OK...I have just "finished" my first two plastic models a tamiyas T55 russian tank and and steyr german truck. I have build them straight out of box and then painted using.....model master spray enamels, Olive drab for T55 and panzer gray for german truck. Everything look OK machine guns ect i painted black so the rubber on the wheels ect. So now...decals are ON and what's the next step, I see You guys are talking about sealing decals/paint , why is that? does the paint fades over the time or decals have a tendency to fall off? What should I use to seal my models. Please bear with me as I'm new to this stuff (already love it !) I guess after sealing it with whatever You guys are using it's' time to do weathering , am I correct? What is a good stuff, easy to use/get fro the beginner to seal my model and how should I use it and not to mess it up.
Also I heve never used an airbrush so I have ordered Aztek 4308 airbrush which seem to be ok especialy for doing camo and detail work -what do You guys think about this airbrush?
Great forum by the way.
Many thanks
Greg
AFV Painting & Weathering
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a beginner here, question for abour sealing.
dronek75
Joined: February 22, 2006
KitMaker: 64 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 - 11:37 PM UTC
VonCuda
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 01:03 AM UTC
Hey there Gregory 
and welcome to Armorama.
About the sealing.....
For military models such as you've done most of us go with a "flat" coat. You can buy flat coat already in the spray cans......Testors...Tamiya...there are many brands out there. If you want to use your airbrush you can also buy small bottles of flat coat that can be sprayed on with an airbrush. Also, besides "flat" there are "satin" and "gloss" coats, but as I've said, for military models flat seems to be the rule of the day.
The main reason for using sealers is.......well it's to "seal" your paint and decals for protection. Finger prints, dust, chemicals in the air.......all these things will eventually begin to wear down the paint on your model and the decals are especially fragil. Another reason for using sealers such as "flat" is that many times different parts of your model that recieve different colors or brands of paint will have varying degrees of "shinyness" so a final flat coat brings everything together with one single dull look making a more realistic finished model.
As for weathering, yes I usually do that after I've sealed my model but others here do it before sealing.
I suppose the Aztek airbrush you ordered is going to be fine. As with any other brand of airbrush, the key to doing is good job is to practice with it alot before using it on a model for the first time. You'll get better and better with time.
Hope this helped a little and don't hesitate to ask more questions when you need advice. This place is full of people who love to help folks out.......besides, we were all beginners once.
Hermon
and welcome to Armorama.
About the sealing.....
For military models such as you've done most of us go with a "flat" coat. You can buy flat coat already in the spray cans......Testors...Tamiya...there are many brands out there. If you want to use your airbrush you can also buy small bottles of flat coat that can be sprayed on with an airbrush. Also, besides "flat" there are "satin" and "gloss" coats, but as I've said, for military models flat seems to be the rule of the day.
The main reason for using sealers is.......well it's to "seal" your paint and decals for protection. Finger prints, dust, chemicals in the air.......all these things will eventually begin to wear down the paint on your model and the decals are especially fragil. Another reason for using sealers such as "flat" is that many times different parts of your model that recieve different colors or brands of paint will have varying degrees of "shinyness" so a final flat coat brings everything together with one single dull look making a more realistic finished model.
As for weathering, yes I usually do that after I've sealed my model but others here do it before sealing.
I suppose the Aztek airbrush you ordered is going to be fine. As with any other brand of airbrush, the key to doing is good job is to practice with it alot before using it on a model for the first time. You'll get better and better with time.
Hope this helped a little and don't hesitate to ask more questions when you need advice. This place is full of people who love to help folks out.......besides, we were all beginners once.
Hermon
dronek75
Joined: February 22, 2006
KitMaker: 64 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 02:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey there Gregory
and welcome to Armorama.
About the sealing.....
For military models such as you've done most of us go with a "flat" coat. You can buy flat coat already in the spray cans......Testors...Tamiya...there are many brands out there. If you want to use your airbrush you can also buy small bottles of flat coat that can be sprayed on with an airbrush. Also, besides "flat" there are "satin" and "gloss" coats, but as I've said, for military models flat seems to be the rule of the day.
The main reason for using sealers is.......well it's to "seal" your paint and decals for protection. Finger prints, dust, chemicals in the air.......all these things will eventually begin to wear down the paint on your model and the decals are especially fragil. Another reason for using sealers such as "flat" is that many times different parts of your model that recieve different colors or brands of paint will have varying degrees of "shinyness" so a final flat coat brings everything together with one single dull look making a more realistic finished model.
As for weathering, yes I usually do that after I've sealed my model but others here do it before sealing.
I suppose the Aztek airbrush you ordered is going to be fine. As with any other brand of airbrush, the key to doing is good job is to practice with it alot before using it on a model for the first time. You'll get better and better with time.
Hope this helped a little and don't hesitate to ask more questions when you need advice. This place is full of people who love to help folks out.......besides, we were all beginners once.
