Hi Guys
I picked this product up and know I need to know the best way to use it. A recent thread talked about thinning it and air brushing versus hand brushing it. Which is better? Does the number stand for the grit...coarseness of the product? Would Mr surfacer 1000 work for adding texture to tanks, or did I waste my money, HAHA!! Any tips or advice would be great, thank alot!

I havent used the 1000 yet, though I use the 500 on my armor. The way I use it is to apply a coat with an old brush and allow it to set up for 1/2 minute to a minute and apply a second coat using a stippling? action. The reason for this is the 1st coat is a bit tacky and the second coat pulls it up slightly. Careful with this or itll look like caked on mud, which I do this too for the lower parts. try experimenting with this on a scrap model or plastic part.

Hello

I have used the Mr. Surfacer in the same way as Tim, however I have read an article in Tamiya magazine where it was sprayed to recreate the Anti slip texture on a Chally 2.
Looks good, but wouldn't fancy cleaning out the airbrush after, might need lots of cellulose thinners!

Cheers
Dus

What about Humbrol primer (#1 in the list)?
I just bought it and it seems an ordinary enamel!

I don't think that would work. Mr. Surfacer isn't really a primer, it is a fine filler. There are suspended solids in the Mr.Surfacer product that remain after the solvent has evaporated. Once dry, it is a great filler for seams and small bubble holes and the like. The very fine grades (like 100 or 1200) are used by some people (especially the aircraft guys) as a final sealer as it dries to a pretty ahrd finish and it will polish out quite nicely, removing any remaining fine scratches on the surface.

For cast texture, I brush on a relatively thick coat and start to stipple it. I stipple it until it leaves fine peaks on the surface (like a lemon merangue pie). This can be quite stringy, like old tube glue. As it dries, these sharp peaks round out quite a bit, but can leave a very coarse texture. Once very dry I go over the surface with 600 grit sandpaper. If I am doing a really coarse casting, the nI just take the tops of the peaks. If I'm doing a very nice casting (like most AMerican castings) I take most of the texture off, just leaving enough to show some unevenness after a coat of paint.

HTH

Paul

Thanks guys for all the tips. The label is in Japanese i believe, but the fluid is grey, not sure about fine or superfine. I guess best thing to do is try the stippling technique and see how it goes. Cheers!