When you apply a wash over acrylics is it better to use other acrylics, or does it matter? Do you use rubbing alchohol for it at all, or with it?

Matt

I recommend that you use different BASE paints when doing washes... if your figure or model is painted in Acryllic, then consider an OIL wash... and vica-versa. In my years of painting figures, I have seen my share of tragic mistakes due to washes "obliterating" the paint job underneath. By using different BASE formats (water, lacquer, oil), you greatly lessen the chance that the wash will interfere with the curing of the paint underneath. This same logic also applies to PRIMING your models as well... if you prime with enamel, then use acrylic or Oil as your painting medium... make sense?

Wow, I guess it just takes someone else to point out the incredibly obvious sometimes #:-) That would make a lot of sense, thanks for bringing me back to reality.



Matt

Hi Matt ......KFM 's advice is very good, but on the contrary I must put in my 2 cents and
it's come with my years of modeling experience.
The thing is that if you do it correctly, oil & enamel solvent washes can be applied over an enamel based finishes and without an acrylic matte clear coat.
It has to do with letting your enamel finish dry & cure for no less than 72 hours
and then applying the solvent wash in thorough application, without any stop's & start's
in between. I've been doing my washes on my armor & figues & aircraft like this for many
years.
I don't want to sound as if I'm trying to discredit KFM ( his is advise is great ).
..... I'm just saying that solvent washes over solvent based paint's can work well with excellent result's, as long as the paint underneath is fully cured, which will prevent
the wash from getting under the base coat & lifting it, or causing any unsightly paint krinkle or bubbles.

- ralph

Thanks for the help, and how do you make your writing bold like that?

Matt

Hi Matt - just put a lower case letter b between brackets [ ] where you want the bold print to begin .......... and where you want the bold print to end, do the same but add
a back-slash / before the b like this [/b] ............ok ?

- ralph

Let's find out: [b] Banana [b]

[b] orange cow [b]

Finally! I kept putting the wrong slash!

I have yet to find an acrylic, Polly S, Tamiya, Polly Scale that does a good wash. The pigment seems too big to me, so I use mostly oil or enamel, though leaning much more to oils now. The pigment is much smaller and it flows more smoothly. A high level of thinner makes the paint dry quite quickly as opposed to raw oils. I've used this method on both acrylic and solvent bases without problem, but the base does have to be fully cured.

I've never used oils before, so someone walk me through an oil wash please.

I take a dab of oil from the tube and place it on a top from a take out condiment container. I then add a drop of thinner at a time. When the mixture flows freely into crevaces, it's ready. I'll either cover the entire surface or just dab it where I want it to flow. For example, I'll initially cover all skin surfaces witha wash of burnt umber, darkening the base and giving shadows. Later, I may go back with slightly thicker wash of burnt umber or van dyke brown to accentuate the shadows or outline the hairline, cuffline, etc. When I do this, the brush has less paint and just goes to the spots I want darkened.

Now to really let my ignorance shine. Before that step I still cover the figure in a gloss-coat, Testors, Future, whatever...right? And after what you explained, I'll need to remove the excess oils, correct? How will I do that? Also, Is it necessary to seal the figure agin following all of that? Thank you for your patience! #:-)