I am building the DML StuG III Ausf. C/D.

The C and D's in reality had a canvas cover mounted between the mantlet and the superstructure to keep the dirt out. I am thinking of trying to replicate this with tin foil but have no clue how to texture the foil once in place.

Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks


Martyn

Try tissue paper and diluted white glue. It dries to a similar texture as canvas, and takes paint much better. It's also easier to create realistic folds.

Cheers
Henk

White glue and tissue are the standard method, but I also like to use epoxy putty, like A+B or milliput (although I don't use Milliput myself, many do).

You have a long working time and, with moistened tools and some patience, you can get very realistic folds as well as tension creases and even, as the putty hardens somewhat, you can emboss the shapes of underlying fasteners and the like. Plus, you can sand and file it if the shape is too large or add more putty if the shpe needs more volume.

While there is definitely a texture to the tissue method, if you look at a piece of canvas from 20+ feet away, you can't actually see any texture at all. It is very matt, which fools the mind into thinking there is a texture visible, but you can't really see the weave of the material. Hessian or burlap you can see, so tissue is good for camo net strips or really coarse fabrics, but I like epoxy putty for normal canvas or personal bags and the like.

HTH

Paul

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

What is the suggested dilution for the white glue with tissue paper method?

Not sure which route I will go yet. I made the mistake of already mounting the mantlet and gun to the vehicle, so first I have to see if I can get it apart without destroying anything. If I cannot do that I shall have to improvise....


Martyn

My call it´s for a 50/50, I ve tried that way and works great

Sometimes the tissue has that "Fuzzy" look to it so I make sure and give it a thin coat of glue after it has dried. This flattens the fuzz and helps give it a smoother look.

Not sure if this is of any help, but why not use something like grease proof paper or tracing paper? There is no "fuzzyness" to it, but i do not know if it would work with the white glue. I am guessing it might not, anyone every tried this method?

Regards from the Swamp

Hawkeye

One technique which has worked well for me is to use tissue and a wash. I use acrylics almost exclusively, and also do a lot of painting by hand. I wind up with a bottle that I've used to clean off my brushes which is some sort of a brownish/OD color, much like faded canvas would be. If it's not quite the right shade, I'll darken or lighten it with just a few drops of paint.

Using a very large brush (3 or 4) I'll "paint" this wash over the tissue (pre cut to size ahead of time) and form it over the area I want to mount it as I soak it through. I'll usually wind up with several coats. When the wash dries, not only is the "canvas" in place and solid, conforming to any bows that are on the vehicle, it's the right color as well.

Tom

You don't want anything like grease proof paper/waxed paper that won't soak up the glue mixture. You want the glue to soak in and harden the tissue as it dries so it holds the shape.

Hi Tapper,

What type of glue would you use for this thin coat?

OOps next question....

What colour should the canvas be? At first glance it looks to be the same colour as the vehicle (dark grey/blue) but its a black and white photo +)

If you go to my thread on my Scratch built CMP https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/67484&page=1 you will see what foil looks like when used to create 'canvas' as this is what I used to create the rear tilt on this truck..

cheers
Cliff