hey


(you may have read this in general modelling section to)

do you have to apply snow to the base first or add the tanks on then apply the snow.im doing a snow diorama and i think i might do while it is snowing.


cheers
matt

You'll ned to apply snow to the base first, unless something is parked. Then applying the snow after would make more sense.
Now, if you have a vehicle, ask yourself, is it running? Has it just stopped running? In either case, you will not have any significant accumulation on the engine deck or hood and none on the exhaust. If it's just started snowing, there will be more snow on the ground then a vehicle since the vehicle would retain heat longer. It's unlikely snow would accumulate on a barrel of a moving tank, more likely to slide off. Same with sides. Any accumulation wil simply slide off.

i ve got one parked and one moving and also 4 figures

The parked one Could have snow on it. If it's warming up or idling the engine would melt snow on the back.
Plus you would have crew activiity on and off brushing snow off it. - No snow UNDER the tank though.

The moving one could have some left over snow on it and snow under it.

The crew wouldn't really have snow on them. Maybe a touch here and there where it stuck (if its sticky snow, not powdery).

Hey Matt -

If you are a US MArine "Thank You for your service - Semper Fi

either way you have had lots of good advice from others already, here is my method:

I use Durham’s water putty for my terrain - work just like plaster. You can also use Epoxy putty, Celluclay, plaster, etc.

1. I sketch out my layout on the base.
2. Make sure you seal or varnish the base - this keeps the terrain from curling at the edges or separating (splitting) from the base. I always drill lots of small holes in the base 1-1.5 inches apart (1/8-3/8 deep using a 1/4 drill bit.) This gives the terrain material something to adhere to and seems to eliminate the separating problem.
3. If I have any special features, drains, creek bed, road embankment, stone walls, etc., I first lay this out in Styrofoam or wood to attain the needed elevation of depth.
4. Pouring the Durham’s I spread out my basic terrain shapes.
5. While it is till wet I sprinkle on a DRY mixture of Durham’s, and real dirt (I get “dirt” right from the street gutter, there seems to always be a perfect mixture of fine sand, dirt and small pebbles waiting for me… my wife suggested I sweep the street gutters more often, but I digress)
6. Once I have my final “dirt” in, I will add the “snow” – There are lots of “snows” out there including Baking Soda, Dry Plaster, Mirco-snow (model railroad stuff) and more. I have used Sweet N’ Low – artificial sweetener – for over 20 years applied over white glue or #M Spray adhesive. It is a chemical, not a sugar, so it will not yellow or attract bugs or critters. And it has a crystal like quality that I have not found in other products. NOTE:You will find in modeling and in life, there are lots of “EXPERTS” who have the only answers on what is the BEST product or method and the reason why everyone else is wrong. As for me I use what works best for me. So you choose what works best of you.
7. Now the amount of snow depends on what you are trying to portray.
a. Snow bank – Heavy snow: I might eliminate step 5 above, layer in Styrofoam apply the white glue and sprinkle on the “snow” direction. In this case I would cut in the track or wheel areas and the holes for my figures to “step” in. Remember few men ar light enough (w/o snow shoes) to stand on top of the snow. We break though and leave trails or footprints/holes.
b. Wind driven snow: I look to where the wind would blow the snow – against walls, rocks, barrels or what ever obstruction there might be. Once I lays a base coat of my snow I then apply additional layers in the corners or against he obstruction. (Did a picket type fence once and nearly forgot to add little piles of snow on the windward sign – my wife caught it – my best fan and critic –always have some one you trust look your work over or Step away when you are done and then come back 15-30 minutes later and use a mirror to look at it. It give you a new perspective and helps you to see flaws or errors better)
c. A Light snow I complete my terrain and then apply a wash of white glue and water (50/50) and powder the scene with “snow”
d. Experiment - you will have to decide what looks right for you. Only you know what scene you are trying to replicate.
8. Most “snow” products you do not paint. Since I use SweetN’Low , which has an opaque or translucent quality, I do not paint. If I want to add shadow area I tend first paint differ shades of blue them apply the snow on top. This has given me deeper shadow and has worked well in the past.

Sorry. Kind of lengthy, but I hope it made sense and is helpful at some level.

Good luck! We are all looking forward to seeing your project in process and finished.

Neill

Here are some examples

I am used to snow spray for making snow , use this be careful you can easly mess it up !

there some cool looking dioramas.the one that is parked is a anti aircraft gun with guys in action and the other f4 figs are standing round.