Thom
Grandville, MI
Hosted by Darren Baker
What Flat is simply not flat
wmarmor
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:55 PM UTC
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 09:59 PM UTC
Let me be the first to welcom you to Armorama.
I get dead flat results using Testor's Dullcote shot thorugh the airbrush with a little bit of thinner to increase the flow.
I get dead flat results using Testor's Dullcote shot thorugh the airbrush with a little bit of thinner to increase the flow.
Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 10:42 PM UTC
One of your problems may be that you are shooting an acrylic over an acrylic. Depending upon how ehavily you are coating with paint (and therefore, solvent) you may be actually reactivating the Future and overriding the effects of the flat. Dunno for sure, just a theory.
Testors Dullcoat is a completely different paint tyle, so the thinner form it shouldn't react with the acrylic paints, especially if the coarts are kept thin. I like a mix of 60% Floquiil flat with 40% Floquil dust and it dried dead flat every time. Again, a different paint chemistry.
HTH
Paul
Testors Dullcoat is a completely different paint tyle, so the thinner form it shouldn't react with the acrylic paints, especially if the coarts are kept thin. I like a mix of 60% Floquiil flat with 40% Floquil dust and it dried dead flat every time. Again, a different paint chemistry.
HTH
Paul
wmarmor
Michigan, United States
Joined: December 01, 2005
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 11:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
One of your problems may be that you are shooting an acrylic over an acrylic. Depending upon how ehavily you are coating with paint (and therefore, solvent) you may be actually reactivating the Future and overriding the effects of the flat. Dunno for sure, just a theory.
Testors Dullcoat is a completely different paint tyle, so the thinner form it shouldn't react with the acrylic paints, especially if the coarts are kept thin. I like a mix of 60% Floquiil flat with 40% Floquil dust and it dried dead flat every time. Again, a different paint chemistry.
HTH
Paul
Thanks Paul for the idea. I am going to let this tank dry for a couple of weeks then try it again with a different solvent type of clear coat and see if that solves the problem. It is funny though that I have about a dozen other tanks finished acrylic over acrylic with absolutely no problems. This problem cropped up with the last 2 models I built. That also coinsides with the beginning of all the snow falling here in West Michigan.
Part-timer
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 11:46 PM UTC
I know I can usually get a flatter coat (whether with paint or a clear coat) by increasing the PSI on the airbrush and using a higher % of volatile thinner (alcohol for acrylics). That's because the paint or coat will start to dry in the air on the way to the model - it hits and sticks. There's no leveling, and there's even some micro-granularity. This also has the added benefit of being dry to the touch within seconds of spraying.
Part-timer
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 12, 2005 - 11:46 PM UTC
I know I can usually get a flatter coat (whether with paint or a clear coat) by increasing the PSI on the airbrush and using a higher % of volatile thinner (alcohol for acrylics). That's because the paint or coat will start to dry in the air on the way to the model - it hits and sticks. There's no leveling, and there's even some micro-granularity. This also has the added benefit of being dry to the touch within seconds of spraying.
waikong
New York, United States
Joined: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 02:25 AM UTC
I use PollyS flat over Tamiya, Model Masters, and future all the time. It provides a dead flat finish. Just make sure your future coat is completely dry - like overnight. PollyS is water soluable like other acrylics, which is a plus for me.
Mojo
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 11, 2003
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Joined: January 11, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 03:51 AM UTC
Welcome to Armorama Thom, heres a really dumb question, but are you completely mixing your paints? Could be part of the problem...
Dave
Dave
ChrisRidle
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 08:21 AM UTC
I've found 2 products that work for me. One is Delta Ceramcoat's Matte Varnish. The problem with that is that it gums up my airbrush rather easily. I have to work quickly and leave my airbrush open full throttle once I start, which makes it more of a spray gun. However, it dries nice and flat.
The 2nd product is Citadel Colour Matte Varnish that comes out of a spray can. This is how I dull coated my LAV. It's quick, easy, dries quickly, and is flat. The drawback is that it is not everywhere. I found it in the Role Playing Game section of my hobby shop.
The 2nd product is Citadel Colour Matte Varnish that comes out of a spray can. This is how I dull coated my LAV. It's quick, easy, dries quickly, and is flat. The drawback is that it is not everywhere. I found it in the Role Playing Game section of my hobby shop.
wmarmor
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 08:21 AM UTC
Yep, I always mix my paints before use.
wmarmor
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 08:23 AM UTC
I hate to say it but to me it looks like in the photo some shiny areas on the model. I would hate to think you may be having the same problem I am.
Thom
Grandville, MI
Thom
Grandville, MI
Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 08:46 AM UTC
I usually have this problem with brushing flat paints. Tamiyas paint I never even bother trying to brush paint.
To solve my problem I dig up some of the goop at the bottom of the jar and put that on palatte and it seems to work for me.
However tonight I have a M3 Stuart with semi gloss mg barrels...... as I didn't take my own advice.
Never had too much problem with spraying it though as as others have said its very important to shake and or mix your paints before you use them.
To solve my problem I dig up some of the goop at the bottom of the jar and put that on palatte and it seems to work for me.
However tonight I have a M3 Stuart with semi gloss mg barrels...... as I didn't take my own advice.
Never had too much problem with spraying it though as as others have said its very important to shake and or mix your paints before you use them.
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
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Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 - 10:03 PM UTC
Hi Thom,
Don't worry about a slightly shiny look. It's the way real armor looks like.
To tone down this shiny look though, you can use some pastel chalk as the last step of your decoration.
olivier
Don't worry about a slightly shiny look. It's the way real armor looks like.
To tone down this shiny look though, you can use some pastel chalk as the last step of your decoration.
olivier