Well, I could need some expert advice on my Sherman. It's Tamiya's 105mm.



Welds were remade using putty. Also, I've added some casting textures on the turret and the front.


Thinned out exhaust deflector and front fenders



Replaced moulded on handles with wire


I'll be placing the hatch in an open position, need info on what to put inside the hatch.


Other things I will do:
- Replace the 50 cal with that from Academy's MG set. Question: I was thinking of a variation, can I put the 30 cal MG instead?
- Add the missing bolts to each bogie
- Replace thick light guards (I'm having a hard time scratching this. And I don't have the money to buy expensive PE sets)
- Add and replace moulded on straps on the tools

Thanks Roderick! And yes, I've been using that site as a reference. Pretty good site IMO

Looking good so far.
You can use brass flat wire for your light guards. One often missed detail is the small tube welded to the inside of each guard, to stow the lights when not in use.
I don't know if all 105's had this detail, but one photo I used for an Israeli one showed braces on theinside front fender. Also, if you're going to do the extra bolt detail on the bogies, you might as well get out the #78 drill bit as well. On each bogey, on the opposite side from the return roller, drill four holes. Since each unit could be installed on either side of the tank, the return roller assembly needed holes to mount them on either side of the bogey.
One other alternative to your light guards is to carefully shave them down from the inside. Tedious, but possible.

Looks fine so far.Now,drill small holes to allow water to drain out from near each filler cap.
(++) (++) (++) (++)

Thanks guys!




Can you point out to me where those holes are located?

Teenee weenee update:




I tried working on the headlight guards (hope I got it right).

Gday Ralph!
Seems you are doing sufficient improvements to your howitzer...
As for the lightguards, I think you should invest in some flat brass wire. The effort involved would be no more than what you have already done for your current guards, and IMHO come out looking alright!

Made these for my M4A3. So long as you pick the right size, you will have a sufficient supply to last you a few tanks. An option I do is to heat the tip of a #11 blade (usually one that has had the tip snapped) and then press it into the tank at the pre-measured position where the guard is welded to the hull. This helps in a couple of ways. It gives the brass a 'hole' in which to be supported and glued, and also the rough heated lumps of plastic around the 'hole' can be either cut off later or used as part of the weld. If you have a hole running right through the hull, it makes it easier to get the exact measure for cutting.... As for the shape of the guard, well I use the tapered end of a paintbrush (after cutting approx. 2" length) Press the centrepoint of the length with the brush then bend around it to form a long U shape. USe some pliers to hold the top end at the right distance for the big 'curve' in the guard, then carefully bend the overhanging parts with your fingers to the required angle. After some trial and error, you will work out the position/angle from reference pics, and then cut the horizontal bars to length to attach to the curved guard in place. You will realise that the end will need to be cut at the same angle as the curved guard where they join... Same deal with the rear guards, just work from a reference pic and adjust for the angle of the hull....
HTH, I know I prattled on a bit, but don't be daunted!!
Cheers
Brad
P.S. As for the drain holes, they are for drainage of water/liquids trapped inside the splashguards around the turret and the fuel filler caps, the round air vents, think anywhere that water can be trapped. The holes to scale would be no more than the size of your thumbtip, and are at the outside base of the guards, at hull level.
Here area couple of examples
Credit M4 Sherman walk around

The circular splashguards on the rear deck have a hole in the outside centre at the base...

Thanks Bradley! It took me about an hour working on those guards (gawd, I wish I had the money for a PE set, but alas, must scratchbuild). Tried my electronics shop near here and they don't have those flat wires so I have to stick with aluminum foils (Which are IMO, veeeryyyy soft and delicate)

Thanks for the drainage holes ref pic. I was about to put holes near the fuel filler caps, but I dunno where to drill it. The pics sure helps

BTW, does the new DML Shermans have these holes? Or do I also need to drill em?

OH and Ralph, while I had the book open I nearly forgot these...
Credit M4 Sherman Walk around

The pic shows that you really need a periscope or at least the housing in place, and to make the latch on the top right inside corner of the hatches in both pics. The bottom pic shows the periscope flipped down.
If you want a PE periscope and housing, PM me your address and I'll send you one over!
Cheers
Brad

EDIT
No the Dragon kit doesn't have the holes... Do you have maybe a model train shop nearby? They may stock the flat brass bar...

Magnificent pictures Bradley! For a while I thought the hatch had some kind of paddings the same way they did with the split type hatch in my M4 Early.

We had a model train shop nearby, but they sell only collectable trains, no models :-) And no, not even stuffs like wires and such.

PM sent

You're welcome Ralph
The mail will be sent tomorrow first thing...
You may find that using just the periscope housing will be enough- the periscope doesn't have to me modelled in place, as the 360` vision blocks in the cupola would be also used...
Cheers and gnite
Brad
It's half past midnite

Thank you Brad! Much appreciated!