The panzerfaust screens were seen on T-34-85's. AFAIK, none of the current kits on the market include this. Aber makes a set. I'm not sure if Eduard does. As for your kit choice, go with a DML T-34-85 for sure.
Chris "toadman" Hughes
Toadman's Tank Pictures
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T34 recommendation
toadman1
Vendor
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Posted: Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 11:11 PM UTC
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Friday, December 30, 2005 - 11:16 AM UTC
I like the T34 with the anti-panzerfaust screens. I think it's a T34/85. Is there a kit with these screens or is it a seperate aftermarket PE set?
I assume that the Dragon one is better than the Tamiya.
I assume that the Dragon one is better than the Tamiya.
ShermiesRule
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 02:55 AM UTC
Anyone here happen to build a t34/85 with all the screens? I'd love to see pics
Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 07:39 AM UTC
Alan,there is the 1/16 build and article by Angry Ensign just a little while back.It's even a feature in a FSM edition.Very nice indeed.The screens are scratchbuilt from Plastruct angle and window screen.Pretty easy to do I would think.The Russians called them 'Thoma shields'(? ) HTH
cheers to '06!
cheers to '06!
3442
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 07:56 AM UTC
im sure aber makes a pe set for those screens. and im sure its for a t-34/85. sometime ago there was a dio including this.
Frank
Frank
Donald99
Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 08:45 AM UTC
Do you mean this?
Photo from Missing-lynx.com
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/russia/t3485_awilder.html
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/russia/t3485_nohyangsoo.html
Photo from Missing-lynx.com
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/russia/t3485_awilder.html
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/russia/t3485_nohyangsoo.html
HONEYCUT
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2005 - 04:17 PM UTC
Off topic slightly, but did they even stop panzerfausts? I guess the idea was to explode the charge outside the tank surface, right?
colo_artist
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2006 - 06:11 AM UTC
Both Aber and Part have PE screen sets, but the Aber is much easier to come by...
VLS has the Aber (#35A50) for $13...
https://www.modelmecca.com/images/products/ac35a50.jpg
Here are the ones from Part (#P35003)...
Jadar-Model:Part P35003 - Side skirts for T-34/85 (1/35)
Here's a great build of a T-34/85 by Burak Gulboy. They used the Aber set...
That one and more pics are over on WW2 Model Maker...
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/modelpages/BGt34_85berlin45.htm
They mention using a photo for a reference. This is the one they're talking about...
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:T34_85_4.jpg
Here's a good pic of the screens...
http://www.2iemeguerre.com/blindes/t34_76_85.htm
Here's another build. This one by Mario Ales. He used the set plus a number of other Aber sets. He also mentions why he chose the DML kit....
Those and much more here...
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/russia/mat34/mat34.htm
You might like to see what Adam Wilder did with the same subject. He scratchbuilt the screens, naturally...
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/russia/t3485_awilder.html
VLS has the Aber (#35A50) for $13...
https://www.modelmecca.com/images/products/ac35a50.jpg
Here are the ones from Part (#P35003)...
Jadar-Model:Part P35003 - Side skirts for T-34/85 (1/35)
Here's a great build of a T-34/85 by Burak Gulboy. They used the Aber set...
That one and more pics are over on WW2 Model Maker...
http://www.ww2modelmaker.com/modelpages/BGt34_85berlin45.htm
They mention using a photo for a reference. This is the one they're talking about...
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:T34_85_4.jpg
Here's a good pic of the screens...
http://www.2iemeguerre.com/blindes/t34_76_85.htm
Here's another build. This one by Mario Ales. He used the set plus a number of other Aber sets. He also mentions why he chose the DML kit....
Those and much more here...
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/russia/mat34/mat34.htm
You might like to see what Adam Wilder did with the same subject. He scratchbuilt the screens, naturally...
http://www.missing-lynx.com/gallery/russia/t3485_awilder.html
Alpenflage
Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2006 - 04:50 AM UTC
Alan, I would recommend the following:
Dragon 1/35th (DML_6203) T-34/85 M1944 UTZ Production
Aber 1/35th (AC-35A50) Anti-Panzerfaust Shields ("Bedspring Armor")
This would be your best bet
Cheers !!
Alpen
Dragon 1/35th (DML_6203) T-34/85 M1944 UTZ Production
Aber 1/35th (AC-35A50) Anti-Panzerfaust Shields ("Bedspring Armor")
This would be your best bet
Cheers !!
Alpen
blaster76
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2006 - 05:39 AM UTC
Was the bedspring armor used on any other vehicle besides a T-34/85 like say an IS-2?
m4sherman
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Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 - 08:33 AM UTC
I came across one picture of a JS 2 with the screens. One source mentioned a JSU 152. One German veteran who fired a panzerfaust at a US tank with a similar screen was wounded when the projectile bounced off the screen and almost into the ditch he was in. It would all depend on if the warhead goes off.
ban
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Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2006 - 01:20 PM UTC
Um...guys?
I just bought a DML T34/85 UTZ Mod and is building it right now. But when i tried to attach the lower hull and the upper hull together, it won't fit. I still can't find whats wrong with it so can anybody tell me whats wrong?
I just bought a DML T34/85 UTZ Mod and is building it right now. But when i tried to attach the lower hull and the upper hull together, it won't fit. I still can't find whats wrong with it so can anybody tell me whats wrong?
m4sherman
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2006 - 04:23 AM UTC
I am just seeing your request for help. Did you manage to fit the hulls together? On the DML T-34 I start at the back and securely glue the rear plate on. The rear plate can easily get out of place so I glue a thick plastic strip along the inside rear of the lower hull over the lip on the rear plate. On the upper hull, make sure that the upper hull rear plate is square and flat. Now tape the rear of the hulls securely, and check the fit at the front. The DML upper hull is thin, and may have a slight warp. If the fit looks good front to back, I then glue on the upper hull at the rear only. Be sure to remove the tape, don't try to glue with the tape on as liquid glue can run up the seams and the tape will cause it to spread. You can add the tape again after the glue has evaperated on the surface. When the back is securely glued, then glue the hull front. I find that there is often a slight bow in on the lower hull so the hull made need to be spread out. Once the front and rear are secure, glue the sides. I use lots of super glue on the hull sides. I hope this helps, the T-34 looks very good built up. I also work it so any gaps end up at the front because it is easier to fill in there. By 1942 most noses were welded on so a weld seam can cover many flaws.
USMarine
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:36 PM UTC
i got tat kit right now very nice indeed
fit seems nice to me anyway
cheeers
matt
fit seems nice to me anyway
cheeers
matt
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Posted: Monday, January 30, 2006 - 05:46 PM UTC
Ukh, thanks randall. I'll try that right away. It really scared me, i thought i already destroyed it before it was built T_T.