Hermon
Ok I'm looking for flat coat on the interent, so far i have found testors dullcote in spay can....can I use this to "seal my model with decalls on it? The testors number of it is 1260.
VonCuda
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 06:57 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ok I'm looking for flat coat on the interent, so far i have found testors dullcote in spay can....can I use this to "seal my model with decalls on it?
You sure can! Matter of fact, that's exactly what I use pretty much all the time. If you live near a Walmart you can even buy the Testors flat coat in the spray can there instead of having to pay with plastic and getting stuck with shipping charges.
One bit of advice on the Testors spray cans. Make sure you have really good ventilation cause this stuff will have you seeing pink elephants and naked dwarfs if you spray it inside the house. Also, it comes out of the can like a F-15 at takeoff so back the can away from your model a good foot or more before spraying.
Hermon
keenan
Joined: October 16, 2002
KitMaker: 5,272 posts
Armorama: 2,844 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 08:15 AM UTC
Greg,
Welcome aboard.
If you already painted your models with the MM spray out of the rattle can (I am assuming you used the flat colors) and your decals are on you will have a problem when you hit your model with the Testors Dullcoat. Your decals are going to "silver."
When you paint a model with a matte or flat paint decals don't stick well or snuggle down to the surface.
If you have a flat coat of paint on your kit you will want to seal the areas where you are going to put the decals with some sort of gloss coat to give the decals a smooth surface to adhere to. Most (some) of us use Future floor polish. Just paint it on right out the bottle with with a brush and let it dry. Then put your decals on over the Future. Let the decals dry and seal them again with Future to make sure sure that they don't lift when you weather your model. The whole weathering thing is enough for a whole thread.
Sounds to me like you are well on your way.
Don't hesitate to ask questions. All of us have been there and done that.
Again,
Welcome,
Shaun
Welcome aboard.
If you already painted your models with the MM spray out of the rattle can (I am assuming you used the flat colors) and your decals are on you will have a problem when you hit your model with the Testors Dullcoat. Your decals are going to "silver."
When you paint a model with a matte or flat paint decals don't stick well or snuggle down to the surface.
If you have a flat coat of paint on your kit you will want to seal the areas where you are going to put the decals with some sort of gloss coat to give the decals a smooth surface to adhere to. Most (some) of us use Future floor polish. Just paint it on right out the bottle with with a brush and let it dry. Then put your decals on over the Future. Let the decals dry and seal them again with Future to make sure sure that they don't lift when you weather your model. The whole weathering thing is enough for a whole thread.
Sounds to me like you are well on your way.
Don't hesitate to ask questions. All of us have been there and done that.
Again,
Welcome,
Shaun
dronek75
Joined: February 22, 2006
KitMaker: 64 posts
Armorama: 53 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 09:01 AM UTC
should i spray it with couple of thin layers (how long in between?) or give it one "shot" , I have used a flat paints to paint my models and decals seem to be just fine...so Am I risking ruining my decals once i use testors dullcoat , what should I do now to avid problems?
SKurj
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 235 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 06:29 PM UTC
Before you seal those decals..
Go to your hobby store and buy Microsol, or ask if they have any decal setting solution. Take a brush and coat your decals with it. As it dries the decal may go wrinly but don't worry and don't touch. Give it lots of time to dry, and perhaps try a second coat. No need to use much just enough to cover the decal.
24 hrs after your last coat of the decal setting solution, then give the model the flat coat, but I would suggest you give it several thin coats, waiting an hour or so between coats.
Next kit you build, try this...
Once it is painted in your flat colours, buy a bottle of Future floor polish/wax (be sure you buy that brand name) Before you put your decals on, brush some of the Future on in the spot the decal will go. This will make a glossy shiney surface (might take more than one coat). Let it dry, then apply your decals using the steps I mentioned above. Once the decals are dry (the next day) brush some more Future over them to seal them. Once that is dry, go ahead and spray your flat coat.
Martyn
Go to your hobby store and buy Microsol, or ask if they have any decal setting solution. Take a brush and coat your decals with it. As it dries the decal may go wrinly but don't worry and don't touch. Give it lots of time to dry, and perhaps try a second coat. No need to use much just enough to cover the decal.
24 hrs after your last coat of the decal setting solution, then give the model the flat coat, but I would suggest you give it several thin coats, waiting an hour or so between coats.
Next kit you build, try this...
Once it is painted in your flat colours, buy a bottle of Future floor polish/wax (be sure you buy that brand name) Before you put your decals on, brush some of the Future on in the spot the decal will go. This will make a glossy shiney surface (might take more than one coat). Let it dry, then apply your decals using the steps I mentioned above. Once the decals are dry (the next day) brush some more Future over them to seal them. Once that is dry, go ahead and spray your flat coat.
Martyn
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