http://photos.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/135285/cat/500/ppuser/9292

http://photos.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/135282/cat/500/ppuser/9292

http://photos.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/135283/cat/500/ppuser/9292

Gentlemen, feedback please.

Dragon kit (Thunderbolt box art) 3 in 1, Verlinden resin piece on front, Fruilmodel trax, tarp on rear is Milli, MIG pigs, scratch rails on turret and on rear quarterpanels.

Direct, honest opinions.......what would you change if you were taking this to a show?

Hi MJ:
I think it's OK. Here are nitpicks (if I were judging the model at an IPMS contest)

1) the finish: the overall OD seems good but there are inconsistencies like the dark brown handles and the somewhat harsh downward streaks (esp on right turret wall). Maybe use some pigments to blend things together more.

2) your suspension weathering is inconsistent too. Caked on mud on hull walls but relatively clean suspension units. Again some pigment dust may pull it together more.

3) some accuracy nitpicks: only the upper left rear tail light lens was red. the lower one and both on the right rear tail light had black lenses.

4) your tarp on the stowage is good. However the items "glued" onto the rear corners' vertical surfaces looks very artificial. Crew's would throw stuff on the deck rather than have them scraped off at that awkward position.

5) In the future, don't use black on the rear exhaust deflector. It was just OD and redirected air flow. Some sooty build up there but not extensive.

HTH

I just get red X's

no pics, just red X's

The X's are very accurately alligned though 10/10!!!!

The URL you posted isnt right. Didnt have the image file name. Am seeing red X's like everyone else.

Here you go folks

Ta Rudi
Whoa mj that tank is a grimer!!
Am in agreeance with the other 'nitpicks', and if you don't mind I'll add a couple of my own...
The spotter light on the turret top is missing the front section which is a part on the clear sprue... cylindrical in shape, so the interior can remain clear and lens-like, with the outer side OD...
On the back edge of the rear deck there are 2 grouser box covers (oval in shape) behind the rear lights... This M4A3 didn't have them, as this is a carry over from the hull being from the M4A2 kit...
The bottom half of the tank blends well with the surrounding earth!
I'd add some ivy or creeper to the wall to add a bit of green contrast...
Best of luck
Cheers
Brad

It appears nothing on the glacis is tied down. Gravity always wins. This stuff would be falling off very quickly as you have it. The stuff seems to be blocking the periscope lines of sight. There's also a map case and back pack sitting on the turret. I see that and wonder why they're out there on a buttoned up vehicle. To my taste, some of the pre-shading (or post-shading) is excessive, such as around the protrusion below the map case and around the pistol port.

I heartily agree with Al's assessment about equipment stowage. Often we can lose the focus that these are HUGE and powerful machines. The engines drove these metal beasts over fields, roads and all sorts of terrain types. Imagine the power required to push this vehicle around ditches, dips and through fauna, etc. Now imagine your five gallon jerry can and loose chain that's stowed on your glacis sandbags. Same with the mapcase on the turret and the magically attached tarps on the rear vertical corners. I call this the Verlinden-esque method of slapping equipment all over the place without paying attention to utility and assumptions of logic.

Imagine taking a pick up truck and driving around the countryside. Would you want a jerry can, loose chain or spare tire just casually leaning on a surface? You'd be in for a day's worth of trouble for sure! HTH

I think you've gotten some pretty good advice. Here is just a couple of things not mentioned that you need to do first. Look at the tank head on and rear on at eye level. Make sure track runs straight and true. Looking at the side view track looks good in that it is all on the ground. Take a magnifying glass / gogles and look at every joint to make sure you don't have joint cracks, glue spots, or molding seams. If those 3 or for items are perfect, you'll pass into the "medal range" where they look at the detail work you've done and where all the stuff others have suggested you make some modifications. 75 to 80 % of tanks entered into competitin fail due to tracks, gaps, and molding marks

Very nice Sherman! In my opinion it lacks a figure on it! Nevertheless, it's a great work! Congratulations!
Cheers and happy modelling!
Prato