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Armor/AFV: Modern Armor
Modern armor in general.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Modern Armor: Tamiya Challenger 1 MK3
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:40 AM UTC
After taking a 2 months break from my last kit and spending a bomb on it, i ended up building this kit completely OOB with no AM parts or modifications whatsoever. I took this opportunity to instead play around with different painting techniques so this was the end result.

Painting Technique used:

- Base coat of light sand
- Applied clear gloss coat over the entire model
- Applied a heavy dark brown wash on the gaps and intentionally let it flood over the gaps.
- Sprayed a thinned coat of light sand over the entire kit.
- Dry brushed over the bolts / corners etc with a mixture of dark grey and red brown.

Here is the end result.











Another reason for building this completely OOB was also to pick up my motivation again and doing so certainly did rejuvenate my love for the hobby.

Comments / Feedback always welcome.
Erik67
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Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:51 AM UTC
Good looking Chally, Jeremy. Only thing I would comment is the TC helmet. It seems a bit glossy. Good over all job.

Erik
WingTzun
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Illinois, United States
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 853 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:51 AM UTC
Very Nice Jeremy. I can hear the engine purrrrrring..
Build for the pleasure of building, Eh? I like it.
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 05:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Good looking Chally, Jeremy. Only thing I would comment is the TC helmet. It seems a bit glossy. Good over all job.

Erik


Oops good point! Will change that when i get home tonight.
ptruhe
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Texas, United States
Joined: March 05, 2003
KitMaker: 2,092 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 05:07 AM UTC
Looks nice and dusty. Needs a bit of stowage though. I'm thinking the rotating light on the rear might have been removed for the desert but I'm sure someone knows better than me. Good job.

Paul
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 07:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks nice and dusty. Needs a bit of stowage though. I'm thinking the rotating light on the rear might have been removed for the desert but I'm sure someone knows better than me. Good job.

Paul


Thanks for the kind words. I totally agree with the need for more stowage. I forgot to mention that i had also used this kit as practise for the chally 2 so i will certainly keep your point in mind when building the chally 2.

Another point i forgot to mention was that i had used some notes taken from one of Vinnie's aka Teacher article about using darker colours to dry brush over corners and bolts etc. Some modellers choose to highlight raised parts with lighter colours but after trying both, Vinnie's technique works best for me.

Here's raising one for the Teacher!
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 08:17 AM UTC
Looks good. Great job. Agree with Vinnie's technique. It works well on lighter color paintjobs.

Good luck on the Chally 2.
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:14 PM UTC
Thanks for the kind words Gino. Am actually waiting for Graeme's book on modelling the chally to come out in the LHS before making a start on it. Would love to use it as reference.

I cant seem to locate the specific article that Vinnie wrote on this as i would have like to reference it here. The problem is, Vinnie started publishing articles before i was born so it isnt easy to find.

My next project is the M163 Vulcan SPAAG. If you guys know of a good place to get resource material for this, it would be much appreciated.
Erik67
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Buskerud, Norway
Joined: July 31, 2005
KitMaker: 1,871 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

My next project is the M163 Vulcan SPAAG. If you guys know of a good place to get resource material for this, it would be much appreciated.



Not much, but at least a start

Erik
Murdo
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: May 25, 2005
KitMaker: 2,218 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:36 PM UTC
Lovely job.... Inspiring even...

Now where's me old Chally 1 gone?
bison126
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Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 04:50 PM UTC
Hi Jeremy,
good job with this OOB build. It's good to do one sometimes

I agree about the glossy TC helmet and your brushing technique. I don't like that much highlighting the various angles. In the real life, those are subject to erosion and you often can see the primer color or the bare metal.
But all this is just artistic license.

Olivier
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
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Posted: Monday, May 01, 2006 - 04:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Not much, but at least a start


Thanks for that. Yeah i actually already found those and thought there might be walkaround photos on the web some where.

Cheers guys!
Tomek_K
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Wojewodztwo Dolnoslaskie, Poland
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 150 posts
Armorama: 131 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2006 - 03:45 PM UTC
Nice Challenger Jeremy.

I have this kit too, waiting in my cupboard for rise of my modeling skills. :-)
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Friday, May 05, 2006 - 04:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice Challenger Jeremy.

