Armor/AFV: Contests
This group is home to our various contests, promotions and drawings.
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DragonAMOM - Sticky
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2006 - 05:09 AM UTC
Cheers Redleg, not hard to do, just takes practice.
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 12:15 AM UTC
Ok update time. I have applied the camo using Tamiya Dark Yellow. I then post-shaded this with a mix of Buff and Dark Yellow.







wbill76
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 12:37 AM UTC
Nice work on the camo pattern John, it's got that "underwater" ripple type look to it.
biffa
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Tennessee, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 12:47 AM UTC
wow awesome camo job sticky it really sets this one of perfectly cant wait to see it altogether and weathered, this kit just got on my want list.
Ironmike
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California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 01:02 AM UTC
Nice work, John. The rear area looks great, cable and pintle and such. Nice work on the muffler also.
You will have to let us see the finished product.
I am curious about the track, it sure looks terrific. Indivdual links, no doubt. Nice droop on the return wheels.
Ironmike
MonkeyGun
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England - North East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 02:27 AM UTC
Another masterpiece in the making John

Ian
WingTzun
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 04:17 AM UTC
OK John, Could you just screw something up so I know that your human? :-) :-) :-)
Definately another masterpiece in progress.
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2006 - 05:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

OK John, Could you just screw something up so I know that your human?



David I did mess up on this, and it glaringly obvious to me, and I am going ot go back and fix it. If you look at the 2nd to last pic above I over shot my camo on the fender, now I am going to have to reshoot grey before proceeding. The reason it happened was I had the airbrush at too much of an angle - it was late, I was tired, and I am human!
Sticky
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Posted: Thursday, August 10, 2006 - 11:09 PM UTC
Ok more progress pics!







Clanky44
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 15, 2005
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 06:11 AM UTC
Great work on your Pz38(t) John! The fine quality of your hand painted details finds me trying to duplicate your style, especially your rust techniques.

Thanks for the inspiration.....

Frank
WingTzun
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 07:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

it was late, I was tired, and I am human!



Yeah, I guess it's like a friend explained to me when we were building his house: "Do you know what is the sifference between an average carpenter and a good one? The good one can hide is screw ups".

Very realistic rusted muffler/ fenders and tools!
I do admire your work.
As usual, looking forward to seeing more.
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 05:55 PM UTC
Thanks guys.
jlmurc
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 06:04 PM UTC
John,

Progress is fabulous as ever, one small question, Could you explain the technique that you have used on the exhaust box as it looks really great?

Thanks,

John
Sticky
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 07:43 PM UTC
Cheers John, here is what to do:

As you may recal the muffler was given a stippled coat of Mr. Surfacer 500. This gives a bit more texture than supplied in the kit. I then "banged" it up with an x-acto blade and gave it a base coat of Vallejo German Grey. When this was set I applied a layer of turpinod, then just started dabing on burnt umber, and raw siena oil paints, then more turpinod, then some black oil paint, kinda letting it do its own thing. When set I took some Polly Scale rust - this is acrylic and very orange and with an old splayed brush just dabbed it about. I then gave it a burnt umber wash, then hit the dents with a raw siena pin wash. Presto!

WingTzun
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 10:21 PM UTC
You make it sound so simple and easy John. Makes me think I can do it too.:-)
Did you do the same with the fender edges?
Also, I remember you having some difficulty airbrushing the Vallejo paints. Is that still the case or did you come up with a solution?
FingersEddie
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, August 11, 2006 - 11:08 PM UTC
John, this is real fine work! I'm likin' this so much! You've jus' given me a great idea on usin' Mr. Surfacer 500 to finely texture the chassis and lower hull on my Sd.Kfz.222!

I like your rust technique too, great stuff!
Sticky
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 05:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You make it sound so simple and easy John. Makes me think I can do it too.:-)
Did you do the same with the fender edges?
Also, I remember you having some difficulty airbrushing the Vallejo paints. Is that still the case or did you come up with a solution?




Thanks guys for the comments.

David yes I use the same technique for the rust on the fenders, just no black or siena oils, just the burnt umber and poly scale. I brush painted the Vallejo on the muffler - I have given up on using it in the airbrush.
Sticky
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 09:40 AM UTC
Ok More Progress, I have given it a spot coat of future, applied the decals, then flat coated the whole thing. I have also started to muck up the lower half!







wbill76
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 09:31 PM UTC
Coming along nicely John. What are you using to produce the mud effect?
Sticky
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 10:33 PM UTC
Hello Bill. The mud is a mixture of Pigments, Tamiya flat base and acrylic matt media. I then dipped a tooth brush in the mix and flicked it on to the kit and all over my workbench too!

Here is where I am now. I have buffed out the lower hull and road wheels to get it dusty. I have also blown the axle seals. I applied some india ink to the wheels while spinning them in the moto tool. I did some before the buff coat, then went over some again after. This way some were fixed but stains remain, and others are leaking again since the accumulation of dust.








Genetk44
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: March 17, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, August 12, 2006 - 11:11 PM UTC
John....thats looking better and better, if thats possible....the mud is incredible!
were blown seals a common problem with these tanks? BTW...I just noticed that you are in Vermont....I'm in Montreal and Sutton, just north of Richford...guess we're neighbours..sort of :-)
Cheers
Gene
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Vermont, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 13, 2006 - 04:21 AM UTC
Hi Gene, thanks for commenting, I appreciate it. I am about an hour from Newport, so not so far away!
kefran
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Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, August 20, 2006 - 05:44 AM UTC
Hey John !

very nice work (as usual from you my friend !) but i'm kinda worrying about one thing : this is not a Stug III ! are you ill ???

great painting and weathering work mate ! makes me thinking of getting back to my workbench !
Tapper
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Alabama, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 20, 2006 - 05:56 AM UTC
Hi!

I jsut popped in to say how much I am enjoying this thread! your model is quite stunning and I'd also like to say how much I appreciate a good photographer such as yourself. all of your photos are nice and crisp with excellent detail!

I cant wait to see more!
Sticky
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Posted: Sunday, August 20, 2006 - 06:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey John !

very nice work (as usual from you my friend !) but i'm kinda worrying about one thing : this is not a Stug III ! are you ill ???

great painting and weathering work mate ! makes me thinking of getting back to my workbench !




Cheers Tapper and Franck!

Long time no talk Franck! I know its not a StuG, those are being worked on too. Pat needed this ASAP, so I jumped right on it. I forgot to post finished pics in this thread, so here they are: