Here are a few progress shots of the recent Trumpeter USMC LAV-25 kit. For starters, let me say this is a very easy and quick kit to put together. Its also my first Trumpeter kit and I have to say, I am impressed with it. Much better than the previous efforts of the LAV 25 and its brothers, I have built them all. TONS of flash, on everything, so clean up is the biggest part of the assembly, but once removed, it goes together very easy. The only hitch on fit is the rear bulkhead, it is completely designed wrong, its too big. Some cutting, filing and gap filler fixed it without much problem, though.

The kit could use a few additonal items, for instance, the crew served weapons are completely lacking. I scratch-built the top mount, thanks to many fine photographs provided to me by MSGT Mike Mummey from a trip to 29 Stumps last spring. The new book from Hardcorps Models was also invaluable in this process, plenty of GREAT detail shots. I used a M240 from the Dragon Modern US Marines kit and some plastic stock to try to get the new split-spade style gun mount. I also updated the gunners site, to the newer, armored style. Also replaced the vision blocks with plastic stock, I didn't like the idea of using the clear, kit provided ones, I have another way I will use when the painting is done.

The hull was built almost OOB, the only updates I used were the excess mesh provided for the turret basket on the engine intake covers, the wire cutters from the Italeria Eduard Photo Etch update set, wiring for the headlights and replacing one of the fuel cans with a modern water can. The hull also recieved a hand painted coat of MrSurfacer to get a nice anti-slip coating seen on all LAV horizontal surfaces. I have tried a few methods, Vodnik's airbrush method, a can of Rustoleum Anti Slip, various glue methods, but settled on using it straight out of the bottle. It turned out much quicker, and could easily be reapplied in areas that needed more. I hope you all like the result, I sure do.

Side note, the only downfall of the kit is the muffler. I didn't have the time to make a new updated muffler cover, so I went with the kit verison with the hopes I could use the Eduard Photoetch set to represent the screen guard. Bad idea, it didn't even come close to fitting, as just about everything else made for the Italeri kit. If it was a dimensional item, it will not work. But, as sure as the last coat of matte finish is dry, a etch set for this kit will be released. :-) I was able to salvage the interior from the Italeri kit, as the hatches are not glued down and will be opened and some Jarheads stuffed in the back, smokin and jokin during a lull in operatons.

Also, the kit is shown below half finished. The hull was finished first, it has been painted and a gloss coat applied. I will affix the decals (not sure where or what this LAV will represent) and finish off the turret and weather the model. The wheels are also just placed on, but I will most likely keep them, they are pretty decent when a little lead shot is placed inside.

Hope you enjoy the shots. Please let me know what you all think.

Ryan

Your right Ryan, Eduard is releasing a photo etch set for this kit next month!!!!!!!

I like your anti-slip coating. My self and Bison126 are kind of scared toput the anti slip on our Bradley's. Might just give your tecnique a try.

Have you seen the Legend accessory set for this kit. I have one on order at my LHS for my LAV. Pretty good set if you haven't seen it.

Do you have a drawing or scetch of the gun mount that you don't mind sharing?

HI

Great job at detailing, esp the turret.

Look fwd to seeing the finished product.

Tom

Pete,
The technique I used is really simple:

Since Mr Surfacer is pretty thick, you can just use a small brush to apply it, small areas at a time. As it dries, within 10 sec or so, use a cheap brush to dabble the surface, MrSurfacer will stick to the brush, pulling up and leaving a nice, rough, anti-slip surface. There are about 1-2 coats on there, as I had to go back and touch up some areas that didn't "rough up" as I wanted.

But like I said, it was MUCH easier than the other way, and definately not as toxic, as I don't have a booth to spray in, and Mr Surfacer and the acetone clean up can really get to you if you use an airbrush. I have found that nail polish remover works great in regards to removing the excess material from the brush when done, thereby saving your brushes. But those cheap, white Testors brushes we all got to start our hobby are great for this purpose. Also, when dry, Mr Surfacer can be easily scraped from areas you don't want it, at least in a limited way.

If you go this route, make sure to post some pictures to see how it came out.

Ryan

Sounds easy. I'm gonna practice on some sheet plastic before I attempt it on my kit.

Thanks Ryan

Dear Ryan
Congrats on your LAV
i also have a Trumpeter kit to do so i'm very happy of the quality of the kit.
This is going to a dio or it will be a stand alone

cheers
Semper Fi
seb

Looking real good Ryan!
I have 3 lav-25`s in the stash maybe i should try to get
started on them, you certainly inspired me to

Hi all,
Voyager Model seems to have beaten Eduard this time !

http://www.voyagermodel.com/en/html/product8.htm

olivier

Ryan,

You LAV looks great. I'm waiting patiently for the UPS man to bring my kit.

I was thinking of getting the Hardcorps Models book. Is it worth $50.00?

Thanks

Howdy Ryan. Your LAV is looking good. I too like the way that the non skid turned out. I cannot wait to see it all weathered. Your M240 mount looks great. Pete, if if you shoot me a email, [email protected] I will send the MG mount photos. Out here.

Very nice looking LAV. I'm going to try and sratchbuild a LAV III. We'll see how that goes. But first a styker

Hi, just wanted to say that using Mr. Surfacer seems to be a good way to replicate anti-slip.

I first applied in on the surfaces like paint using an ordinary flat brush. After drying, I used Tamiya's liquid cement; stippling it with a stiff-bristled brush.

The end result looks close to the anti-slip done by DML on their 1st generation M1 Abrams kits. I apologize for not having any graphic proof since I do not have a hi-quality digital camera.

Care must be taken to avoid brush strokes - It would be best to work on small areas at a time. And be wary of the fumes...

Practice on a junked model first; maybe on the inside surfaces of the hull or turret.

Hope this helps.


BT6

Thanks for the compliments.

This will be used as a stand alone kit for a show in February. But with all my models, they can and will eventually be used on a giant dio, covering 80 sqare feet, like a train set for modern armor. My hobby "lifes work", so to speak. Just need to get the wife on board, nothing like taking up a whole room for what amounts to a toy set to her. :-)

Mike,
if it is still available, grab a copy. It is one of the best sources for photos, especially of the LAV. Great pictures, the right photos to super detail, the binding is awesome as it allows you to easily turn and hold onto the pages you are using without breaking the binding. The in-action shots are great references for getting a nice idea on how the crews stowed their personal and issued gear. Dave Harper and company do their research well and presents a fine, finished product.

Ryan

Looks great....what 'grade' of Mr. Surfacer do you use? I've never used the stuff before but I'm sure gonna start now! Aren't there 2 or 3 types of Mr. Surfacer? Are they for different uses? Great looking LAV 25. I'm hoping soemone will make a Canadian LAV III kit soon.

cheers.....
Bob

Thanks
The M240 came from the Dragon Modern US Marines kit. I have 5-6 of these kits lying around, I pick one up whenever I see one, so I have a couple of extra M240's to use. The mount is scratch built.

If I remember correctly, the kind of Mr Surfacer used was "500", the more coarse of the 2 available.

Mr Surfacer,as in Gunze and in those bottles?? I've never used this brand but want to try the brush-&-dab method. Laquer-based right ? It can take enamel paints???

I would think so, but I have never heard of enamel paints being unable to bond/cover laquer based paints. Either way, I use Tamiya and Polly Scale paints, both are acrylic.

Thanks Melon...I'll try it!