I am new to using MIG Pigments, and I am a little nervouse about using them for my first time. My understanding is that I am to dip my brush into the jar of pigments, and then gently dab the pigments onto the model? Is this correct? I don't really want to ruin my Cromwell. I do have some tanks that I would not mind practising on, but I still don't want to cause unnessecary damage to my collection of armour.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to methods that I should use? Perhaps a photograph or two to augment any readings?
Also, how good are Tamiya weathering sticks? Are they easy to use?

Hi Mike,

For weathering I use a reallly soft brush and kinda dust them on letting them settle in what I hope are the natural places dust would settle!!!

You can use them with water, mud and lots of other stuff, just mix them in.

Probably a good gude it 'a little goes a long way' - you can add more later if you need to, and you can rub them in for larger areas. I usually work light to dark as I movel down the model (Top to Botom).

Sorry I'm no expert but there is an article on site about using them which you might like to read up on. Just have a look under features and painting and it should be there.

Hope this helps.

Al

Mike,

There are many methodes of application and we all discover new twists each time you have a go or pick up a book. With regard to applying the pigments, when applied dry it is difficult to ruin a model as you can brush them off with a stiffer brush, this can be effective on wet applications once they have fully dried. I would say have a parctice on an old model, or a childs toy truck/car/tank etc.

These are various web addresses that might help you.

http://www.migproductions.com/paginas%20products/pigments.htm
http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw05.htm

The last is by Mig himself and I would say is worth the ink to print.

Regards,

John

Thanks so much!

So long as I do not use a mixture of pigments and turpentine (as the articles by the founder of MIG Productions dictates) over an oil-based paint, there will be no stripping, right? Some of my washes are a mixture of enamel paints and white spirits, and some are a mix of acrylic paints and Windex (many people don't like to do this, but I have found the perfect forumla to give beatiful finishes!).

Mike,

Well it is always a little like walking on thin ice, using white spirits as the wetting agent with pigments or further washes/filters over enamel paints, many times as long as the paint has been allowed to cure properly, many days, I have gotten away with it, but then again on the model, I have had an issue with blistering in areas. Now normally I work soley with acrylics, but whatever paints used as pigments work best with a matt finnish which allows the pigments to grip better, I always prepare the surface with a coat of flat/matt acrylic varnish......polyscale, acrylix etc.
Dont forget to mask off areas like periscopes, lamps, mirrors that are naturally glossy, or you have to re-gloss them again after, which can be a real pain.

Hope this helps

John

Hi guys

On the subject of pigments. Can anyone tell me, do you apply these before or after the final dullcoat application. Does the dullcoat affect the appearance of the pigments?

Thanks in advance

Tim.

I think the dulcote takes just the slightest 'edge' off of it, but not much. I have a 1/72 F-15 unbuilt that I just shot the wings and fuse upper/lower halves with a topcoat so I have plenty to practice on. I was going to try some MM metalizer sealer too. The F-15 is looking pretty rough let me tell you, definatately the rustiest one you'll ever see :-)

Tim,

I have found and have seen it said of others that applying a dullcoat over the top of the pigments will lose much of the effect as it tends to meld them altogether.

I have always since used them over the top of the pollyscale flat that I use.

John

Most people apply a dull coat with the aim of sealing the whole weathering process so that it can withstand the test of time however as already mention, this does take away the original look and feel of it.

To make it stick, i apply some turpentine onto the service and then place some pigments over it. When the turpentine dries up, it gives a very realistic dry mud look.

you only need a light dusting of flat clear, not an actual layer. Just like you use a fixative spray to seal a pencil drawing.