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Armor/AFV: Modern Armor
Modern armor in general.
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Italeri M60 Blazer
markm
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California, United States
Joined: September 11, 2005
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 1,148 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 07:36 AM UTC
OK, just picked this one up at a pretty good price. Can anyone tell me what the downfalls to this kit are if any? I just opened up the box and everything looks pretty good, even the link and length track. Other than the puke colored plastic it looks like it might be a decent build.
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 07:44 AM UTC
A copy of the Esci model-the best of the M60 series over Tamiya and Academy. .30 cal. guns and mount are a little weak, and the blazer armor on the glacis isn't quite as detailed as on the Academy model. The separate fender supports are nice- just thin them by rubbing on sandpaper and fill their installation slots in on the fenders before installing. There ase usually some sinkholes in the fender stowage bins that need fixing too, but it's a relatively easy fix. You got a good kit there.
One more thing-since the track is styrene, this is a great kit to chew up the rubber track blocks on. It's far more realistic, and easy to do with a Dremel.
markm
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California, United States
Joined: September 11, 2005
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 1,148 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 07:47 AM UTC
Ya, I have been looking at everything a little closer. Looks like I have the option of an Israeli tank and that is about it with whats included in the kit. That is no problem at all. I love sand colored armor. Gives me a break from OD, Panzer grey and dunkelgelb.
What is a realistic amount of damage to the track blocks-dont want to overdue it. Also would the metal areas of the tracks rust the same as any other track?
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 07:58 AM UTC
In a lot of photos, the track blocks are chewed up right down to the steel frame around each one, so that they're flush. In this case, if freshly driven, the frame around the block is steel colored. If not, it'll rust just like the rest of the metal parts of the track.
markm
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California, United States
Joined: September 11, 2005
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 1,148 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 07:59 AM UTC
Thanks, hey our sigs are "real close" as well
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 08:01 AM UTC
Yeah, but it looks like you posted yours first. They're the three genral orders in my unit.
markm
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California, United States
Joined: September 11, 2005
KitMaker: 1,757 posts
Armorama: 1,148 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 08:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Yeah, but it looks like you posted yours first. They're the three genral orders in my unit.



Mine came from several dealings with Internal Affairs :-)
ahueger
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 217 posts
Armorama: 214 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 10:58 AM UTC
Mark,
this really is a very decent kit. You have to use either parts B16 (most common) or B38, not both. This is a very common mistake and has been brought up only lately.Add a handle to the hatch A31 and replace the .30cal G2 mount for a scissors mount. You should also find a place for towing cables (like on the boxtop). These are the most visible mod's I'd do, but there's always much more you could do ....
HTH - Andreas -
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