If I were to build a half sunken freighter and used the method below, would it work ?
I plan on having tanks on deck, etc. [ below the glass and water product ].
Oh and whats the melt / destruct factor for different types of water products, when poured over :
model plastics
Plastruct / Evergreen, plastics
Rubberband type tracks - plastics

And no this is not the tramp steamer in the build I want to do.
This will be another freighter on the other side of the A.A. quayside, [ see this sucker is growing already and I haven't even started yet l.o.l. ]
So now the ante on this is two freighters, one unloading, one sunken at the quayside.
Still should be able to keep this 6' x 3' [ I'm hoping ]

Thanks in advance - Cheyenne

Ok the writing on the pic. isn't clear, that's a piece of glass with water product in a few layers on top, underneath will be the rest of the sunken ship and deck cargo, tanks, vechs. etc.

would it work - I know you would make it work. Technically is should be very doable.


check this one out - this is what you need to read.
Gemini Recovery

It looks like resin is poured over a substrate then removed from the substrate.

I have used casting resin successfully over an injection jeep for CF


It was ok, it didn't get to 'hot' I've used in it in other projects successfully also. I'll just say - test it first, its cheap and easy to get.

Very good Scott, and thank you.
So technically I can use a water product and pour it over a greased board or something and after the water product is dry remove it.
Thanks again Scott, now you've opened a whole new area to model - the underwater portion of the freighter which [ with this suggestion ] can be modeled and detailed and left open at bow and stern to view that area.
What is the strength of a thin pour of the resin you're talking about, to represent the sea at the dock area ?
I'll have to experiment on that, for support reasons.

Thanks again - Cheyenne

Casting resin is pretty strong, it really depends on how thick you pour it.

The way the Gemini project was done the water had support on three sides (shelf in a box). That will definitely help.
Another idea is to get a thin sheet or glass/styrene as a substrate and pour wateron one side, let it dry , then turn it over and do it on the bottom, that way you get a three ply strong sheet.

Glenn, your mind is an amazing thing, where did this idea come from? Its great!!! I dont have much to offer on the resin and how it affects plastic and rubber band tracks, I am wondering that as well for myself. I have been using Casting Craft resin for my water, I never paid attention to the heat factor to much. I do know that the envirotex stuff is supposed to not have much heat and not affect the model plastics at all. lookin gforward to our next chat. We have to talk about this one!! Cheers Kevin

Cheyenne,
I'll run this by you for your perusal:
If you could add another layer of tinted glass/plexiglass with a gap between it and the surface would it add the illusion of added depth?
I suppose you could even add more than one layer for a really 'deep' feeling :-)
Tom

uh, take a lot of care of the fact that the polyester resin RETRACTS, and you may have a bad surprise here.
I use resin in almost all my dioramas, i've been noticing that if you don't take care, it does melt the small injected plastic parts, the trick i use is to use LESS hardener than what it's written on the box -the resin will spend more time to set, but the heat will also be somewhat lesser.
jb

Thanks guys I really appreciate the input, Kevin I'll try and give you a call tonight.
I'll try and draw a better overview of what I want to do and post it.
My rooms all cleaned and ready for the next project.
Cheyenne