I have this kit too, waiting in my cupboard for rise of my modeling skills. :-)


Hi Tomek,

Thanks for the kind words.

Its a pretty ok kit IMO. Lack of stowage equiptment as you can clearly see from my build and i do question the way you had to construct the wheel and their suspension arm. Seeing as they arent exactly fixed in place, you run the risk of elevated wheels once the cement dries. I can see why subsequent track kits from Tamiya have the suspension arms molded with the rest of the lower hull.

The chally 2 seems to be a much better kit though....watch this space...
slynch1701
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Illinois, United States
Joined: March 08, 2005
KitMaker: 340 posts
Armorama: 290 posts
Posted: Friday, May 05, 2006 - 05:31 AM UTC
Looks good. I hear you about wanting to concentrate on painting and weatrhering. I have not been in the mood lately for doing all the extra in the build. I just want a nice staright clean build with only doing the minimum corrections if at all and want to try new paint and weathering techniques.

Your work definately inspires what can be done when you do that.

Sean
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
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Posted: Friday, May 05, 2006 - 07:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks good. I hear you about wanting to concentrate on painting and weatrhering. I have not been in the mood lately for doing all the extra in the build. I just want a nice staright clean build with only doing the minimum corrections if at all and want to try new paint and weathering techniques.

Your work definately inspires what can be done when you do that.

Sean


Hi Sean,

Cheers for that. Yeah getting AM parts to NZ can easily double the cost of the kit. My Tamiya M1046 pretty much cost me approx NZ$110 just to get both the kit and the blast model parts.

My next couple of builds will most likely be OOTB once again.
slynch1701
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Illinois, United States
Joined: March 08, 2005
KitMaker: 340 posts
Armorama: 290 posts
Posted: Friday, May 05, 2006 - 10:05 AM UTC
Yeah, I met some New Zeeland guys on a trip thorugh Europe last fall and they were commenting on how hard and expensive it can be to get various things(not just model related) there. I can only imagine how its getting as shipping costs are going up....Good luck and look forward to the M163...I've been wanting to do one of those myself. Interested to see what you do with it.

Sean
Hawkeye
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Wales, United Kingdom
Joined: March 29, 2002
KitMaker: 701 posts
Armorama: 640 posts
Posted: Friday, May 05, 2006 - 11:28 PM UTC
Hey Jeremy,

very good looking Chally. The weathering looks spot on and even has really contributed to the look of the tank. OOB building, i think, is a great way to "force" yourself to concentrate even more on the painting and weahtering stages, this is where an OOB model can easily match one that has had lots of AM pasts added to it, congrats!

Regards from the Swamp

Hawkeye
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Armorama: 3,034 posts
Posted: Friday, May 05, 2006 - 11:47 PM UTC
I have to agree about doing OOB kits. All the little bend and fold and clamp and glue of the brass stuff or cut and trim of resin can wear on you after a while. Just building an OOB or doing one with adding screens and a metal barrel can be a lot of fun. Especially with Tamiya kits, they are just so user friendly. I am doing the Tristar IV D and even though it is OOB, it is difficult to understand some of the directions and figure out how parts go together. You did great job on your Chally. I have same kit and will use yours as a painting guide for when I do mine.
dexter059
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Region de Valparaiso, Chile
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 1,569 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 06, 2006 - 07:24 AM UTC
Great looking Chally Jazza, I believe the overall result of your "experimening" it´s quite impressive. I do think like Erick though, the helmet of the crew member looks a bit glossy.

Agree also with doing OOB....my current buiild has demanded a large amount of scratch, it´s starting to become stressing, like you´re never going to end adding little bits.

Congrats for great model.
jazza
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: August 03, 2005
KitMaker: 2,709 posts
Armorama: 1,818 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 06, 2006 - 08:46 AM UTC
Thanks very much for the kind words guys. I feel quite humbled by the compliments considering the company of the other high profile modellers we have on this site.

My experimental ways will be continuing however. As mentioned, i will be building an M163 Vulcan SPAAG which i will be using MIG pigments for the first time. Lets see if these pigments blend in well with the dry brushing technique picked up from Vinnies article.

I'd fully recommend simple OOB builds.
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