This has probably been asked a few times, so please forgive me. What is the best way to dull down models? I havent had one of my models weathered in a year or two and even then it was a friend who did it for me (he only liked doing the paint and effects, and has since moved), and want to get into it as my newer models are very shiny in appearance. If it makes a difference, I prefer painting by hand. I basically have no knowledge of weathering, other than the odd thing or two I have heard. But even then dont really understand it.

And I know this is going to seem an incredibly dumb question, what exactly is dull coat? Is it just another type of paint that is duller, or is it its own product that will dull any colour of paint?

Kevin,

we don't do dumb questions around here..

Dull coat is a matt varnish, but I have not used it myself so I can't tell you how and what it works best with. But somebody will..

If you prefer to hand brush, try powdered pastels or pigments. You can apply them with a brush to simulate dust, or if you use it sparingly you can tone down the colour overall. just dab your brush in the powder, and dab it onto your model. Build up the effect you want gradualy.

Cheers
Henk

Hi Kevin:

Don't worry about what ever kind of question it might be. As Henk sezs
there are NO dumb questions. Everyone who wants to improve their
models have to start somewhere. I notice you just came on board 1 April.
I would suggest you check out all the various Armorama sites, even
figures as often as possible. Weathering with all it's various and sundry
techniques plus all the subtlties of that vast topic are discussed and
displayed here on the sites all the time. And to do it well, takes a while to
learn. But with each attempt you learn some "happy surprises" as some
here call them, and grow from that experience. I would suggest if you
want to learn this aspect of modelbuilding that you get some inexpensive
kits to practice on. Some modelers here weather by using using washes
made from plastic bottle acrylic paints and water or with oil paints and mineral
spirits. Some use pastels or colored pencils as Henk explained. Keep
your eyes peeled to these forums and you will start to get more info.
Plus keep asking questions.

To answer the question about dull cote. There are many brands of
dullcoat/cote. I use Testors Dullcote and thin it with lacquer thinner and
clean up the air gun or paint brush with the same solvent. Some model
builders spray it on with an air gun and some brush it on w/ a paint brush.
It is a semi clear (sometimes kinda amber in tint) liquid that makes
anything that is shiny, dull. So good luck and keep those questions
coming. This is a very friendly group of gals and guys who are eager to
be of help. We "pay it forward" so to speak. I had a mentor who answered all
my questions and sat at my elbow and showed me the way. . . and now I try
to remember his memory in helping other modelers.

Regards,

Thanks to both of you. Both very informative, and very very helpful!!
Rick, thanks for explaining what exactly dull cote is, and for letting me know Testors makes it. I use their paint, so Im fairly certain it would be a good mix. And while exploring the forums, I have found the members here are very polite and helpful.
Henk, thank you for the suggestions on weathering. I much prefer brush work (not only because I dont have an airbrush) and the brush on pigments sound like just what Im looking for.

I have a few kits I would like to start on that are already completed, like simple jeeps and HMMWV that I could always rebuild if I dont like the looks of it. Then move to an M110 Arty peice I wouldnt cry over, and then to the Leopard 2A5 I just picked up for $17 Canadian so isnt a very expensive loss to me either. Then finally on to my more expensive ones, and whatever I feel like building that is sitting in my pile.

My next question....is it ok to put the dullcoat on over decals? Or should it go on first, with the decals overtop?

To add to previous discussion, Testors Dullcote also comes in a rattle can. It's easy to use -- just make sure the can actualy "rattles" before you buy it and when you are ready to use it, you shake the can for a long time (several minutes -- when one arms gets tired, switch to the other) before spraying. It also helps to warm it in a pan of hot water for a while before starting the shaking (Do NOT put the rattle can in a pan on the stove or try to microwave the rattle can -- heat the water, remove from heat, insert rattle can, expect the label to come off by the time the can is warm.) I've been using the rattle can Dullcote for years and never had a major problem. I still use it, even though I have an air brush.





Yes there are. If you have ever worked in law enforcement or corrections -- or watched local television news -- you have heard dumb questions. Rick, are you forgetting your newspaper days so quickly? In my paper's office, we have "Idiot Tuesday," which can actually fall on any day of the week when the stupid questions seem to pour in.

