Hi, Had some time to fool with Trumpter's "Strumer Emil" kit this morning, for that "something different" to fool with --taking a break from the Dragon Panzer IV for a bit-- and got into the second part where the wheels go together. These are quite a project in themselves.
Now the suspension on this vehicle is like that of the Tiger, Panther Lynx, and such, so there are quite a few wheels to deal with, but Trumpeter has went the extra step --either good or bad depending on one's outlook-- and made each wheel into an inner and out half, the idlers into 3 pieces, and the standard two seperate pieces for the drivers and return rollers. A grand total of 86 pieces to do!!!!!!!! Then, of course, once all these are together there is the job of sanding down all the outer 'rubber' surfaces of the wheels and adding all the various gouges and cuts in them due to wear and tear of combat.
Now wheels aren't my most enjoyable part of building, being quite boring to do, but this kit has really added to this rather long job of suspension assembly. Once all these are finally done there is no way this kit is getting those simple "rubber band" tracks on it. Too much work done on this lower area to finish it like this.

Good luck and take care, Larry

Larry, I had a similar experience when working on my Emils roadwheels. The end result is good, but I will have to agree there was a few "extra" steps involved.

Like you, I dont plan on using the kits band tracks. I'm taking the Modelkasten route

Anyone want a set of Sturer Emil vinyl tracks ? PM me on the "Big A".

Cheers ! !

Alpen

i have the sturer emil kit too,so i am in for some work i see :-)
any pitfalls you want to warn me for larry

Hi, No pitfalls that I can see so far Jeroen. Probably the one big thing that all Trumpter kits that I've done so far have seem to have is thse pesky little knock-out marks here and there. But usually they are in places that won't show to any great degree. Some occasional flash here and there too, but again, nothing that's a problem one way or the other
I found on the rear hull "tub" there's a little plastic 'extensions' of sorts on the top end that has what seems to be a bolt head molded into it My kit only had one of these present. Don't know if I will have to scratch-build a replacement for this or not, depending just just how much it will show when the top is added later on.
I think one of the reasons I decided to work on this kit now is the Armorscale barrel unit I got in for it from the folks out at R and J. This is simply a fanstasic addition and would I call a "must have" for anybody who builds one of these kits.
The ony other "problem" I can see is those darn tracks. I'm hoping that Fruil will package a set of their 's specifically for this kit before too long. I don't plan to have to by two sets of them for just one model. So I'm really in no hurry to get the kit built at the moment.
Good luck and take care, Larry

Anyone thought about using the new LionMarc clickable tracks for this kit?

It's a great kit, but the wheels are a b!tch.

My build thus far:

http://www.planetarmor.com/forums/index.php?s=ea6f0765226f56a95c728978fdd86f14&showtopic=1177

Another point worth mentioning is the gun breech/breech block. This is made up of several different pieces, and is a but tricky to figure out. Mine required a tad bit of filler/sanding, but the end result was good once complete.

Thanks Stuke for posting the link to your pics, this will be helpful to someone just starting the kit.

Right now, I'm scratch-building a few torsion bars that will be visible if some judge shines his "idiot light" down there during a competition

Cheers !!

Alpen

Larry,
I happened upon a relatively simple solution to the tracks. However, if you have glued the idler arm into place, it is too late. All I did was double the width of the notch on the idler arm base in the direction to allow it to pivot a little inward (used my snipper to gauge out a hunk of the sidewall). This created enough slack to allow the kit tracks to show plenty of sag when using the age-old pin method. Yes, I know using pins is archaic, but it does allow one to use the relatively nice kit band tracks (the hollow guide horns are worth the price of admission). Sorry that I don't have pictures, but the kit tracks are quite useable once the sag problem is eliminated.

Edited to add: On second thought, it is most likely far too late to do this because I'm sure you have glued the top hull plate to the lower tub making it impossible to properly execute the pins to force the tracks down. So, at best, let this stand as testimony to future builders who are wondering how to use the kit tracks.

Steve I've been staring at my kit for the past two days and had come to the same conclusion about the idler ...but cant we just super glue the tracks down instead of the pins?? That's what I was planning to do unless you found it impossible.

Rick

Hi, Unfortunately Steve I have already glued the idler axle in position, so this pretty well fixes that part of the build. But it is something to keep in mind if I do another one, which I really wouldn't mind doing at this stage. I think building a "what if" version, all decked out in the later war 3-color camo with a covered fighting compartment and certain accessories, commander's hatch, mg. mount, fume exhaust, etc., something like the later Elephant vehicles had on their tops, would be kid of an interesting project.

I see from the write up over on PMMS that even though this kit has two jack blocks no jacks are provided. The article further states that one of the jacks went on the right rear fender and the other went beside the door just above the first. This can be corrected by either a spare from the spares box, or a set of two of the Tamiya Pz. IV on-vehicle Panzer IV set.

Take care, Larry

Uggg, I'm still waiting for mine to arrive in the mail!! Can't wait to start this beast!