I've ordered a "set" of Vallejo Model Air paints...due to arrive tomorrow (!).

Does or Has anyone use(d) these acrylics? I've heard good things about them, but I'd like to know if there are any particular caveats regarding viscosity, psi, etc., at al.....



JK

Hi James,

Well, I would have to say that my results were a bit mixed. I have only used the Aluminum Plate (Aluminium #62).

For starters, I HAD to thin this stuff, despite it allegedly being "pre-thinned". I tried it right out of the bottle, and it came out in gooey little spatters. I varied air pressure/needle setting/needle size; still spattered.

SO: I thinned it, with distilled water at a 1 part water 3 parts paint ratio. That diminished the spattering (although it still spattered). BUT, it seemed to "self level" once it hit the plastic, so the ultimate finish was quite good; very nearly as good as the "metallizer" finishes.

After the initial trauma of spattering and thinning, I let the paint cure for 48hours. I then attempted to mask it with Tamiya tape. NOPE...it peeled right off. So, after a little light sanding/feathering, I re-shot the spot, with good success.

THEN: I decided it would be best to seal the silver with a coat of Future before proceeding with further masking. I admit, I did this despite the fact that it states on the bottle "no varnish". I think I know why, it darkens and dulls the silver noticeably.

Ultimately, this worked to my advantage since I was painting the underside of a Hasegawa Ki-61, and by the time I flat coated the silver it had a nice, oxidized, worn appearance. Obviously, though, that isn't going to work if you are going for a "high shine" metal finish.

Thus, I would have to give a C to C+, at least to the silver. I have been tempted to try some of the non-metallics, just to see if I had the same experience.

For now, though, I am still sticking to my trusty Gunze and Tamiya.

Finally, I DO use the Vallejo "Model Color" range for brush painting details in cockpits; it is the best paint for brushing that I have ever used.

Hope this helps!

Ed Frick

I have had great results with both the model air and model color lines. go to their website and they have an aritcle that explains how to use it successfully. Make sure you get the model air thinner. I belive they say to use in a ratio of 5 drops of paint to one of thinner for normal painting, more thinner for different techniques. I usually spray at around 20-25 psi.

the only frustration can be that the paint can dry quickly, so you need to every few minutes clean the tip off with a cotton swap soaked with the air brush cleaner or thinner. You slow down the drying use the acrylic retarder.

The colors from them are quite nice and give a nice result. If you want to see the results of the colors, I have two projects I used Vallejo on are in the features gallery, the M1 Panther II and the Centurion!.

good luck and enjoy.

sean

Generally I am pleased with the vallejo air brush paints but they can be frustrating to use and I think the air brush used and pressures can be a critical factor. I have found at different times different dilutions etc have different success rates. Lately I am spraying almost pure paint with a few drops of their thinner at 25 PSI however at times I've had good results with 3:2 with thinner a few drops of water and 10 - 15 PSI.

You do need to clean the needle very frequently when spraying though. Just be prepared for frustrating times and keep on trying, when they work well they are very good. Always use a primer and remember they are very fragile after spraying, but do harden up after a day or two.

Ross

I really like the Vallejo Air paints. I currently use them undiluted, straight from the bottle and havent had any problems at all. They dry well and the finish is really nice. Im using an Iwata CS and I spray at about 15-25 psi. I clean up using the Vallejo airbrush cleaner as well as some Windex.