Hello All can someone please offer some advice.
I have to apply a wash and filter to my King Tiger. I have already applied one wash in oils with white spirit and a few things fell off as I only applied previously a coat of satin varnish from games workshop.[ the wash didnt come out too bad but I think it needs another}
I gather I have to apply a gloss coat before a wash and I have read that Johnsons clear ? [not sure if this is the correct name ]is good.
Does anyone know where I can get it in the Uk and wether it needs thinning as I do not use an airbrush and also , do I need to apply it before or after filters?
On the question of filters has anyone used vallejo acrylics for this and if so what did they thin it with ie. water and dish soap

Hope this all makes sense?
Thanks
?

Hi and welcome

About the things falling off: Two things could have happenned: or you were to rough with your brush and the little things broke off or you glued parts onto an already painted surface. The white spirit dissolves the paint under the glue and parts fall of. An option is to paint your vehicle with acrylics instead of enamels. The white spirit does not react with acrylic paint.

I don't use that johnsons clear but just use gloss coat mixed with the base colour and it works just fine. There are about 1000000 people on this site that do use johnsons so someone must be able to help you.

You could use vallejo with water and soap (you can use any paint you want for filters by the way) but hardly anybody uses that, most people use artist oil paint (you know, the stuff Bob Ross used)

Cheers,

Matthijs

Couple of suggestions:
I'd stay away from doing washes/filters with acrylics. Some people use them, but most use enamels or oils for washes and filters. The main reason is how the different paints dry. Acylics dry fast and hard, meaning very little workability. Splotching and tide marks tend to pop up and these are difficult to correct because of the low workability of the medium. Enamels are far better in this regard, while oils are the best. Oil washes/filters are VERY workable after application. Cleaning up of any ill-effects is a breeze, and layering pigment for effect is far easier.
Here's another advantage of using oils: You can thin them with less caustic thinners than enamels. In my opinion, the best thinner for oils is artificial turpenoid (available at art stores; if it is the Weber brand, go with the blue can NOT the green can which is natural turpenoid and is a disaster waiting to happen). You can use a turpenoid/oil mix for washes or filters over any fully cured paint surface. It is mild enough to not disturb enamels and is completely non-interactive with acrylics.
Regarding the clear coats, these serve multiple purposes and may or may not be necessary depending on a number of factors. First, they are often applied to give a gloss finish to ease application of decals (avoids the whole silvering effect). Second, the gloss surface makes washes flow more readily. Since the purpose of a wash is to darken or otherwise spread pigments to cracks, crevices and other sunken details, this is a good thing. Filters, on the other hand don't require a gloss finish because their purpose is to layer pigment across broad surfaces. In fact, a flatter finish actually aids this process. If I have applied a gloss coat I will top it with a flat coat before doing filters. Finally, I'm of the opinion any kind of topcoat is better applied by airbrush (or spraycan if that is your only option). I'm sure some people apply them by brush with good results, but I've never had much success playing around trying to cover a broad surface by brush. Admittedly, I've not tinkered with that effort much, so perhaps someone can provide some insight.
My personal recommendation would be to invest in a small collection of good quality (artist grade) oils. They are expensive, but they will last you a LONG time. Since you don't use an airbrush, these would be especially valuable to you because of their ease of brush application. Start with some black (when you want the darkest wash possible), burnt and raw umber (shadows and general grime accumulation), yellow ochre (dirt and dust), and maybe some raw or burnt sienna. The latter work wonders when used to replicate wood grain on handles/jackblocks, etc. Another use for oils is drybrushing. The umbers are great for drybrushing contact areas where paint has worn down to bare metal.
Hope this helps!

Thanks for the reply. I am attempting to upload some photos
I would like some advice on what colours to use to fade/weather this camo pattern please. I have access to Vallejo acrylics and oil paints with oil paint thinner from an art shop as well as white spirit. The maodel has received one oil wash and a satin varnish already.


I hope you can see the pics as I am new to all this

Oops sent the same photo twice, but you get the point. I think it needs some serious fading. Also another question what do you use for a reaally matt finish once weathering is done.
Thanks
gavb

Is there any way to fade this camo pattern. What would be the best colour to use?
Or should I start again on another model as this is my first attempt. Or will a liberal application of pastels do the trick. Not having an airbrush I cant attempt to mist some buff colour all over as I have read in some articles.
Thanks

Hi Gavin,
sorry for the latee reply, I just ran into this.
First the rest of your pics..







Looking good Gavin, and to be honest, I would leave it as it is. I would suggest using a cheap, old, inaccurate kit to practise, experiment on. I do ( I think most do) and if it goes wrong, it does not ruin all your hard work.
That is a fine looking KT at any rate, And short of misting the bottom half (which you can't, I know I'd leave well alone.
Mind you, you don't need an AB for that effect.
You can use pastel powder, or pigments, and dap them on with a large soft brush. ( Ask wife, girlfriend, mother. Always begin by explaining WHY you need a large blusher brush... :-) )
Just dab it on, but remember, less is more...

Welcome on Armorama BTW..

Cheers
Henk

just one thing with your tank - very nice painting by the way.the tracks are on backwards or upside down.

matt

and also how did you do the camo and the chipped paint because they are outstanding and how did you paint the hard edge camo with a brush-i used a brush for my hard edged camo on my sturmtiger and found it hard to keep a straight line.
for your washes first lay down a gloss coat / klear over the model,do or your washes weathering etc give it another gloss coat then finally give it a dull coat -testors or humbrol matt varinsh number 49 (test first)will do to stop the shine off the model.i do a sludge wash on my models theres an article on it over on "fine scale magazine" or FSM site.

cheers
matt

Thanks for the replies. I didnt notice the tracks :-) Unfortunately I have already given the tank a few coats of thinned enamel. As it turned out way too much. But I will carry on using your tips and apply some rust stains and mud. Although now it will be harder to get the right look between heavy dust and mud if you know what i mean. It also looks as though I will have to pin wash some areas again as the panel lines etc dont stand out as much. have either of you encountered this problem?
I have another question to ask do tow cables rust all over?
The chps were done with vallejo german biege I think, something like that. Then I mixed cam brown with some steel and apllied that inside the biege. Its a tip I picked up from an article on the web. I would of replied earler if I had regular access to the internet but thanks again for the help.
Post somw photos soon,. well maybe after the world cup

To fade your camo pattern, hit the KT with an extremely thinned down (20 percent paint, 70 percent thinner) coat of yellow, painting with the airbrush at least a foot away. What you will get is a light 'misting' on your KT.

So it doesnt look dusty, you could also darken the yellow basecoat with a few drops of red-brown and 'fire for effect'.

A.