Here is my Bronco A34 Comet almost completed. Aside from replacing the grab handles with wire and adding an MV lense, it's out of box. The kit provides you with the PE for the split cowl, and the sighting vane. Bronco provides both the war time (resin) and post war (plastic) return idlers. The model was given a random coating of mud over the lower hull, using fine sand and white glue. I used Tamiya's Olive drab lightened with successive coats of Polly Scale Olive drab. The Cartograph decals went on without trouble over a coat of Polly Scale gloss. Once set in place a coat of Polly Scale flat was sprayed over the model. A bit of water colour for spot washes and some light dry brushing finished the model.

I'm still waiting for Bronco's resin dust cover mantlet to hit my local hobby store, so I've spot glued the mantle and gun with the intent of replacing them in the future.

All comments are welcome, good, bad and the ugly!

Frank

It looks damn good. Everything look so neat, it almost look "digital", especially the mud, if you understand what I mean. Maybe it's positive or not, I dont know...But you have plenty of skills for sure.

Is it a WW2 vehicule? Who is the manufacturer of the kit?

Hey Frank- that's one of the best paint jobs I have EVER seen! This is the first time I'm seeing this model, so I was wondering what paints you used as well as weathering techniques etc. Is this the Bronco kit? Did you post shade or pre shade? Many modelers seem to shy away from shade and shadow techniques because they fear it's "too artistic" and not realistic. I don't want to start another debate on finishing ( it's a hobby -do want you want) but the finish on your model jumps out at you. You've done a beautiful job!!!

Hi Frank,

That's an ecellent looking job you done there. Looks really good. It's a pity Bronco didn't sort the Grab Handles in the first place, but I think this is an excellent kit.

Any build issues or fit problems?

It might be the flash or just the light but the tracks look a little too clean compared to the mud on the back, wheels and sides if you know what I mean.

Who says Allied Armour isn't cool - thank's for sharing this one.

Cheers

Al

Really nice job, love the paint. Any fit problems with the kit?

Owen

Beautiful paint and weathering. I especially like the way you got the dirt on the fenders and wheels.

Love it! Excellent paint job, I especially like the shovel and the mud looks just fine. Yet again I'm inspired to continue with my stuff!

Thanks mate

PS any plans for crew or stowage?

Only good comments from me mate. That's a lovely paint job, the drybrushing is really neat.

This looks like a cracking model!

Well it's all been said already: real good paint job. The pre-shading (I assume you used this technique) is a bit heavy on your models for realism but I really like it. Your models are really "alive"

Keep them coming

Martin

Very nice indeed ---and almost ---almost !!--makes me want to do mine as a b-b :-) :-)
Terrifice !!!
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

Nice bit of painting mate...recognise this now, we have one of these as a gate guardian at my camp. One of our predesesor regiments went ashore in these on D-Day.

Frank, excellent paint job! I think I would have left the either left the mud off to show off the paint job, or carried it through to the wheels and tracks.

Your photos are some of the clearest I've seen on the net. What type of camera are you using.

That was my question exactly. What kind of Camera
C'mon Frank, give it up.

Looking great, still waiting on mine from HLJ. I think its tied up at customs!

Thanks kindly for the comments,....

Mark M., Cary W. I use a Nikon D70S with a SB600 speedlight, on a tripod..... and no, I'm not happy with my results. The photos I tend to take all have a heavy contrast look which is not present in the finished model. It really tends to overstate the pre-shading and post-shading. As far as the quality of the photos, you are way too generous,... have you not noticed the horrid stringy dust spot on all of my photos?!? . A word of advice, buy one good quality macro lense for your camera and leave it on the body, I have had all sorts of trouble since I purchased additional lenses for the D70S, everytime I change lenses, I get dust spots.

Philippe This is the A34 Comet from Bronco, a relative new company which has given allied modellers a reason to smile, it is a great model! The Comets served late in the war (late 44 and 45) the decals give you alternate parts and decals for post war versions, Finnish and British.

Richard I use Tamiya and Polly Scale acrylics and I tend to apply the paint in thinned out mists of pre-shading and post-shading, about 60 to 70% thinner (Tamiya).

Martin I agree with you on the too artistic presentation, I need to give the model some additional weathering to offset the 'glamour' look, I plan on applying scratches throughout the model and throwing on some stowage.

Owen, Alan As far as fit issues are concerned, my copy had some warpage on the top rear hull, enough that I had to make some internal braces for the top hull to sit flush and true. The gun does not fit into the breach as is. You have to remove about 8 to 10mm off the end to make it sit properly in the mantlet, and yes Owen, my photos are way too contrasty, I need to learn how to use my camera!

Matt I do plan on throwing some stowage on, helmets, tarps, flimsy cans, gas tanks, and ammo boxes.

Max The Comets where not around for D-Day, I think you are thinking of the Cromwell, which is very similar and participated in the landings.

Frank

I'm no photo expert Frank but the D70 is a good camera.

1) The best way to take pics is in normal dyalight. Set the film speed to 200, and the white balance to sunlight or cloudy, or if indoors set for whatever kind of lightbulb you are using.

Put the camera on a tripod!

Set the camera to manual and use the narrowest aperture, slow shutter speed, (highest F stop, eg F32, 6 - 10 second exposure) setting. The camera will tell you when the exposure time is correct.

Or the much easier way:
using "AV" Aperture Priority, set the narrowest aperture, eg F32. The camera will select the correct exposure for Fstop and lighting. Note: A tripod is generally required for these exposures.

Switch to Timer mode, press the trigger and step back. The 10 second timer will allow the camera to steady from any movement of yours. This will eliminate any camera shake as you press the trigger (shutter release)

Don't use flash, it fills and colours too much.

Have a look on the photography forum for tips.

2) Any photo shop should sell a blower for cleaning your camera. It's basically a big soft-ish rubber bulb with a hole at the end of a tube. Point tube into camera and squeeze blower. If the blower wont shift the dust then you can use a very, very SOFT brush very, very carefully.

For both to work, the shutter release must be set to "B" or Bulb. This will keep the Shutter open for as long as you keep the trigger down. DON'T let it go while the brush or blower is in the camera body or it may kill the camera.

That is an awesome work. Perfet amount of weathering, beatifull pre-shading. I just love it.

Great job.

Awesome Build with a quality paint job Love it Nice one


redleg

Frank,
thats one hell of a job in positive thoughts.
I like it very much and hope to make mine just as good as yours.
Not started with it yet , first i have to finish my SWS (Schwere Whermacht Schlepper) from Italeri.
Cheers and keep on going mate
043