I'm currently doing a diorama which will contain a part of a church. My question is, how do you make stained glass windows in 1/35th scale? It will most likely be broken, but I would still like to know how to make it. I had planned on using that plastic that usually covers toys and sharpies, but I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks for your time.

Your method sounds good. You can aslo get faux staned glass craft paints at Wal-Mart or craft stores like Michael's etc. They are transparent paints and allow light to pass therough them. You can also get clear plastic sheets there or at hobby shops that are a little easier to work with than the ones from packaging.

Couple of ways -
1. Get clear office transparancies and markers in colors and some black. Use white glue as the 'lead' and color in with markers
2. Get multiple color tranparancies and glue them with white glue to creat the bead and paint the bead.

Gino,

I first sketch out or get a copy of an original Stain glass window I want to use and then trace out the design in permanent marker on clear acetate or plastic or the appropriate scale thickness. Next I use Drafting Tape and lay out the design.. Literally tape it down – Drafting Tape is used for design work and works just like scotch tape - it can be purchased at most Art or Drafting Stores (I buy mine at Aaron Brothers Art Store.)

Once it is completed I flip it over and do the other side. The tape becomes the Lead setting. Once this is done I paint the windows in various washes of color to get the affect I desire.

Here is a very simple Design for a Sniper figure I did a year to so back.



Hope that helps and makes sense. If knot drop mea line and I will go into greater details as you might need.

Good Luck,

Neill

Sounds like a great way, but it wasn't me asking. Thanks though.

Sorry Gino, Neill -- Old age or maybe it is bed time!!!

When I needed a stained-glass window a couple of years back I found an image on google, rescaled it in Paintshop Pro, and then printed it onto acrylic sheet from an overhead projector using my inkjet. The ink took a couple of days to dry on that material, but it worked fine after that. You must protect the image with gloss coat or it can rub off easily; use an aerosol to 'mist' coats or airbrush on low pressure as otherwise the ink will be lifted from the film. Fragile, but it looked good.
In 1/35 I wouldn't worry about the thickness of the lead between the glass parts, as in real life it's barely thicker than the glass anyway.

There are two excellant ways that I have found to do stained glass. The sharpies and clear plastic do work well though. but you must "work" the ink to get an even coverage.

The other two methods, one being mentioned before is the clear transparenceies that you can print on your own inkjet at home. They work really well. There are many jpgs on the interent that you can find to use. and print to your desied size.

The other method for "colored" glass is tamiyas new clear coat colors. Airbrushed on they can look great. I have used this with creating "glass" objects like bottles, vases and other knick-nacky type stuff for dioramas.

Wow, I didn't think there would be such a large response! Thanks for your time and help! I will start work immediately!