For the record, Kevin's question is NOT dumb. I just couldn't resist commenting on the "no dumb question" cliche.

For camo on figures I use a glaze to tone down the colors. A glaze is simply a wash where you use the base color and delute it with distilled water(I use Vallejo Acrylics)95% water/5% paint or less. I take my brush and dip it in the wash than I brush off the moisture on the brush on a clean cloth or paper towel. The brush will have very little wash on it but damp enough to cover the figure. Repeat as often until you get the results you want. Be careful to make sure that there is very little paint on the brush or you might ruin that great paint job.
I use a figure flat to protect my paint job and to some extent it does dull the paint work by giving it a flat finish. Dullcote is a lacguer finish. I use Floquil 330022 Figure Flat spray and Testors Dullcote spray .
I hope this helps.
Henry

Hello again, Kevin:

In your last post you asked about decals and dullcote. Most of the quality
modelers apply some sort of gloss coat to the surface before applying
the decal as decals set better and hug the recessed panel lines, etc.
better when applied over a gloss coat. Testors as well as a group of
other companies make a clear gloss coat, in rattle cans too, as Bob
mentioned. A lot of modelers, including me use Future floor wax, that
clear acrylic liquid from Johnson's Wax as a gloss coat before the decal
goes down. Some even put another layer of gloss over the decal after
it has set up good and hard and is completely dry. If the model is not
supposed to be glossy, THEN they put the dull coat over that. But most
modelers let at least 24 hours pass before they apply the dullcoat over
the gloss coat. . . to make sure the coats have cured completely. As I said
this isn't simple, but things that are worthwhile — and to me that includes
quality modelbuilding — are not achieved easily. There is always
something new to learn and improve on. Good luck,

Rick brings up Future and there are so many techiniques to use it that someone could (should) write a book. The stuff is amazing and cheap,.too.

Kevin -- Future works good applied with a brush either in spots or overall coverage. I've even experimented with dipping decals into it just before application ... with mixed results. Like Rick says, everything worthwhile takes a little time.

Good morning ,

Rick or anyone,
I already used Testors Dullcote but never thinned it. How much do you thin it (ratio). It should last a bit longer then.


Thank you

Claude

Hello Claude:

You ask a very good question, especially since this whole thread was
started by Kevin Johnston wanting information about weathering
techniques and also about decal application. Altho, I don't build any
aircraft models anymore and have concentrated on wheeled vehicles,
figs and small sized dios and thus rarely have to use Testors Dullcote,
I will say that for me how much I thin it depends on how long is the
time period since I bought the bottle of Testors Dullcote new. I think it
thickens as time goes by. I feel like I can determine whether it should be
thinned or whether that isn't necessary by a close look at the Dullcote.
In my air gun, if I "think" I need to thin it, I put about 3 eyedropper "drops"
in the small side mounted cup that is about 3/4th full of Dullcote. But then
I spray some on a blank sheet of paper and see how it covers. When I
apply it with a brush I feel I don't need to be as careful. I guess
you could say, I don't use a formula, just determine what works best for
me by trial and error and 41 years of experience. I try to remember
"always" put the first few sprays or brush strokes of Dullcote on some
thing other than my model. I hate unwanted surprises. Ouch

Good question, and hopefully Kevin will see these replies along with
Lonestar State Henry's and Bob's good detailed further information,
as well and put them to good use.

Thank you Rick,
so basically, as i understand it, you don't thin the Dullcoat, because, even after a certain amount of thinning, it is still dulling down the shine,so you can save on the amount of product used, but you thin it mainly because it gets simply to thick to spray or paint.
So defintely no 50/50 kind of thinning.

Thank you

Cheers
Claude

Thank you to all of you who responded, each suggestion was excellent, and I hope a lot of people like me see this thread and find it helpful to them as well.
Also thanks to Claude for asking his excellent question, and Rick for answering. I picked up Testors Dullcoat on the way home from work today, and was wondering about the mix.