Which oils are the best for modeling? I am aware of the different qualities but i do not know which one is conveiniant. I was looking at winsor&Newton paints and noticed the difference in prices for the different "types"
Also, for pastels, which is best?
http://www.currys.com/drymedia/prodinfo2.asp?SubcatID=655&catID=3
or http://www.currys.com/drymedia/prodinfo2.asp?SubcatID=665&catID=3
Frank
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Wich oils for modeling?
3442
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Posted: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 05:30 AM UTC
WingTzun
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 09:04 AM UTC
I'm surprised no one has expressed an opinion on this. I don't even rember the brand I last used because it's been so long since I used oils. I have heard all good about Windsor Newton paints so that's more than likely what I'll buy/try when I get around to it.
What have you tried ?
What have you tried ?
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 10:28 AM UTC
For Pastels these should be fine:
MUNGMPE12 Mungyo Earth Colors Set of 12
I prefer the softer pastels. They shave down easier, and the colors are not that intense. The earth set should do you fine.
If you are going to do modern aircraft, with the various grey schemes, then a set of Grey's work out well also.
As for oils, you can't beat WN for quailty. The important thing is get the artist grade, not the student grade. (easy to tell the two apart, just by price for the same size tube, the artist grade has much finer ground pigments than the student grade. (again, since you will be dealing with the earth tones, they are on the lower end of the price scale). Also get the smaller tubes, they will last you for years. (I also suggest a small tube of Paynes Grey.)
I can't help with the newer "water soluable oils", as I've never used them.
MUNGMPE12 Mungyo Earth Colors Set of 12
I prefer the softer pastels. They shave down easier, and the colors are not that intense. The earth set should do you fine.
If you are going to do modern aircraft, with the various grey schemes, then a set of Grey's work out well also.
As for oils, you can't beat WN for quailty. The important thing is get the artist grade, not the student grade. (easy to tell the two apart, just by price for the same size tube, the artist grade has much finer ground pigments than the student grade. (again, since you will be dealing with the earth tones, they are on the lower end of the price scale). Also get the smaller tubes, they will last you for years. (I also suggest a small tube of Paynes Grey.)
I can't help with the newer "water soluable oils", as I've never used them.
Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 03:23 PM UTC
I can vouch for the water mixable oils as they are very nice. Much more versatile when you have a choice of solvents for the same color. I use water,mineral spirits mostly,but can also use naptha or Future.Can also be used to tint spackle and plaster.Very happy with these oils.
cheers!
cheers!
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2006 - 11:07 PM UTC
Thanks Rick, I've always wondered about them.
How's the drying time, and mixability with them?
Also, can they be intermixed with normal oils, or would I need to just uses those together?
How's the drying time, and mixability with them?
Also, can they be intermixed with normal oils, or would I need to just uses those together?
Posted: Friday, May 26, 2006 - 01:32 AM UTC
Mixability within the brandline is good,no problems,and very consistant.Unknown about mixing with other brands I still allow 3 days drying-minimum if I use petro solvents and 2 days with water.With Future,I can be safe overnight,however it is always a gloss finish.
I am now playing around with Winsor&Newton tube acrylics and think they're pretty cool to work with too.(OK, they're my first 'good' acrylics ). Can even do fair size area wash with good behavior!
Bear in mind,I do all my finish work by hand.Rattle can primer and basecoats,then a variety of brushes,sponges,blending stumps,and rags for everything else.
cheers!
I am now playing around with Winsor&Newton tube acrylics and think they're pretty cool to work with too.(OK, they're my first 'good' acrylics ). Can even do fair size area wash with good behavior!
Bear in mind,I do all my finish work by hand.Rattle can primer and basecoats,then a variety of brushes,sponges,blending stumps,and rags for everything else.
cheers!
FingersEddie
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Posted: Friday, May 26, 2006 - 04:53 PM UTC
I use these! I think they are absolutely beautiful to work with, also they are water soluble, so you can clean your brushes with water! I mix these oils with Tamiya enamel thinner X-20, and they work fantastic!
Posted: Friday, May 26, 2006 - 08:30 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I use these! I think they are absolutely beautiful to work with, also they are water soluble, so you can clean your brushes with water! I mix these oils with Tamiya enamel thinner X-20, and they work fantastic!
Yep!! These are them. :-) :-)
Posted: Friday, May 26, 2006 - 08:40 PM UTC
Hey Rick/Paul. Have you used those W&N for washes? How have they worked? Similar to a real oil wash with thinner, or have you added washing up liquid or similar, to improve the flow.
I agree about getting good oils ... as its almost an investment. Even a small tube will last for ages.
I agree about getting good oils ... as its almost an investment. Even a small tube will last for ages.
Posted: Friday, May 26, 2006 - 11:09 PM UTC
Frank-you can use water base washes with or without a drop of soap and 2 days later use the same color with mineral spirits to get a slightly differant action and effect. I'm not that good at figures but find I like water base for hints,drybrushing,pinpoint detail. Spirit base for overall/area wash.
cheers!
cheers!
Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 01:45 AM UTC
Thanks Rick. IŽll be showing later why I need to look into water based washes!
WingTzun
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Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 02:27 AM UTC
Are they good for use as a filter as well?
Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 08:39 AM UTC
I am not sure on that at all,David.If filters are applied with an airbrush,then I will have to defer to someone who has one and uses these paints.I will reckon that this is possible if regular artist oils can be used through an AB for filter application.If you use turpenoid solvents with these paints,they act like traditional oils as far as flow,sheen,and drying time-long!
I'm sorry I can't help further on this.
cheers!
I'm sorry I can't help further on this.
cheers!
3442
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Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 09:18 AM UTC
OR these
i got a tube of the first kind of oil, although they arnt "artist" grade they seemed to work perfectly for cheaper... is their that much of a difference?
Frank
i got a tube of the first kind of oil, although they arnt "artist" grade they seemed to work perfectly for cheaper... is their that much of a difference?
Frank
Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2006 - 03:27 PM UTC
Francois- I have not seen the Winton brand before.The Winsor&Newton brand is available and the ones you show are the traditional 'Artist' grade oils.These are pricey and have never been on sale as far as my local sources go. I have not tried them.
If you like the Winton brand then by all means,use them! Paints are like wines.If you like it,drink it.Don't let anyone tell you you're drinking a 'bad' wine if you like it!
If you like the Winton brand then by all means,use them! Paints are like wines.If you like it,drink it.Don't let anyone tell you you're drinking a 'bad' wine if you like it!