I have never done zimmerit yet, and are about to dive in for the first time. I know my King Tiger Porsche Turret NEEDs to have it.

Im going to use the tamiya rake method with squadron white putty and a razor saw.

How thick should i spread it?

Any tips would be helpful. I found an Article on this site by Paul Owens: Zimmermet: History and how too..seems to be a good guide.

Thanks in advance

Johnny,

Get an old model you have sitting around and practice on that first. That white putty is pretty unforgiving because it crazes the plastic. Once its on, its on. If you have a LHS the Tammy zimmerit rakes work well and are cheap, less than ten bucks. I use DAP vinyl spackle and the Tammy rakes to do mine. I also do a lot of zimmerit with the "hot knife."
More than anything else, practice on a junk model first.

Used to scare me, too.

Shaun

Hello,

at first zimmerit scared me, but now I find it quite relaxing. (possibly its the fumes!).
I've not really used the putty and tamyia rake (though ive got them ready to try properly).

I've used 2 techniques in the past, mainly humbrol filler and a 4mm electrical screwdriver.
I'm not saying my way is the correct way but it works for me:-

For Humbrol filler. I do find this nicer than the squadron, not such a strong fume smell. though it is softer.

1. try and work in quite small areas. The prevents you accidently damaging unset areas and also prevents it setting before you have chance to work the material.

2. remeber to make where tools details are going to be fitted.

3. Spread the filler very thinly, about as thick as a piece of photo paper.

4. Wait for the putty to cure slightly.

5. Push in the screwdriver upwards into the putty, at around 15degree angle ( please correct me on this if I wrong)

6.repeat this process to complete the zimmerit.

*in an emergency you can use liquid poly cement to re-soften if it is setting to quickly- but not recommended.

The second technique I use Milliput (white) (epoxy filler), ive used this a few times and I am very please with the results.

1. As above work in small areas, though can be larger than for the filler, you can moisten it with water. (I ususally try a surface at a time).

2. as with humbrol filler

3. score the surface of the model to provide a 'key'. remove any dust and slightly dampen.

4. roll out to paper thickness, use flour or talc to stop it sticking.

5. lay your rolled out milliput onto the model and roll it onto the model.

6 trim filler to shape of the surface and use a screwdriver (again use talc/flour on the screwdriver to stop it sticking) to mark the zimmerit.

7. errors can be easily repaired with water and re rolling it and if it starts to set to quickly use water.

I'll post some pics of the results shortly.

I actualyl used wall spackling and a needle nose pliers for that. It worked out much easier, it was cleaner and dried fast. But two things, patience and practice.

~Chip

The Tiger 1 is done with humbrol model filler.



The Tiger II zimmerit is done with milliput.
If anything the zimmerit is to thick, the damage shows the effect you can get by 'flicking' pieces of zimmerit off with a model knife.







I still need alot of practice to get the zimmerit looking correct + right thickness etc.

I think goose did a pretty good jobof explaining. My first couple of zimmerits were done using this same method. But first I took an old tank and practiced. I thinned my putty out a bit with acetone, but this is dangerous and GREAT CARE should be maintined. Used a hobby putty knife to put a thin layer on....in a small area gave it a minute or so to set up then used the rake. I'ld go horizontal for about 5-7 mm then go up and down, realign and repeat the process. NOw I'm older and wiser and for around $15 I've discovered Cavalier Zimmerit. Cut out the thin resin pieces check and trim to fit the pieces, pop on some medium superglue put the piece on and wiggle it to align it properly It takes less time and looks much better.

Just picked up my lovely new copy of tamyia model magazine.

They've got a review of fragons late tiger and also an interesting idea about applying zimmerit.

The author used 'No Nails' - Its a mastik-gun applied multi-purpose adesive, this is then spread out thinly and a junior hacksaw blade used to create the pattern.

the beauty of this is that it can be washed off with warm water upto five minutes after application.

- Well worth getting the magazine to check it out.

I think they call the stuff liquid nail here in the US. There are several water based materials you can use like spackling or even vinyl patching material (that stuff that comes in those long tubes you put in the gun. I have found them a little too thick to work with, just a matter of preference of course. The putty does affect the plastic, once it's on, it's on and unless you do a real quick wipe you are scr**ed.

I normally use the Elmer's wood putty for areas that believe would give me a hard time applying the zimm because its very easy to remove....(see yellowish zimmerit)


And for areas that I think would be easy I use Tamiya basic putty.



If possible, I would also recommend that you get hold of the AFV zimmerit tool...its shortens greately the zimmerit application...

Cheers

Thanks for all the reply's. I ended up applying the putty and sculpting zimmermet using the square back end of a exacto knife blade, pushing in dents and working in column fashion a small section at a time.

By the way here is a link to the zimmerit article I mentioned above

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/30&page=3

Hope that works.