ok if you remeber the my m10 topic i couldn't work the camrea very well but now i have found the book and i can ork it better

also my decals are staring to silver will i have to apply a clear coat to lock it in or wil just brushing te decal solution work?

pls post tips







airbrushed with testores OD and painted with tamiya piants

come on 40 views n no replys

you tank looks really good.
but there are some things u can do.
take some thread and tie down all the gear
on the back of the tank.
and make it a little more dirty
u did a great job

waht bout the decals will i have to puta clear coat or will decal solution be enuff

Still a bit of camera shake there you might try resting the camera on something while you take the photos.
Your Sherman looks good; here are a couple of tips. The rear idler wheel didn't have a tire it was solid steel so the rim shouldn't be black. The stowage on the turret looks as if it's being held on by magic. If you don't want to add tie downs or the steel bars that some Shermans had welded to them then maybe leave the stowage off.
The tools look a bit bright - try adding a bit of black or dark brown to your steel colour.
For you decal problem I would try the decal setting solution on one of the decals and see what happens.

As for getting forty views and no replies -maybe those forty people couldn't help. Also some people are funny, they won't reply to a post with bad spelling.
I type my posts in Word and then spell check them so it mightn't hurt to go back and edit your top post.

All in all a very good job on your Sherman. As for the decals, you might try a decal setting solution. Also decals will silver sometimes when applied to a matt or flat paint surface because of the rough texture of the flat paints.

nd the wheal what color do ipiant it?
olive or steal?

The rear idler should be OD, whethered suitably. As for the decals, at this point you can really only try decal setting solution and hope it's good enough since you didnt Future the surface before applying. I believe it will be fine with just the decal set.

One last thing. The equipment on the turret has not been attached to anything. The packs, boxes and other gear is usually tied to bars (which are not included in the kit) on the outer turret. It's a common mistake as the instructions show the equipment attached directly to the turret.

I suggest using Solvaset or MicroSol first. Once you clear coat the setting solutions will not be much help.

yeah i for got to tell u put a coat of clear flat
use pollyscale flat clear its arclyirc
it wont hurt the paint just brush it on

ok unsure if u can see it but i added a piecs of wire on to the turret

Gday A.jnr
Never sit on a post waiting for a reply! Get about the rest of
the site and see what's out there, and help others if you can, and before you know it you go back and check and voila! Replys!
The handles you have attached look really accurate... Great job!
You can stand the oilcan (on the front right fender) up and run some fine thread around the can and through the headlight guard... One way to approach how things were attached is to say to yourself " Now, what is there that I can attach this rope to? It can't interfere with the operation of the tank in any way... Also, it has to be secure enough that when at top speed over rough ground it won't be shaken loose..."
Does this help? Think like you are a crewman of the tank...
This tank carries the same markings as their 1/35 'frontline breakthrough' M4A3. This one served in the Ardennes during the Battle of the Bulge. It took a hit on the topedge of the left side (above the rear of the bucking bronco) and also the right side which removed the 'Ca' leaving just 'ballero' on the vehicle name, and had to be repaired...
For future reference there were two parallel horizontal bars (like capital E's) on each side of the turret, over both stars...(one above the other)
Overall though, if you keep going at this rate you'll be world class in a few years!
Cheers
Brad

thanks for those tips

I'm sorry if that wire was already there. I couldn't see it in the blurry pics. Might I make a suggestion? My digital camera is not so good with closeups either. I hae learned that if you stand back and zoom in you will get shots more clear than if you stand closer with the same frame.

Time to weather it up. The washes and dry brushing will sometimes help cover any decal silvering. The track return rollers should be a steel colour just like the rear idlers. Good job so far, the picture taking can take some time to master. Keep at it.

whats a track return roller?

no the wire was just added

The return rollers are those small wheels that touch the upper part of the track (best way to think of them is that they return the track to the front of the tank). I'm not entirely sure from the pictures, but I think you have the return rollers painted the right color (entirely olive drab). Now you just need to weather them and the read idler by simulating worn-off paint with a steel color.

I feel your pain regarding the decal silvering. When I was starting out (I was about your age) I used to have that problem all the time. I finally read in a modeling how-to book that you can largely avoid the problem by spraying a clear gloss coat on your model before putting the decals on. You can then use decal solution to make the decals conform better to the raised details and bumps in the model. Once you're done decaling, just spray a clear flat coat on to get rid of the shiny surface.

Testors makes several gloss and flat coats in both enamels and acrylics. You can buy them in a can, which is handy (that's what I'm using now, since I don't yet have an airbrush).

Your model is looking sharp, by the way. Did you airbrush the color, use a spray can, or paint it with a brush? From the pictures, it looks like you did a bang-up job with whatever method you used. Keep it up!

I must say I'm glad to see folks like you starting out with the hobby--I myself am starting back up after being away from modeling for ten years. I stopped modeling during college and only now got back into it.

i airbrushed testiors enamel paints and painted the ammo boxes and many of the details in tamiya acrilyics and covered the whole thing in a can of clear paint to provide a uniform color