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Armor/AFV: Techniques
From Weathering to making tent rolls, discuss it here.
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drybrush colours and od
godfather
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Canada
Joined: June 26, 2002
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 465 posts
Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 10:35 AM UTC
What colours do you guys use to brybrush your OD and olive drab, besides teh obviuos lighter shade of base coat? I like to use oils if that makes adiffernce in colours used.
lifestyle
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United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 340 posts
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Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 10:57 AM UTC
sEPIA BLACK
RANDENUS pIMPUS
Plasticbattle
#003
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Donegal, Ireland
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 11:35 AM UTC
Hey godfather. My normal method was just using lighter shades of the base coat, but never using white if possible. Using light stone, sand, desert yellow etc. The last 2 models I have made I used slightly different shades. For the running gear and lower hull with a more brown shade, balcks shades around the engine area and then a lighter base coat for the turret hull top etc. Actually I would like to do a bit more work on this before recommending this but So far Im quite pleased with the result. I will be posting some pictures soon.
Maybe some of the other guys have experimented a bit more with this and can explain it better!
shiryon
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New York, United States
Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 876 posts
Armorama: 606 posts
Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 12:30 PM UTC
As I build IDF vehicles I use light grays when dry brushing as this helps achieve the graying effect seen on IDF vehicles.

Josh WEingarten
aKa hsiryon
Grifter
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 17, 2002
KitMaker: 608 posts
Armorama: 425 posts
Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 12:50 PM UTC
Personally I wouldn't use anything besides lighter versions of the base color for drybrushing. I don't keep lightening the color to near white...I typically stop after three or four shades anyway. You can make OD green with oils using yellow ochre, white, and prussian blue. Go easy on the blue, its extremely strong.
lifestyle
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United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 340 posts
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Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 02:02 PM UTC
Oil paint olive drab is what i use to drybrush it gives a nice faded look
Brandenus Pimpus
Folgore
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Canada
Joined: May 31, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 02:44 PM UTC
An article somewhere on this site suggests using Model Master Armor Sand (and variations of that colour) for drybrushing over nearly all types of paint jobs. I find this works quite well and gives a more weathered appearance as well as bringing out detail. For most of my models I have drybrushed them Armor Sand, but for a different tone to the model, I have also used Light Sea Gray.

Nic
Folgore
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Canada
Joined: May 31, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 02:44 PM UTC
An article somewhere on this site suggests using Model Master Armor Sand (and variations of that colour) for drybrushing over nearly all types of paint jobs. I find this works quite well and gives a more weathered appearance as well as bringing out detail. For most of my models I have drybrushed them Armor Sand, but for a different tone to the model, I have also used Light Sea Gray.

Nic
lifestyle
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United States
Joined: October 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 02:54 PM UTC
Thats not a bad idea nic
Thanks Brandenus Pimpus
PLMP110
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,318 posts
Armorama: 837 posts
Posted: Monday, December 16, 2002 - 06:26 PM UTC
I use lighter shades of the base, of course, but the last color I use is Testor's Radome Tan. I love the highly weathered look this color gives.

Patrick
BornToDig
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Maryland, United States
Joined: December 25, 2002
KitMaker: 345 posts
Armorama: 311 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2002 - 02:19 PM UTC
I do a base coat with MM olive drab, a mixed wash of lamp black and burnt umber acrylics. I do a heavy wash and this tends to tint my OD a bit darker. I follow this up with a drybrushing of humbrol OD. I like the humbrol paints for drybrushing because the liquid tends to seperate from the pigment. Using the seperated pigment (which has a marmolade consistency almost) seems to give me better coverage. Remember to be subtle and do this before all your other weathering to avoid the Tony Greenland look, unless you like the Greenland look which is very pretty actually.

Ralph
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