I need to make a river on a Nam diorama but I am wondering wath the best material should be. Any tips on making wakes behind a LSSC (light seal support craft).

Any tip is welcome.
Thanks in advance

Try using clear silicone caulking. Paint the color of water you need and then use the caulk to build up the waves in the water. Ive seen it done in a few books, but I have never tryed it.
Hope this helps.

007

I believe its Woodland Scenics that makes a product for modeling water, (ask for it at your local hobby shop, if they specialize in model railroading they'll know what you are talking about).

The product (I believe), has to be mixed and then poured into your diorama. Make sure the area you are pouring into is tight as this stuff will find the tiniest hole and leak out. As it begins to set and becomes tacky, you can start to manipulate the product behind your LSSC with a screwdriver to make waves. You may have to manipulate the product several times before it sets up and holds your desired wave shapes. Once dry, paint the waves and their foam as you see fit, (please note that most modelers paint the "riverbed" before applying the product over the top).

http://www.woodlandscenics.com/

Yes it is Woodland, the one product needs to be heated and then poured on, you need to prep the base and color it first also make sure its leak proof, the second item comes in a bottle and has the build of white glue for makeing waves and ripples. Hope this helps

M1

Thanks for the links to the Woodland Scenics products. I see the product does not have to be mixed. Thank you for the clarification.

Here is an article from Greatmodels that I've stashed in my archives for future reference:

GreatTips: Making Water

In light of somewhat recent releases such as the Fairey Swordfish floatplane and the just released Italeri DUKW, we thought would re-visit on old diorama technique - water. There are a number of products to accomplish realistic water effects and we will cover just the basic ones, readily available at your local hobby or craft store.

One of the easiest products to use comes from Woodland Scenics (the train folks) in the form of small amber colored pellets. These are to be melted in a disposable tin and poured into the groundwork. Obviously you are dealing with hot liquid, so follow the manufacturers instructions and be warned that you run the risk of deforming the more delicate parts of resin and plastic kits. Also, according to the manufacturer, this product can become soft again if exposed to enough heat. Not really a huge issue if you are even moderately cautious, keeping your dioramas out of the attic or back window of your car in the middle of summer!

Two-part resin is an old standby for creating water that has been used by hobbyists for many years. Because it undergoes a chemical reaction, this clear resin also emits a surprisingly high temperature that can damage kits if not done properly. Again, with care this is a great method.

Finally, from an old issue of Scale Modeler a hobbyist created a diorama scene of an Apollo capsule shortly after splashdown. He used clear Liquitex Artist's Gesso, which is used to prepare painting surfaces for acrylic and oil paint. Gesso is fast drying, easy to work with and color. Also, it is applied at room temperature which makes it very safe to work with for both the hobbyist and kit.

Refer to each manufacturer for general usage instructions. Regarding the specific use to model water, there is one technique that should be followed with all these materials. You must color or tint the material to simulate the appropriate look for your scene. If you are modeling ocean, then obviously the color will lean more towards blue and green. For a pond or inland stream, more brown is likely appropriate. Know your terrain. For the best results, you will apply the material in phases. For example, your first layer might be only 6-8mm deep. You will want to tint the layers with the appropriate density as they are applied. With each successive layer, add less color until the top layer which will have little or no color at all. The result will be a realistic depth that will have onlookers saying, "how did they do that?" Follow each manufacturer's instructions for the maximum depth you can apply along with drying times.

GreatModeling to You!

I baught something that might be usefull : it's a very clear product used to make candles.
It's very clear and after having been heated and poured hardens to the consistency of "hard jelly"... I don't think that you can make waves in it , but it should work perfect for still water.
i'll use it someday.

Waarde landgenoot,
I advise you check out this diorama forum. There's been quite a few posts that may help you to make your water (I hope there's no double meaning here )
Though I tried several typical "water" products (transparent Polyester, transparent polyurethane, two-component polyester glues, ...), the best result is still in using gloss varnish. Start by painting your bottom colour (I'd try brown for Vietnam). When that's dry, make a mixture of that colour with varnish. When that layer is dry, make a mixture of 1/4 paint and 3/4 varnish. Next layer you go to 1/8,... Continue layer upon layer and let dry each time. In the end, you paint pure varnish. This technique makes your water look really deep, even if the whole thing is only a few mms thick. Wath the forums on this site for illustrations and pictures on this technique.
Veel geluk, bonne chance...
Good luck.

Thanks guys for all the tips. I 'll have a try on these techniques.