Hello everyone. I was just wondering.. what is a good slow-drying cement that you guys use for individual track links?

Thank you.

i use the testors glue in orange tube, and depending on tracklink, i use a needle to apply the glue. works for me, and i leave it dry overnight for small items like links.



reb

I like the old testors tube as well. I also will click together the links getting them into the shape I want and the using liquid cement to lock them into their final position. It's what works for me.

Hi if you can get Humbol Liquid Cement, that is a slow drying mix, which I use then Tamiya thin or plastick weld for the final adhesive.

Regards,

John

I like to use testors liquid cement-the black bottle-I only use a small amount per link. When dry, it leaves the tracks slightly flexible, this allows some room for adjustments.

Hi,

I have had luck with the Academy liquid cement.... I bought it after having two bottles of Revel liquid cement go solid on me....

I have used Tesors as well.... it works ok too, but in my opinion the Academy is the best I have use so far.... (though could be a Tayama copy) :-)

I think the key here is liquid cement, most work well

Gray

Is it possible to do an entire side and still be flexible enough to fit them after some drying time or do they need to be done in sections?

I use either Testors liquid cement in a bottle or MicroScales liquid cement in the green labeled bottle. Both are slow setting and will give you plenty of time to do an entire run before attaching to your model.

Mike

I use MEK for the bottom runs,(very fast drying) and Humbrol for the top runs and around the idlers and sprockets,careful not to get it on the teeth of the sprockets

Thanks for all your replies. I do have one of those Testors black bottle things with the long applicator tip, but I never used it cause I feel that liquid cement is cleaner.
I read an article once where this guy said he uses scotch tape to hold a bunch of links around the curve, then applies the cement and after it dries he removes the tape. Has anyone ever tried something like that?

Thanks again.

I've heard of the scotch tape but I think it doesn't sound like it would keep the shape you are going for very long. I assemble mine in sections. I do the bottom run and then the top run as solid pieces. Then I go add links to connect them slowly together to form the verticle pieces. I also cement the drive sprocket in place as it gives me a reference point to work and measure from.

A handy tip: Try to find out the correct number of links for the tank you are working on. I've completed ones that I thought were O.K. and then looked at different ref's than what I'd used and seen that my tracks were too droopy or tight.

sounds like you would have to be very careful also and not get any cement on the tape or you might get some residue...

I found that SuperGlue will give the best bond, If your talking rubberband type trax that are under lots of stress.